CJ is *ALIVE* again!!! PICTURES UP!

Aren't bonfires fun??? Mine took out ALL the wiring, radiator, carb, alternator, hoses, hood (way warped), and who knows what else.

Nice to see it back together aga> Whoo hoo! Check it out:

I peeked at the website and thought, "Nice motor. What's that pile o' crap it's sittin' on?" and then realized it's a Jeep. :) Haha! It's gonna be even better. Breakin' 'em's cool sometime. That scoop looks pretty cool too. I've thought a couple of times to put one on except backwards 'cause I'm not planning on riding with the windshield down. What size is that thing? P.S. Still waitin' for Bill to rumble, "Real Jeeps don't have damned hood scoops... like my dragster back in '72":)

Glad to see you got your Jeep runnin again. One thing you might want to look into about your idle problem, Holley carbs have a power vavle in them that can be damaged by carb backfires. The new carbs, like your Avenger, have what Holley calls a power vavle protection circuit, but it is not 100% effective. Your engine's symptoms are very simiar to what a blown power valve will act like. The first thing is to check for any air leaks on the carb base and manifold gaskets. The next thing is to check the timing properly with a timing light. Unhook the vacuum advance, set the idle to something less than 900 or so, and then set the timing to about 10 degrees before tdc. Hook the vacuum advance up, set the idle speed to near where you want it to run. Now start adjusting the idle mixture screws. I normally start by turning them in to see if the idle gets better when I suspect a blown power valve. If it runs best with the screws all the way in, then more than likely the power valve is shot. If it seems to check out good, then slowly adjust the mixture screws in or out to obtain the best idle. An important thing is to do each side a little at a time. If you turn one screw in a quarter turn and it helps, then go to the other side and do the same thing, repeat until you have your best idle. Also, if the idle speed picks up too much while you're doing this, readjust it to your original setting and go back to the mixture screws.

Chris

No, those straight pipes run under the frame and dump into 2 mufflers before exiting at the rear. I'm going to either go with a set of in-frame headers or to get those pipes inside where they can't be seen or I'm going to move the mufflers over to the outside of the frame and keep the headers I have and just put some turn-outs on the end of the mufflers. I haven't decided which way to go yet.

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

18"W x 5"H x 35-1/2"L

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

Thanks for the tips, Chris. I won't get a chance to check this out until next weekend, but I'll keep your post and refer back to it when I have a chance to try to fix the idle problem.

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

ooohhhh....fat tires!!.....

-Brian

ROFLMAO!!!!

Now 'those' are flotation tires!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote: