Metering rod adjustment??

Thanks Bill, I did push that diaphram (only) to bottomed out position, but when I adjust the screw to accomodate this position against the linkage, the set screw is threaded all the way. No adjustment left. I find that odd. I tried shimming with washer, but It doesn't seem to help. I'm obviously overlooking something.

I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were right on so I think the YF ones should be right.

First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the throttle butterfly is closed tight.

Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.

Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting, then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.

As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets and pump.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Paul Brogren wrote:

Well this has been my situation. Two years ago I rebuild this carb. And yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw). Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly, during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.

I adjusted the Napa kit for my '73 Carter YF on a 258 to exactly the same point you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.

Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the metering rod is adjusted correctly?

Lee Colorado Springs original '73 CJ5

That carb does have a high altitude adjustment on some of them. Some screw that turns 2.5 turns from high to low altitudes. I have no idea what it would look like though.

To check the carb for rich lean condition, you take it for a good drive preferably steady on the highway and stop and check the plugs.

Too rich will have black/brownish sooty plugs and too lean will have whitish plugs.

I messed with mine once and noticed a drop in highway power right away. I think I was lean because if I fluttered the gas pedal which gives shots of extra gas via the accelerator pump, I got a noticeable power and speed increase.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

LeeB103926 wrote: