92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

in addition to the holding tool, i highly recommend a 3/4" breaker bar with [most importantly] the 3/4" extension. like you, i recently tried replacing my timing belt without air tools, and with a normal 1/2" drive, i thought i was for sure going to break something. with the 3/4" tools however, that bolt came loose immediately & without undue effort. [it was disapointing in a way because i'd even gone to the trouble of buying a 5' "torque amplifier" just in case!] anyway, i wondered if i'd perhaps loosened it with my 1/2" drive efforts earlier, but i did my other civic a couple of weeks later & again, the bolt came loose immediately with the 3/4" drive. very worthwhile investment. the 3/4" extension bar is nearly 1" diameter solid tool steel. no torque-robbing wind-up in that puppy!

Reply to
jim beam
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When car shopping last month, I was told by the Acura saleman, that you had to change the oil for the TSX, every 10,000 miles. (!)

I own a 94 Honda Accord I-4 (4 cyl) , and if I recall, Honda said I only have to change the oil (on my VTEC engine) every 6,000 miles (but I usually do it more frequently).

(I'm simplifying of course, leaving out the # of months)

I agree it seems every 3,000 miles is the general rule for cars in general.

Reply to
Steve

snipped-for-privacy@posyrorer.mailshell.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

Not that hard. You just have to be very detail-oriented and do lots of reading first. You can start here:

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and for a pictorial howto,
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Also an excellent idea is to buy the Helm manual and study the procedures given there. Helm really is the very best.
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Personally, I used a 250lb electric impact wrench rented for $10/day from an industrial supply place. 30 seconds of back-and-forth and the bolt buzzed right off. I was surprised it was so easy; not all of them are.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

"jim beam" wrote snip

Can you clarify? Do you mean you used a 3/4" drive socket, too? Or did you use an adapter to go from the 3/4" drive extension to 1/2" socket?

Reply to
Elle

3/4" > 1/2" adapter. also worth mention is that the 17mm-1/2" socket i have snugly fits the hole in the holding tool - helps keep everything in place.
Reply to
jim beam

The power locks and windows in my integra won?t work when my drivers door is open. They used to not work at all all of a sudden for some reason. I pull the ECU fuse and put it back in and it reset the computer and everything worked fine but the locks and windows still don?t work when the door is open. Any one know what?s wrong?

Reply to
Trasky

(Trying to avoid the undying "oil change frequency" thread) Go for it - to each their own. This has become a very controversial issue, with recommendations from reputable sources running the gamut of 3K to 15K miles. I follow the owner's manual for each vehicle, myself, figuring they know better than I do.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

"jim beam" wrote E wrote Re loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt on Hooooooondas --

Then excellent tip.

Anyone want to buy a 1/2" drive breaker bar and two ten-inch long, 1/2" drive extenders?

Shucks, I likely will only do one more timing belt change on my beloved 1991 Civic anyway. I'll just buy better health insurance for the period that will include when I do the job.

Reply to
Elle

but elle, you'll end up buying another honda, maybe even the new crx when it comes out, so you may as well buy the tool you /know/ you crave... cheaper than the health insurance too!

Reply to
jim beam

Ah, but changing the oil is simply cheap insurance.

If the manual says 6000 miles, and you do it at 3000 miles, you're not harming the car.

What's more worrisome is when they specify an oil change interval based on the marketing department's desire to show a car that's cheaper to maintain, rather than an engineering recommendation.

Reply to
Elmo P. Shagnasty

Ha ha. :-)

I have my eye on the Toyota Echo as my next car. (I don't think I'll buy anything with an engine larger than 1.5 Liter.) But, hey, do the 2005 Honda Civics have the same nasty crankshaft bolt setup?

I've been presuming the last several years that whatever new car I buy is going to be very different from my old 1991 Civic. VTEC, maybe no distributor, etc.

Reply to
Elle

G104 and G402 are ground connections. Search some more in the book and you should find a picture of where they actually connect to the car frame. The ground wires usually end in an eyelet that screwed into the car body. Take those screws out, clean up the connection and put them back and you will usually fix any ground problems.

But first ... I assume you have already checked the related fuses before ripping out the ICU?

Reply to
E. Meyer

Junk yard?

Reply to
E. Meyer

Trasky wrote in news:1_532303 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

why would the ECU have anything to do with your power door locks or power windows? ECU= engine control unit;runs the fuel injection system and related components.

Maybe the wiring harness that goes to the driver's door is being pinched or has been cut,or is pulling a connector loose when the door is open.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

"Trasky" wrote: > The power locks and windows in my integra won't work when my > drivers door is open. They used to not work at all all of a > sudden for some reason. I pull the ECU fuse and put it back > in and it reset the computer and everything worked fine but > the locks and windows still don't work when the door is open. > Any one know what's wrong?

Nevermind, turns out one of the wires in the door hinge section was frayed.

Reply to
Trasky

Has anyone installed an after factory radio on a Legend with the bose system? I'm being told that the speakers will also need to be replaced because they have a built in amp that only works with the factory radio.

I would like to replace just the radio, with a radio that plays MP3s and keep my existing speakers.

Any help would be appreciated. Gil

Reply to
gil

You are correct on one thing - it depends on who is doing the work.

I have a '93 Legend Sedan (auto also so this is a little different from what you are looking at), but I love it. I only wish I could use mid-grade in it instead of premium gas. I've tried mid twice but it was too damn noisy to live with.

Just crossed 112K miles recently and no major problems. Replaced the boots, timing belts etc.

Timing belt, water pump etc (the whole standard repair deal) came to a little over $700 at a local acura dealer. If I had the time to take it across town I could have had it done for just a little over $500 at a shop that specializes in Hondas and Acuras, but it not a dealer.

Reply to
oskiller

5k difference? I priced an 05 Accord EX with Leather at our local dealer -- 26k firm. Made my 01 Prelude look good for a long time.
Reply to
TWW

I think just about all cars have the stubborn crankshaft bolt. Most cars can be done with the "bump the starter" technique, but I did it once on a Toyota and it was pretty scary.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

Actually, Hondas are the only make I know of where oil changes take their toll on the engine... or more specifically, the oil drain pan threads. The ones I've worked on seem to gradually consume the threads with each change, eventually requiring a new pan or oversized drain bolt.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

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