RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X

Forgot to mention....the 3 inch spacer lift is a combo of 4 - 2" spacers and 4 - 1" spacers. Is it safe to stack the spacers like this? As previously mentioned, I do not do any extreme off roading at all. 90-95% of my driving is highway. Both the 2 inch and the 3 inch coil spacer kits come with extended bump stops and new shocks.

OK.....just got off the phone with a major dealership here and was told that I may not need to upgrade to the 4.11 gears. They mentioned something about re-gearing the pinion factor thru the jeep's computer. Anyone heard of this? If so, is it effective?

Twaldron -- HELP

Since you mentioned this...... What exactly are ALL the parts that I need to do the 3.07 to 4.56 gear conversion? I have come up with needing a 3.73 carrier for the 4.56 gears and Dana 30 Ring and Pinion gears. Again, I have the D30 in front and D35 in rear. What else do I need?

P.S. You might just win this discussion yet! LMAO

Say What????

Good lord where do the $tealerships find these total idiots?

On the 2006 I believe you can 'recalibrate' the 'speedometer' for the tire size via the computer where in the 'old days' we put a new 'speedometer' gear into the transfer case. Mine has that so 33" tires make my speedometer right on.

This has absolutely 'nothing' to do with the drive gears or how many rpm you turn at say 65 mph, nothing at all!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Stock as you sit 'right now' with 'no' modifications your Jeep will fit

31x10.5" tires.

32" tires require 1/2" more clearance and different rim backspacing.

33" tires require 1" more clearance and different rims also. (they are 2" taller than 31's, but only 1" of that is on either side of the rim.)

I have helped a gent put on the 2" spacer kit and it only took a couple hours in the driveway.

If you just go with the 2" spacer kit, the 33's will fit unless you are really aggressive off road. a 1" body lift will make sure it doesn't tag.

The spacer doesn't need as much clearance as longer springs do because it keeps the stock spring rate or tire up and down travel distance. That is what the extended bumpstops are for.

Too bad you don't know anyone with 31's that you could just swap tires with for the day to see what they look and feel like.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

You'd have to replace the carrier, pinion shaft, and ring gear in both front & rear differentials, plus new seals and bearings, plus labor. You're looking at a job for at least $1000. If you skip it, your Jeep will accelerate worse than a loaded school bus when you install 33" tires with a

3.07 final drive ratio.

My advice, if you're only doing it for looks, you would save LOTS of money if you just go with a 31"x10.5" tire. You won't need new wheels, you won't need a lift of any kind, your performance won't suffer as much and the tires will fill the wheelwells nicely.

I didn't think so either. That's why they're not getting my business. But, here are all the parts that I need for the conversion according to a reputable parts store.....

Yukon D30TJ / D35 4.56 GEAR AND MASTER INSTALL KIT package deal $389, D30 3.73 up carrier $59, and D35 3.55 up 1.56 carrier $59. TOTAL Delivered to me $507.

How does this price sound? I can have the whole thing installed for $250. Are there any other parts that I need for this conversion to be done properly and safely?

How silly would 31 X 10.5 X 15 tires look with a 1.5 spacer suspension lift kit? Can I still use my stock rims?

You can use the stock rims and it will look very nice and balanced with a 1.5 or 2" spacer lift.

Cheap and easy too. Then if you have the need or want, you can save the pennies and go 'big' later.

The 31's will also very likely put your speedometer right on for calibration. You check it with a GPS or measured mile.

Jeep usually calibrates the speedometer for the largest 'stock' tire size which is the 31x10.5's. Well they used to, don't know now with the computer tweaking ability. A GPS will tell.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

WOO HOO!! PERFECT!! Alrighty then....

I just found a set of four 31X10.5 BFG Mudterrain TA tires on E-Bay with less than 4000 miles for a starting bid of $100. S&H to me would be another $100.

So, just to clear things up (for me--LOL).....

1.) I can go with a 2" coil spacer suspension lift (spacers are a FULL 2") and still be able to use my stock rims with that lift? Would I need 2" longer shocks? 2.) With the 2" spacer lift, would I have to drop the t-case or do any other mods besides slapping it on? 3.) With the 31 X 10.5, how will this affect my performace (i.e. the "tall" gear aspect)? Will I be OK with the 3.07s? 4.) I assume that I will need the speedo re-calibrated as well as an alignment?

Can you think of anything that I have missed? I am thinking this is the best way for me to get 3.5" of total lift for right now until I get my pennies together for something bigger and better. And this way is MUCH cheaper with FAR LESS headaches than a higher lift and bigger than 31 inch tires.

Thank you soooo much for your patience and your help. I understand why everyone requests your help with stuff like this. : )

Yes you will only need longer shocks 'and' a longer bumpstop.

Nothing else.

OK, is a relative term. You might notice a bit of lack of power in 5th or overdrive on the highway in a headwind. If you do, just shift gears.

My 5th or overdrive still has 'pull' at 65 mph, but the rpm are low enough that the engine lugs. If I only use 4th as a top gear, I get about 5 mpg better than using 5th.

Easy enough to check.

Maybe on the speedometer, yes on the alignment. The toe in will need adjusting and the steering wheel drag link will need adjusting to center the steering wheel. Both 'can' be done at home, but that should be a separate thread.

You are welcome, I hope it helps.

Mike

All this information that you have given me has helped immensely. With your help (and the help of others on this post), I was FINALLY able to get everything sorted out as to what exactly it was that I wanted.

There is just one thing that I don't understand though. How come you can't put a 31 X 11.5 X 15 tire on the stock rims?

Tracie wrote: .

They are too wide for the 7" rim and the rim 'back space' isn't right.

You have to have a rim that has the center dish 'offset' so the 'tire' part sticks out of the fender more. The stock one will have the tire too close to the shock absorber or control arm and it will rub.

In some places, when you go 12.5" you must change your fender flairs so they cover the tire or you will get a ticket. That is why they sell wider flairs.

Here in Canada if you shoot water off the tires you can get a ticket.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Technically, you are correct according to manufacturer's specs, however I don't completely agree. Currently, I'm running 32x11.50x15s on 15x7" mags on my Early Bronco right now and they look great. Just a touch less air to flatten out the contact patch. It puts a slight bulge in the tire to give it a plumpish look, which I like. Also, I run 35x12.50x15s on

15x8 wheels on my TJ. Same look, same principal. I think the main issue is the backspacing on some of the factory wheels, so I agree about that part. I don't know which factory wheels you have, but there are varying backspacing specs on Jeep factory wheels. On a street rig, you should be able adjust your steering stops with the factory wheels, that have less backspacing, to avoid rubbing. If you have the Unlimited wheels or the Rubi wheels, you are better off.

DO NOT STACK THE SPACERS!!

tw

Heheh! Ok, run from this dealership service advisor..in fact, report him! Or better yet, just shoot him in the head! Dang! :)

tw

I don't want to win anything. We just hang out to help each other. :)

This is a serious build and requires a shop that specializes in axle/differential rebuilds, not just some general mechanic's shop. It's not brain surgery, but don't just take it to any grease monkey. It will also cost some serious coin. I would let the shop handle the parts so you will get a full warranty on the work. You unfortunately have chosen a Jeep that wasn't ideal as a lift candidate in relation to its axles. If I was in your shoes, I'd consider finding some new Rubi axles from an owner that upgraded it.

tw

Yes.

You have to turn the rear axle forward, so that the pinion axis is almost parallel (a bit lower) to the transfer case output shaft. Or drop the transfer case 1/2 inch. Turning the rear axle forward will cost more if you have a shop do it for you (requires either adjustable lower arms, or elongating the upper arms rear mounting holes and installing an eccentric washer to set the pinion angle). You may not be sensitive enough to feel the vibes, but even with 1 inch lift, the pinion angle gets misaligned, increasing mechanical noise and u-joint wear.

You also MUST rotate the front axle towards the rear to make the pinion axis parallel with the front driveshaft. This will restore the caster angle to factory specification, which is very important to limit the occurence of death wobble. The toe-in on the front axle must be set after the pinion angle is set for the front axle.

The 2" spacer lift and 31" M/T tire combination is a very good combination. If you disconnect the front sway-bar the off-road capability of your rig will be dramatically increased compared to what it is right now. With the say-bar connected, your on-road behavior will not be much affected. This is a picture of a 2006 TJ with 2" spacer lift and 235R15 tires with the swaay-bar disconnected.

But you must find a shop that is willing to deal with all the "minor" details required to make the car run comfortable and safe as it was prior to the lift (fine tune the pinion angles).

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ '06 TJ.

What 'are' you talking about?

The front has a double cardan or CV joint already so needs 'no tweaking' at all even for a larger lift and a 2" is not going to change the rear enough to matter.

You get that much/more change with a load on or off.

By your reckoning if I put 4 people and gear in my Jeep, it won't drive because my height will be off by at least 2".

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >> 2.) With the 2" spacer lift, would I have to drop the t-case or do