92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

If I change the wires after a year, do you think it will be OK?

Actually, to correct my previous post, the coil already got killed by use of aftermarket wires that lasted approx 2 years and killed the coil, as you say. The mechanic has now replaced the coil with a non-OEM part, in fact the coil, distributor, cap, and wires are all non-OEM at this point in time.

I went ahead and gave them the go-ahead. They called back later and said that the rotors were gone and could not be resurfaced. They wanted an additional $500 something for the rotor replacement. After I complained about the rotors failing at 34K and asking to speak to the manager they agreed to replace them as under warranty. Later I found out that they did it as a courtesy and not warranty.

Most of my driv> Carl,

OEM plug wires are not too expensive. The catalog does not list sets for some years but a good dealer such as mine knows that the sets are listed for certain years and will fit other years perfectly.

David Short Acura God

You did well, since these are "wear items", not covered by the warrantee. However, a wear item that is defective in manufacture IS covered.

As strange as it may sound, sometimes you have you look in the paper catalogue to find the sets. There is some stuff in there that isn't in the computer, like clutch disc and pressure plate sets (which are usually a few dollars cheaper than buying separately.)

Hello All, I recently purchased a pre-owned 2003 Acura 3.2TL Type S with navigation. The car is MINT except I don't have the code for the navigation system and the dealer doesn't either. Before I bring it in to Acura and get killed on fees I was wondering if anyone knows how to reset the navigation system's 4 digit code to a default code. Is that possible? Or do i HAVE to take it to an Acura dealer to get reset? Thanks for your help!!

Recently, when driving home from work my car stalled. When I pulled over in a parking lot and tried to start the vehicle again it cranked a couple of times and then the starter just spins. I was a little low on gas so I put some gas in the tank. It still won't even turn the engine over and when I try and start it I just get a "whirring noise". Any suggestions?? Thanks

Found the answer for those interested. You need to get the S/N off of the dvd device in the trunk, then bring the car into an Acura dealer with proof of ownership/purchase, and they use a special web site to look up the 4 digit code. Interesting to know that one Acura dealer was going to charge me $96/hr to get the serial number off of the device and then look up the code online. They estimated approx. 1-2 hours. The device has 4 "easy to get to" screws and it took me about 5 minutes to get the S/N off of the unit. I will soon be bringing it to a local acura dealer to get the code for FREE!!

We have a 2003 MDX which my wife drives quite a bit. So far it's got 37K in just over 2 years and so far no brake problems. We drive in Atlanta and Atlanta traffic is pretty bad.

Maybe it was just substandard set. Hopefully this set will do you better.

"Andrew Petyo via CarKB.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@CarKB.com:

Possible broken starter bendix.(spins out to engage flywheel to crank motor) Possible broken timing belt.(possible expensive valve damage depending on model)

The "stalling" indicates a broken timing belt.

Stating the model and year of car would help,too,when seeking advice.

I ordered a car that is to be built, and I have the reference number for it. Is there any way online, or through the telephone, in which I may occassionaly track the progress of this vehicle.

Much regards Steve

(1987 Acura RS)

I agree - the big question is: has the timing belt been changed in the last

Otherwise, the question is "why did the engine quit when it had been running, and now the starter seems to spin?" If not the timing belt, I vote for the battery being too low to engage the starter or to keep the engine running. Charging or swapping the battery is a good place to start with that.

But before going that far, watch the alternator/PS/AC belts to see if they also move when trying to start the car and getting the whirring noise. If they are moving, the starter is turning the crank but the valves aren't keeping up... bad timing belt. I hope not.

Mike

Thank you guys for the feedback!! In response to stating the year and model I put it in the subject line, might have been overlooked. There is a good possibility that it is the timing belt. I bought the car used at 170k miles and now it is at 188k and I don't know if the belt was ever replaced. Going to try and open the oil cap and crank the car to see if the cam/valves are moving.

"Andrew Petyo via CarKB.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@CarKB.com:

Remove the oil filler cap and peer inside. Have friend (or friendly enemy) try to crank engine. See if camshaft is revolving. If, not, BROKEN TIMING BELT!

Seems irregular to me, too. I doubt your driving habits changed. Individual calipers can seize and go through pads in a hurry, but 4 at once with under

Mike

A possibility just occurred to me. I've only heard of it a couple of times, but boosters can fail in a way that causes them to apply the brakes, maybe gently enough to go unnoticed. It is easy enough to check out - with the car on a lift, they can check the drag on all the wheels. They start the car, wait a couple of minutes and compare the drag. Should be identical.

Mike