Massive oil in air filter 93 cherokee

There is a known problem with the PCV system and another one caused by a gummed up throttle body that can also lead to oil in the air filter.

I think the PCV problem was with earlier models but I am sure someone with the information will chime in with the appropriate dates. The fix there is replacement of parts.

The throttle body fix entails a thorough cleaning of all the gum, gunk, goop, and misc crud with an old toothbrush and a spray can of good cleaner such as GumOut JetSpray. It is easy enough for anyone to do on a warm summer day (when I did mine) and a bit more troublesome while standing in the snow.

Thanks foor the info, I have removed the valve cover and cleaned out the snorkles and the such and according to the dealership and JEEP my cherokee doesnt have a valve cover gasket so I used MOPAR RTV , probably the same as any other RTV, but I am going to replace the plugs and change the oil today while I am waiting the 24 hours forthe rtv to cure. I am then going to attempt to clean the throttle body really good and cross my fingers. Jeremy

L=2EW. Hughes III (=DFill) wrote:

sc00ter did pass the time by typing:

Easiest way to clean the TB is to first go get a new gasket then take the TB off, take the IAC mount off, leave the TPS sensor in place.

This is not without some risk. Be careful with the snap connections to the throttle body. I've taken mine off serveral times and have yet to break one.

You can then work at both sides of the butterfly and in the idle air passage with a toothbrush and solvent.

I say to get a new gasket because 80% of the time the old one will either split or not seal properly when you put it back. And they are cheap.

Remember the bolts/screws only go hand tight. 9 ft.lbs Your average person with a nutdriver can put out way more than that. It's easier to come back later and spray a bit of TB cleaner around the base. IF the engine stammers you have a leak and just tighten the bolts a bit more.

Some folks will sit the throttle body down on top of some fine sand paper on the workbench and move it in a figure eight just to clean the bottom and see if there are any high spots. Usually if a gorrilla has been at work the ears are high. (area around the bolt holes)

When I first got my MJ, I didn't think I would EVER get it to idle right. After several attempts with the spray can, I pulled the TB off and let it percolate for a couple of hours in a big untrasonic tank I have here - filled the tank as appropriate with carb cleaner and STILL had to manually ream out the idle bypass port! Even the old carbs with the exhaust bypass loop (usually plugged solid) for heating weren't that bad!

ok, I resealed the valve cover after cleaning it out and resealing the splash guards and it leaked like a sive, so I took it to the dealer and they reseald the valve cover and its fine. I am still getting a TON of oil into the aircleaner. what could the problem be I have cleaned the TB and replaced vacuum lines and elbows and everything that was told to me and i still have the prob.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

JEremy

sc00ter did pass the time by typing:

Follow the rear tube back to the intake rail and then take a bit of wire and make sure the attachement fitting isn't clogged.

It is possible you have a leak in the exhaust valve seals, but that's not common. To find out you stick a vac/pressure gauge on the valve cover (usually there is a big rubber plug to cover the oil fill hole) or fit it to the forward tube (the one that runs to the filter) then watch. If it pulses like mad you probably have a valve seal leaking.

I like the convert it idea, problem the pic is not what I have. I am also seeming to have some difficulty with this because my Cherokee is a

Jeremy

I did do that, I took off the cover (valve) and took the baffles off, cleaned them and resealed them and the valve cover is sealed now. I guess I am not clear on the orifices, the tubes from my valve cover go as follows, the front one goes to the air box and the rear one goes to the intake manifold to a nipple that I cleaned out by removing it and I could see straight into the manifold so that isnt clogged. I am not getting any smoke at all in the exhaust. I am baffled.

Jeremy snipped-for-privacy@msn.com

Will H> Second that deep crud idea, Bill. Fiend had an 87 that would fill a

Can you blow through the plastic tube that goes to the back of the valve cover?

You can email me the photo of the back spark plug and I can post it on alt.binaries.pictures.autos.4x4 and over on my photo album site.

It sounds like a compression test might be in order. You also can remove the oil filler cap and watch for puffs of smoke coming out of there which could indicate a bad valve guide, likely on #6....

Mike

I think I have the problem narrowed down to the #6 cylinder. It may have a leaky valve guide seal in as there is no smoke comming out of the exhaust but there is smoke comming out of the oil cap hole (when I remove the cap)

sc00ter did pass the time by typing:

Smoke out the fill hole is a sure sign you have damaged valve seals/guides. They can be replaced without removing the head, but you need an air compressor or a few feet of rope to fill the cyl so the valve doesn't drop in.

thats what I thought, but everyone I have contacted around here says there wouldnt be smoke from bad valve seals. So how much would that normally cost in as I do not posess the tools and may be able to figure it out but more efficient for me to have someone else do it.

Smoke/Pressure coming out of the fill hole describes blow-by. That is NOT caused by worn valve seals. Worn valve seals would cause smoke out the EXHAUST on startup and on decel.

Blow-by (combustion chamber gasses entering the crank case) is caused by worn piston rings, or worse, broken pistons.