93 Grand cherokee start problem

Well they switched a few relays around or did they replace them with new? My son's 96 had a case of the electric cooling fan intermittently not coming on and it was a relay so maybe they resolved it. JoBo

Hi Jo Bo,

I just picked up the car from the garage.

I was told that "nothing engine wise" had power when the first tried to start it. (they checked all sensors before that and they all seem to be ok).

Because nothing seemed to have power they swapped the "abs relay" with the "automatic shutdown relay" and it fired up no problem. Then they swapped them back and the car started no problem either. I was told that that "wiggled" some wires because they were working on it. But they don't really know what it it. According to them, it might be the relais or a loose connection. But they said, "typically a relais works, or it doesn't"

So they are puzzled. They asked me to check if there was a recall on issues like that...or maybe if it is a known issue...

annyone has an idea ?

Ron

Jo Bo wrote:

I would go with the loose wire theory, or perhaps the relay plug or the socket it fits in is worn. If you want some extra feeling of security, you could replace the relays, or just buy a new one, and put it in the glove compartment, "just in case". It could also be that the relay connections were slightly corroded, and unplugging them and plugging them in again, cleared it off.

Earle

Ron Croonenberg did pass the time by typing:

It could be a bad relay. Relays can stick (actually arc weld) or internals can move around. It's also possible enough corrosion had built up in the socket to cause a fault. Always a good idea to remove/reinstall all fuses and relays at least once a year. A bit of dielectric grease helps.

You might want to buy a new relay and replace the ASD relay. Keep the old one as a spare. They don't cost much, probably 9$ or so.

You might want to check the power supply to the relay center. There was a recall at one time for a better power connection. The old one wasn't swaged well enough from what I remember. Thought that was 94-95 though

I'd probably also remove/clean/reinstall the computer connector. Be careful when you do, do not use the center bolt to suck it on, just push it in and finger tighten the bolt plus a smidge, the threads aren't too strong. (think plastic)

Hi all,

thanks for te tips. I'll try them all.

I have been "mssing around" with the car a bit to find out what is going on.

Here are a few things I noticed.

[1] The on/off interval "length" of the turnsignal seems to be longer. (uhhmm.. it seems to be "slower" when you look at the green arrow at the dash) [2] When i drive the car until "operating temperature" the fuel gage seem to go up a bit. [3] (This might seem hilarious to some people. I guy I see once in a while (he is a dragracer) told mr... "fuelpumps stick once in a while ...that's how they go". Anyway.. here's the funny part; He told me to knock the fueltank ... sometimes it gets unstuck that way. *lol* guess what.. I did that a few times... and that seems to work let's say 8 out of 10 times. (for example, tried to start it 2-3 times in a row after a 15 min drive, got out with a rubber deadblow hammer, banged the fueltank skidplate a few times on each side.. and it worked. However.. on time it didn't...

Sooo... ir the fuelpump stuck ? is it a bad ground or other connection that gets moved by the rubber hammer method.

I'd replace the pump ...if I knew that it is the pump. (but a fuelpump seems to cost +- $250 so if it isn't broken.. I don't want to replace it.

I'll try all your suggestions too though.

btw: are there any "grounds" near the fueltank ?

R> Hi Jo Bo,

Hi Bill,

I thought off that too. but then:

If I crank/start the engine long enough it would get fuel and start ...right ? I had it sit for 3 days.. fired it up and it started. (Unless the bleeding back isn't a consistent problem ...)

I'll try to put the keyin the runnin position and see if i can hear the pump run. (It should always run when the key is in the run position, correct ?)

thanks,

Ron

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

Ok, I can check that. is the "power supply to relay center" just a plug ?

I'll clean that connector too...

Thanks for all the great tips etc on this list.

this news group is very helpfull.

thanks,

Ron

hello all,

just went outside to check to see if the fuelpump is actually running..

I turned the key into the running position and didn't hear anything. Tried it a few times and didn't hear anything. Then I tried to start it...and it didn't want to start.

Then I invoked the "tap the fueltank skidplate with rubber hammer method" and put the key in the running position.

I can hear a 1-2 secs humming (kinda low humming), tried that several times and heard that 1-2 sec. humming every time. Then started it and it just fired up.

Sooo.. it seems it is either the pump that is "stuck" (and possibly almost dead) or is there still a possibility of a bad connection somewhere in that area ?

thanks,

Ron

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

ok.. it has 215,000 on it... so that sounds like a 65,000 bonus.

"it's relay" is that the one in the 'relay box' near the battery ?

Ron.

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

Would it be prudent to cut the line before the filter/pump and install a throw away filter you can change regularly?

Hi Bill, I don't see how, it's put together with the pump inside the tank:

While they had YJ AMC designthe filter was inline up at the front wheel.

Ahhhhh...

On my WJ the in-tank fuel pump has a screen and the filter is part of the regulator and is mounted in front of the tank above the axle.

I looks in the service manual that you might be able to add an inexpensive replaceable 'pre-filter' to clean the gas before it hits the expensive filter/regulator

I sent you the e-file (PDF)to your AOL address

Is $235 an "average" price for a fuelpump ? or can I get one online less expensive ?

thanks,

Ron

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote: