Oil Everywhere!

Has it done this previously? If not, I would suspect that the crankcase ventilation system is not working...there should be a section of braided rubber hose from the oil filler to the air cleaner, make sure it is hooked up and isn't plugged.

Make sure you haven't overfilled the engine with oil, and perhaps check the fuel pump..if the oil smells like gasoline you can assume that the fuel pump has failed or you have a carburetor problem that is dumping raw fuel into the engine and diluting the oil.

Chris

If all else fails, check the case where the oil cooler mounts for cracks. I just discovered where my big leak is coming from yesterday. Time for another set of cases and an engine build.

Any suggestions for good torque at low rpm's? I've read that single port with a single carb should help the low rpm torque, any other suggestions?

Les

turbo....

Let's try this again, any suggestions for a budget build?

Les

again...turbo!!

Your idea of low budget and mine are different. I bet I could by a rebuilt engine cheaper than I could buy a turbo. I'd still need to build an engine. The goal is to get the car back up and running, not make it so expensive that it won't happen.

Also, wouldn't a turbo be better for higher rpm's? Most of my off-road is idle to just off idle rock crawling with some 4x4's.

Unless someone had a free turbo, that's out of the question for my build.

Les

turbos are like any other part... you can find them economically if you look.... turbos can add greatly to higher rpms, if thats what you build the engine for.... turbo engines are great at producing high torque at lower rpms, and that's why they are a favorite of low revving diesel manufacturers.... even my wife's mazda puts out it's max torque at only

2500rpms (258LB/FT at 2500 rpm.... Mazda CX-7, 2.3L turbocharged engine).... it's all in what you want... i built my little turbo engine cheaply and with new parts...the new engine (2275 Turbo/EFI) is a different story....

What about building a Type 2 2.0 engine and putting it in a Baja? I was just offered one that's apart, machine work done, just needs built. The price is very good, I don't think I could get machine work done for what he wants.

Les

that's a type 4 engine... very good engine, especially in a baja.... very torquey in a light bug and will take a beating because it's built to push a heavy bus around... and in a baja you don't even have to worry about time or expense(two different approaches, one converting yourself, and one buying parts made for the conversion) to convert to the upright cooling that a bug usually has.... search a bit on here and thesamba for "type 4 conversion".... hell Janet may come along and throw in his two cents on it, he's done it...

I figure with that engine and the 002 trans I have sitting in the garage, I'll be ready to tackle some tougher trails. About the only other upgrade I'd like to do is out of my price range... A locking differential.

Les

after all these years, you are finally telling me i had the name wrong? damn...

i've seen(IE not done) several type 4 baja's in stock type 4 configuration... seems with the rear caging most folks use at the rear of baja's there usually enough room.... again, no personal experience...

me likes me a turbo...

Janet.. lol.. it's Jannifer :)

Anyways, I converted my T4 myself with the help of the Joe Cali T4 conversion manual.

I wouldn't run a non-converted T4 in a baja, the rear of the engine hangs out so much further than a T1, with the cooling shroud taking so much space. Also the exhaust pipes rob ground clearance, since they mount on the underside of the heads. If welding and metal fabrication is not a problem, then a T4 would be a maybe. Parts for them are still more expensive than for T1.

Back to the turbo idea... a turbo really is the most economical way to get noticeably more power from any engine. In theory, you don't need to change much of anything in the engine itself, just bolt on the turbo and make sure you give it enough fuel at all times. A small turbo will start making boost at very low rpms, which would work in a Baja.

Of course, I wouldn't bolt on a turbo on a non-rebuilt and non-optimized engine, I would do it right and do BOTH, which is why I still don't have one. ($$$) :D

Exactly why it's out of the question for me. My goal is to get the car back up and running ASAP. I'd be happy with a stock 1600 at this point, but try finding one cheap around here (Tulsa, Oklahoma).

I've got one last thing to try on the current engine before giving up on it completely. It may be a waste of time and money, but it's worth the $15 to give it a try. Alumaloy is supposed to work with Magnesium, as well as aluminum. As soon as mine arrives, I'll see if it really works like they claim.

I've heard of sleeving the oil passage with brass tubes to help prevent seeping, I'll put that in after I use the Alumaloy. I'm going to relocate the oil cooler to take some stress off of the repaired area also.

Les

I don't have a rear cage yet. Probably gonna build one, I have a couple of local guys that have hydraulic benders. One of the guys does major suspension mods on 4x4's.

I need to do something before I start seeing what it'd take to put this engine in the Baja...

Not sure the bus trans would be geared low enough for this one to push me thru the trails.

Les

Les,

The stock VW engine in proper running form has a nice bottom end pull. Most of the bugs I've driven have lacked bottom end torque because the owners did not understand the importance of the carburetor heating system, a functional vacuum advance distributor, and a proper tune-up.

A stock bug is a stump puller with the stock camshaft. If you want it to run 'right' you need to put everything back the way VW intended. Ensure that the intake heating system is working. Overhaul the carburetor and make sure the jets are correct, make sure the vacuum advance on the distributor works, then do the basic stuff...set your mixture, timing, idle speed, valves, points, fan belt tension, and so on.

Properly tuned, an old VW doesn't have to run like "an old VW". It can (and will) run just like a modern car. I have no problem barking the tires in my 74 super, and it's 100% stock. Seeing a bug squeal the tires turns a lot of heads ;-)

If I can offer you any advice, it would be to look for Bob Hoover's sermons. There is a literal wealth of information in there if you will take the time to read and understand what Bob has to say. I can tell you that everything he's told me I've been able to take to the bank. It works, try it for yourself.

Good luck with it.

Chris

I have the current 1776 running very well, just can't keep oil in it due to the cracked case at the oil cooler mount.

A stock Bug being a stump puller is fine, until you take it off-road with 31/10.50-15 tires on all 4 corners. As far as squealing the tires, my 1776 would do that with the big tires.

Problem is, the trails I take it on don't allow for heavy acceleration. The best trails (most fun) are all 1st gear, with a lot of clutch action. The bus trans might help take some of the clutching out, due to the lower gears.

What works best on the street is seldom best for off-road. I'll give up some on the road performance for better off-road capability.

Les

you have that right Chris.... and the car's rear jerking out sideways while smoking the tires after grabbing second gear will make them do a double take...... not that i condone that kind of behaviour....