My '94 s10 pickup's key is stuck

Sep 24, 2007 4 Replies
4x2, 4.3L W, Tilt, auto trans. I pulled into my driveway and the key would NOT turn off. Stirring the gears was no help. I'm now pulling the ignition fuse when I need to stop the engine. Starts great (if I keep the battery from draining). I've got a new lock cylinder and ignition switch to install. I've got the wheel puller and lock plate compressor thingy. Everything I read says to turn the key to OFF before I pull the cylinder or disconnect the ignition switch. Are those four bolts on the steering column support bracket "tamper" Torx? Can I do either procedure properly with the key stuck in the on position?

I've got a Haynes manual and a Mitchell article from eAutorepair.net



Thanks in advance, Mark



If you can turn the key to the start position, and it returns to the run position I doubt the issue is with the key and tmbler assembly but rather with the switch itself. Easy check is remove the switch and see if the key then returns to the lock position. The other possablity is the "rack and pinion" assembly located in the left side of the column has worn out. The pinion is what the tumbler assembly connects to, it moves the rack which is conected to the rod that is connected to the switch at the base of the column. I've just never seen a tumbler assembly do what you are describing. As for safety, make sure the battery is dosconected. And yes you can remove the tumbler assembly with out it in the lock position. You should not have to mess with the steering column support bracket at all. The ignition switch can be replaced with the column in place.

Whitelightning

Okay, I got the steering wheel off (easy) and the lock plate, well, the removal instructions were incomplete- to be kind. There's another plate- that you don't compress, you unscrew it- never mentioned or shown in Chiltons or Haynes. Worst of all- not in Mitchell's. The new key cylinder fit fine. MARK

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