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Can an exhaust pipe be "epoxied"?

First the background...the vehicle is a 93 Nissan Quest minivan, 6 cyl engine, with an exhaust leak.

It has about 270K miles on it, and living on borrowed time, so putting in $500 to replace pipes is not very cost-wise. Yet I don't want exhuast fumes coming up & I'll have to pass the state's DEQ soon.

The leak is directly above the heat-shield, on the top side of the pipe that comes down from the manifold located nearest the firewall, right next to the junction with the pipe that comes down from the front manifold.

I already tried one of those "muffler-wraps", but it didn't seem to hold. (the diameter of the piece at that point is two "pipes" wide)

So, who here has made a "fix" such as this work? (I'm thinking no more than a year before I send the Quest to the auto-recycle)...I'm particularly interested in hearing what type of epoxy or putty or glue will hold up exaust temperatures (before it hits the catalytic converter).

If you can recommend a commercial product that you have found to work, or any success/failure experience you have had in this area, great.

TIA,

Stan.

Reply to
Stan
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"Stan" wrote

Is the pipe straight at that point, or is it curving or changing diameter?

Maybe try the original muffler wrap or "cement" goop, then a tin can or a short piece of parts-store exhaust pipe, cut lengthwise into a "C" shape (stronger than a tin can), and hose clamps to hold it all together?

Reply to
MasterBlaster

JB Weld for exhaust systems may be the only thing that might work but it sounds too hot for even that. Can't you get someone with a TIG or MIG welder to fix it? If it's cracked, drill holes at the end of the crack first before welding.

Reply to
CraigFL

Find some "Pyro-Putty". It's good for very high temps...

Reply to
Bob Johnstone

my experience with trying to patch Y pipes that close to the engine is muffler cement anything won't hold.

The only fix for that is replacing it or welding the hole shut, but I can almost guarantee the whole pipe is effectively rotten and the more you try patching it, the more you'll end up replacing.

Also, if you're trying to fix it to pass an inspection, you'll probably find that they won't pass a muffler cement-beer can-hose clamp fix anyway.

Sorry.

Ray

Reply to
Ray

The key is that you need to clean the area THOROUGHLY, the way the directions on the material says. That means at least sandpaper, maybe a grinder and file as well. You should see bright metal on all places where you are applying the wrap.

There are many epoxies that will work, and so will high temperature RTV but they won't work if the area isn't perfectly clean. Buy whatever your local auto parts store has, and polish the area.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

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