92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

I hate Toyota. Please don't buy their crap.

Oh thank you mike; that's way MORE than enough to convince me not to even think about attempting it myself! I've changed belts in other devices (like washing machines) and thought "Hey, how hard can it be to change a belt....".

The timing belt broke while driving (about 35 mph). It has never been replaced in 16 years and 102,000 miles. I cannot get the bolt off the bottom pulley. It comes off counter-clockwise, right? I made a tool to hold the crank pulley and tried to take off the bolt. But it won't break loose. Any ideas? Can the valves hit the piston when the belt breaks?

thanks, Mike

I think we've been over this before. I'm pretty sure it was the Echo's price and I think better fuel mileage that still makes me lean its way. Or I can't get a Scion where I live easily? Can't remember.

Scion xA 32/37 mpg xB 31/34

Echo 35/42

Anyway, I'm aiming for around four more years on my Civic. It's doing pretty well now that I have it out West, away from those northern winters and all that road salt. As I've said many a time now.

Yes

My blower motor went out and after buying a new one and trying to instal it I have been told something about a kick panel (uncer hood) and a relay switch. I have no idea where either of these are located. Any help out there?

"carl1962" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

The "kick panel" is probably just the sort-of-triangular plastic panel that's just ahead of the passenger's door, under the dash. It just snaps off. There's nothing under there for the blower anyway, so you shouldn't have to touch that.

You do need to remove the knee bolster, though.

What's wrong that you needed to pull the motor? They don't usually break. It's usually the blower resistor that fails.

My 98 Integra is overheating at idling, but immediately cools down when driving. I am going to flush the antifreeze, change the thermostat, and perhaps the water pump. Where are these items located under the hood? Any suggestions as to my diagnosis? Thanks.

Your fans are running when they are supposed to?

"jmrodriguez777" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Change the thermostat,use a real ACURA TS,not an aftermarket replacement. It's at the front of the block,to the left of the distributor.The housing also has a coolant temp sensor.One of the radiator hoses goes to the housing. It's hard to get at one of the 2 bolts holding the housing on.You also have to bleed the air out using a bleed port on the right side of the distributor.

The water pump is a tough (major)job,requires removal of the timing belt cover,you may want to replace the belt at the same time,if over 60K miles on the motor.I'd do the thermostat first,see if that fixes your cooling problem.It did on my 94 GSR,same symptoms.

$20 bucks will buy you a Haynes manual at your local PepBoys,Advance Discount Auto Parts,or AutoZone,it has pictures and instructions.

There are also procedures for testing the cooling fans,fan relays,etc.

"jmrodriguez777" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Check your coolant level at the rad. What you say sound suspiciously like low coolant.

If at idle it starts to overheat and you then rev it, does the gauge go back down?

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Once the drain tubes are clear, this is the remedy one of the regulars in the alt.autos.volvo group just reposted:

************************************************** Non-toxic A/C System Cleaner

Mold, mildew and fungus growth in automotive A/C systems is a common problem, especially when the air intake control is regularly set to "recirculate" or "Max A/C". There are commercial cleaners available that can control the problem, but I have yet to locate one that isn't both moderately toxic and strong-smelling. Since I'm somewhat sensitive to noxious odors and to chemicals like ammonia, I have developed an easy to mix, non-toxic alternative that, for me at least, works as well as or better than the commercial products. In the interest of a less-toxic environment and as a public service, I am posting it.

Materials Needed:

Clean adjustable spray bottle, preferably 24oz or smaller.

Cheap vodka

Apple cider vinegar

It is probably possible to use white wine vinegar, but I haven't tried it. Feel free to experiment, at your own risk. Mix the two ingredients in the bottle: three or four parts vodka to one part cider vinegar.

Application:

With the recirculate control set to "fresh", the ventilation fan on medium, all windows open ,and the engine and A/C running, spray generous amounts of the mixture into all of the outside air intakes. These intakes are usually located at the base of the windshield. If the system is already seriously moldy, wait a minute, set the air intake control to "recirculate" or "Max A/C", and spray the mixture into the air recirculate intake, usually located above the front passenger footwell, or sometimes behind the glovebox. Let the A/C and fan run for another minute or two, then switch off first the A/C, then the engine. The car will smell strongly of vinegar for an hour or two, but I find this to be both far preferable to the smell of the commercial cleaners and shorter-lived. Leave the windows open a little when finished, if possible. Like commercial cleaners, one application may not be enough, so I suggest weekly applications until the problem is gone, then preventative treatment once a month during warm weather.

Precautions:

This formula is non-toxic, but not completely harmless. Use common sense when applying it. That means not getting the spray in eyes, nose or open wounds, and not applying it with people or animals in the vehicle. Depending on the proportions (and again like some commercial products) the mixture may be flammable, so don't apply it while smoking or near any combustion source.

As with the commercial cleaners, remove any residue from painted and/or plastic surfaces after application, as it may harm the finish.

Finally, don't drive the vehicle until the vapor has dissipated; not only is there a slight potential for intoxication, there is also the possibility that this cleaner can produce a false positive on a police breath alcohol analyzer.

Copyright 2001, by Michael Cerkowski. Distribute freely, but do not modify.

A little better, maybe, due to lower profile tires and suspension tuning, but the Accord is pretty good too y'know, and they are still pretty much clones of each other.

My four-banger Accord has a J* VIN, which means made in Japan.

J.

Hi, I have Integra 1993 with 1.8 engine and automatic trans. What rpm should be if car is running at 60 m/hr ? Thanks, Leo

You may have heard it here first, but at 153K miles, the ICU in my

92 Vigor went. I no longer have intermittent wipers, rear window defrost, seatbelt chimes, headlight on alarm, overhead lights, side turn signals, etc. The Manual shows the means to trouble shoot, which I did and there are no bad fuses or grounding connections. The only thing left is the multi-function "silver box". It doesn't affect the roadability of the car and the only thing I'll miss is the rear window defroster. Dealer stuff, in this case, is out of the question. Nothing comes up on a web search. Anyone have any idea where I can find one? thx

Bob Johnstone wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:

A wrecking yard.

Or

My 90 has 175K miles and the engine is still strong and uses no oil. Very comfortable, rides nice and handles great for a car this size. Best car I've ever owned.

The older Legends are now 18 years old. The newest ones are 10 years old. They will be more reliable than most cars their age, but they are still getting pretty long in the tooth.