novice question on getting a stuck vehicle out

When you have a choice, it is always best to pull with your vehicle in a forward gear. That is, pull in Drive instead of Reverse. The gears in the diff are cut in a manner to make them stronger going forward than backward, you need to leverage this design consideration instead of ignore it.

When winching, then obviously you will be pulling in Reverse because the winch will be mounted to the front. When winching, you may find that you might need to anchor your vehicle with a second vehicle because a winch won't always free the stuck vehicle, but it will always draw the lightest load toward the heaiver one. This means your vehicle may be pulled into the ditch.

Whether or not you pull in a forward gear or a reverse gear really dempends on just how stuck the object vehicle really is. If it merely can't get traction because the muffler is high centered, then pulling in reverse should be fine. But, if it has dropped off the side of the road and is buried in a culvert, then you will want to be sure to pull in a forward direction. If the object vehicle is able to run, then you might want the driver to be in it with the engine running and in gear and LIGHTLY applying the gas to help his car move. If it comes free, then he must be very careful to not run over the cable or strap. You always want to draw up the slack in the cable or strap before attempting to pull the object vehicle free. Do not snap a slack strap of cable. This is when the cable or strap will break and snap back towards you. If there is a bystander anywhere within the arc of the cable, they will be at risk of being hit by the flying cable or strap. As a safety precaution, you should always place a jacket or blanket over the cable or strap to absorb the energy in the event that it does break.

Get a nylon snatch strap with loop ends (*not* metal hooks). This kind of strap will stretch and use stored energy to jerk the stuck vehicle out. Attaching to the rear of your vehicle is preferred. Always let the victim attach the strap to his own vehicle so you're not responsible if something is damaged. Ensure the victim does not secure it to or with something that could break free and become a projectile.

Steve

j.lef wrote:

Thanks Jeff, Steve and Bill. Which forward gear, would you use? L fwd?

Also, an aside to Bill. Take this as a compliment. I have been reading your comments on this group for about six months, and always curious to see what you say. Sometimes its nasty, sometimes amusing, but always in the end a wealth of information.(usually with links to pictures, and diagrams) Keep up the good work.....

Much regards Jerry

I disagree with you. Not completely, but alot.

First, You and I might know where to attach a strap, but if we get stuck it is because we were playing at a time when we should have been paying attention. The vast majority of people that get stuck were paying close attention and they still got stuck; they are clueless of where to attach a strap. Heck, I have seen Jeepers attach a strap to a body mount bolt, then scratch their head wondering why there is a new hole in the tub, so giving the benefit of the doubt because a Jeep is involved is dangerous. I think a novice should NEVER be given the responsibility to attach a strap or cable. And if you are not able to attach a strap where it will do no damage, then you should leave the vehicle buried in the snow.

Second, the strap should be pulled up tight before the pulling begins. Driving off with a slack strap, and having it draw tight and yank all at once is the second or third option, it is NEVER THE FIRST attempt.

Whichever one it takes. Usually, 4HI and 1st is a good choice, but be ready to go into 4LO.

I agree with everything that Jeff said, but I would like to add that when pulling or pushing out a stuck vehicle, you should be in 4-LO.

Tom

Hi Jeff:

Why 4-HI? I would think that the recovery vehicle should be in 4-LO, which would give the recovery vehicle a LOT more torque or "pulling power>"

Tom

information.(usually

pulled, what is the preferred spot on front and rear to attach the strap to?

Much regards

j.lef did pass the time by typing:

As an old farmer once told me..

"Here, sonny. Attach this to what you want comin out."

...

The rear axle around a draglink but never around the pumpkin. Preferably to the frame, but that requires a metal connector that some arn't comfy with. If you have to use a frame hook, put a heavy blanket over the strap close to the vehicle being pulled out.

Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". No one ever says where to attach the strap to...

Anyone wanna break the silence? Cause I'd really like to know. On yer standard issue sedan, what do you hook up to? n.

I always attach the strap, and I attach it to the frame. If I have to, I use a chain to get to both sides of the frame, then hook my strap to the chain. The chain is strong enough for the load, and I route the chain through the loop on the end of my strap.

Just close the big metal hook in the sunroof and yank. ;) Actually, some sedans actually have factory tow hooks. Toyota is fond of putting them on. My Porsche does. Your vehicle may vary. You might try looking at the owner's manual prior to hooking up, though. Good question, because, after all, this _is_ the season for sedan fishing.

Nathan Otis did pass the time by typing:

Most vehciles have pull points on the frame, but depending on the angle those can bend the back bumper or body metal.

Modern vehicles don't have real bumpers, most will simply rip off with the slightest stress.

If it's another Jeep or truck and they have a ClassIII hitch I usually pin the loop in there for a straight pull. Pulling at an angle may bend the frame on the newer trucks.

For the underside I use a couple of T hooks welded into a chain. Not to be confused with that shiny metal hook that comes on suicide tow straps.

I have pulled from the axle mounts, but only if they have a draglink that runs back to the frame. That has a high potential of screwing up alignment.

Another location is a frame cross member if you have to pull at an angle. Usually the tranny mount crossmember, but some times like on old chevys you can get a strap around the motor crossmember. Never pull on an A-arm old ones may take it but the new ones will snap.

Truthfully it depends on the vehicle. Even tow companies have books for hooking up.