How do I tell if the Bose installed is the premium or the standard radio?
The output of the amp will be hooked to the speakers. So I don't think it would matter if the speakers are 2 ohms, since the new radio will be hooked to the inputs on the factory amps which usually have high impedance inputs.
TSB pages now have clickable descriptions instead of raw directory listings, which should make it a lot easier to find what you need.
More disc brake detail:
New "Reader's Rides" page. I can set up a whole page for your car for you, pics, documents, and all.
An appraisal that was done on my car will be added soon. It seems the check got lost in the mail or something, so it's not ready yet...
It should work, but note it is only for "compact car ball joints" and for tie rod ends. If you are going to use one on larger cars (I have an older Volvo wagon) or trucks at some time, you need the larger (more expensive) form.
Mike
The price you paid ($50) for the ball joint separator is way too much. You can get it for ~$12 over here:
I have an '04 TL that I traded up from an '04 Accord V6 LX. For the price and performance, I would go for the Accord V6 EX. It has a bigger engine, V6-240 hp vs. I4-200hp. I prefer the outside looks of the Accord better than the TSX. The back end of the TSX looks too boxy like a Civic. Around Chicago, you can find new '05 Accord EX V6's w/ NAVI for around or under invoice. That would put the price around the same as a TSX w/o NAVI. I would never buy a car again w/o NAVI. The TL's NAVI, which the Accord's is very similar too, is one of the best I have seen.
When accelerating out of a turn or just plain accelerating up a hill the car will suddenly rev up to 4000 without any increase in speed and will then change gears. It?s quite akward and was wondering if anyone had any advice.
For Sale :
4 Bridgestone Turanza EL42SZ P235/45R17 93W Used for only 8000 kms $350 CDNCall Jim at 613-733-9942
"lliguy" wrote: > I turned in my 2001 acura cl ts in Feb.21st.At the same time I > took > possession of a 2005 Tl lease.6 weeks later Acura sends me a > letter > demanding 1026 dollars saying it was in accordance with the > terms of > my lease.It gave no other details.I called acura and the guy > pulled up > my account and said it was for excessive wear and tear.I > returned that > car in very good shape and with only 25k miles after 4 years.I > told > him I was contacting the NY state attorney general's office > and was > requesting arbitration to settle the matter after reading the > NY State > leasing law.He immediately offered to take 200 dollars off and > to > accept 100 dollars a month payment plan.He said the offer > would still > stand if i lost arbitration but I had to do it in 20 days or > it will > be reported to credit agency.According to NY state leasing law > Acura > was required to send me by registered mail with signature > required a > letter detailing the damages and the cost of repair for each > item.Acura never did this.I know I should have had the car > inspected > before returning it but I had expected to keep car another 6 > months > after due date.The new car was done unexpectedly. Has any one > else > been through this?
You need to act fast and read articles at
unpleasant
Spraying the cabin filters with a wet Lysol spray probably did nothing more than bring out that Earth smell. Lysol will never truly clean the smell off.
Buy new cabin filters from
I could not remove the crankshaft nut no matter how hard I tried. I made a crank pulley fixture to hold the engine and then used an 18 in. braker bar with an extension and used my foot for leverage. Nothing worked. I decided to take it to an Acura repair shop and let them diagnose it for $50. They told me the number 3 cylinder was down 10 percent but believed they could repair it. They put a timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, cam seals, and crank seal in for $499. The car runs as good as ever. In fact, the trans shifts smoother than I can remember. It looks like I lucked out and didn't do any damage to the valves when the belt broke.
Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good! A very cheap lesson this time.
Many of us could have laughed at using an 18 inch breaker bar unless you are a piano mover. Some have had success with a 3 foot bar, but that bolt is a devil.
$499 for that work (I'd have recommended all of it, too) is a decent price. The tensioner and water pump add more than $100 to the parts cost but return a lot more than that in peace of mind. Congratulations! Enjoy your next 6 years/90K miles (or whatever your owner's manual specifies.)
Mike
Need recommendation of online sites to purchase brake rotors for a 91 Integra. The rotors on my Integra are warped.....tired of the massive shaking when applying brakes at high speeds. I have had these rotors turned once when I had the brakes replaced.....going to replace them.
Thanks!
I can only offer this advice - not all rotors are equal. The original rotors on my '85 Volvo lasted nearly 200K miles, until I neglected to check the pads a little too long. I installed Volvo pads and BAP rotors (saved $50 - woohoo!). Now the pads are half worn and the rotors are seriously ridged... they will barely last as long as the pads.
To avoid warping, be sure to always torque lug nuts on discs to spec with a torque wrench.
Mike
"Michael Pardee" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sedona.net:
Warping on the Integra is due to pretty much anything *other* than overtorqued wheel nuts. Some designs are sensitive to wheel nut torque, but the Civic/Integra is *not* one of them.
You can torque the nuts randomly to anything from 40 to 400lbs and this will affect the rotor's true not one whit.
The OP has three "most likely" problems: Glaze, overly aggressive braking, or poor maintenance.
I just changed the spark plug wires on my '91 TEG. Well, most of them --- I changed the 4 obvious ones that go from the plugs to the distributor cap. But the new set came with a 5th wire that I assume is to connect the distributor to the ignition coil, but I can't find the old wire I need to replace. Can anyone describe where this is? I looked and my neighbor looked, and neither of us can see where it is.
TIA
It does not have a coil wire. The coil is located inside the distributor cap therefore eliminating the need for a wire. The kit you got was probably a universal kit that included the wire in case you had a model that had a coil externally.
David Short Acura God
Thanks for the update! I know many cars (like my Volvo for sure... been there, done that) do have that problem - maybe something about the way the lugs are mounted?
Mike
"Acura God" wrote in news:1mgce.32001$r53.9538@attbi_s21:
And that means the wire kit was an AFTERMARKET jobbie.
*Might* last two years before it kills the coil.Carl,
The rotors go for about $98.00 a piece and the front pads go for about $57.00 a set. So, if you did it yourself, it would be about $255.00 for the front. $315.00 is not out of the ball park at all for the front.
You must do a lot of city driving in traffic to use up your pads that fast. My RSX-S front pads had worn about 1/2 in 38,000 miles.
I just changed my front pads only, because the rotors were not deeply grooved.
Dave M.
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