RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X

The Rubicon comes from the factory with essentially 31x10s. They're metric so they are a hair smaller than yours but not worth talking about. They fit on the factory mount just fine. They will not damage your tailgate unless you're jumping it, in which case your factory spare would tear it up too. Save your pennies for your 4.5" spring lift.

tw

Reply to
twaldron
Loading thread data ...

I am going to save my pennies for a 4.5" lift (and have it done the RIGHT way). However, I do want to do something with it NOW (LOL). So, I am just going to take Mike's and several other poster's suggestions and just do a 2" budget lift with new shocks until I have enough pennies saved. This way, I won't have to worry about potential headaches with a higher lift just yet until I can afford to address all of those needs too.

THANK YOU everyone for all of your extreme patience and VERY useful (and helpful) information. I learned soooo much from the several posts that took place on this thread. I will keep you updated and let you know how the 2" budget lift works out.

Tracie

Reply to
Tracie

Yup, I'm just saying don't spend your money on a tire carrier yet. When you're running 33s, you'll want it, but then you'll have to re-gear, etc. so it will be a while.

tw

Reply to
twaldron

You will have zero problems with the tailgate, since it's the same tailgate that comes with the Rubicon, and your new tire size is roughly the same as the Rubicon tires. I don't even think you'll need the spare tire adapter.

Spare tire mounts on the rear bumper will require replacement of the bumper, since the stock one won't handle the weight. PLan on spending at least $500+.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

If you really want to save your pennies, I would suggest dropping the spacer lift for now, since your Jeep will fit 31" tires without *any* lift at all. At the very least, take a look at it with the new tires before your decide you "need" the spacer lift.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

The one thing about these spacer lifts for the TJs is that they're inexpensive and can be Ebay'd when she upgrades. The pucks don't really wear out, but the shocks will, eventually. But considering her financial concerns, I think she's doing the right thing.

tw

Reply to
twaldron

I think I am doing the right thing for now too. : D

As for when the time comes that I can afford a properly installed lift with all of the issues addressed that need to be, I can definitely sell this spacer lift on E-Bay and recoup almost half of what it cost me brand new. A decent spacer lift on E-Bay with shocks runs about $200 to $225. Even if I sell it a couple of years from now, I could still get around $75 for it. So, for now it's the spacer lift.

Who knows? Maybe after I get the spacer lift installed (which will give me about 3.5" of lift including my 31s) I may not want to go any higher. And even if I do want to go a little higher, I could always get a 1" or 2" body lift put on and buy 32s when my 31s wear out. That would give me an additional 1.5" or 2.5" of lift. This would still be cheaper than having to re-gear the jeep, buy and install a good 4.5 lift kit, etc., etc. By doing the body lift with 32s, I would only need to spend money on the body lift, new rims, and new tires. And I would still have a grand total of 5" or 6" of lift. Which I think will be plenty of lift for me, considering I am not into extreme off-roading.

As for the tire carrier....I didn't realize that Rubi had a tire size close to my 31s. I guess I will not worry about a spare tire carrier then at this point in time. Thanks for that info Matt.

One question.....does anyone have any input regarding the 2" spacer lifts that come with bar pin eliminators (shock extensions) instead of longer shocks? Are they safe?

Reply to
Tracie

Since you're not doing any serious offroading, I'll say this. I'm not sure, specifically, what brackets you're talking about, but if you don't go past full extension and compression on the shock with your lift using these brackets, I'd say it's OK. You want your bumpstops to stop the articulation, not the limits of the shock absorber length, as this would tear the shock apart.

Here's how I pick shock length. Take all 3 measurements from each shock position after your lift is installed.

First of all there's the "static" measurement. When your Jeep is sitting idle on flat ground, measure the distance between upper and lower shock mounts. This is your static measurement.

Secondly, compress the suspension on one side and "stuff" the wheel as high as it will go, measure again for compression.

Thirdly, compress the other side of the axle and measure the same mount for extension.

These 3 measurements give you the exact shock you will need. Give yourself a little extra on the compression/extension measurements as a rock will most certainly push the axle up higher than your floor jack, but this gives you a pretty accurate picture. The guys who 'package' these lifts together should have figured this out, but if you go adding shock brackets and such, you will have to take your own measurements.

tw

Reply to
twaldron

Yes they are safe. You can still use the stock shocks and save money (plus retain the stock soft ride). The most important is to get a budjet boost kit that has the bump-stop extensions. 2" for the back and 1.5" for the front. And be sure that they will be installed.

For bar pin eliminators you can make a simple check though to be sure that they will function ok. They must relocate the one end of the shock (compress the shock) for the same length as that of the bump-stop extension spacer used in that axle. If this is verified ok, then you have nothing to worry about.

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ, '06 TJ.

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

Why doesn't the front use the 2" extended bump stops as well like the rear?

Reply to
Tracie

I found extended bump stops that are good for 2.5" to 4" lift kits. Will these work with a 2" or a 2.25" spacer lift kit since neither of these is quite 2.5"?

Reply to
Tracie

Yes, go with the ones for a 2.5" lift.

tw

Reply to
twaldron

The stock rear springs are shorter and stiffer. So since you raise the rear

2", you need a 2" bump stop extension to prevent the rear springs from being over-compressed and get deformed. This way the articulation in the rear stays the same as before the lift.

In the front, the stock springs are longer and softer, and so you can use a shorter bump stop extension and achieve 0.5" more articulation when the wheel is pushed up. The front springs won't be strained much if compressed

0.5" more than stock.

You also need the bump stop extensions to ensure that the larger tires won't rub on the fenders.

When a wheel is in the air and hangs down, the suspension travel is limited by the shock's travel. You need either longer shocks or shock extensions (bar pin eliminators) to restore suspension travel (articulation) to stock or a bit more. However, bar pin eliminators (BPE) I have seen on the market, usually compress the shocks only about 3/4" which is not enough. If you can find BPE which relocate the shock 1.5" or 2", then ok. Otherwise you have to construct your own, or easier get longer shocks.

The Terraflex kit (advertised as 1.5" spacers) is actually 2" spacers and has the correct bump stop kit extenders.

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ, '06 TJ.

? "Tracie" ?????? ??? ?????? news: snipped-for-privacy@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

A suspension should NEVER be limited by the shock's travel. A shock that limits travel would be an ex-shock soon enough. Your suspension's travel should be limited by spring compression and ultimately the bumpstop.

tw

Reply to
twaldron

In TJ as in almost every other vehicle without leaf springs, the suspension is limited on compression by the bump stops, but when expaded, the suspension is limited by the shocks. That is because the force needed to limit the suspension when fully compressed is much larger (weight of the vehicle plus the downwards momentum of the vehicle) than that needed to limit suspension travel when fully expanded (just the axle weight plus downwards momemtum of the axle).

In TJs, the shocks are what keep the axles from dropping for several more inches before they are limited again by the track bar and arms.

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ, '06 TJ.

? "twaldr>> The stock rear springs are shorter and stiffer. So since you raise the

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

The compression side bottoms out before the expanded side reaches the limits on the shock. POP!

tw

Bill Spiliot> In TJ as in almost every other vehicle without leaf springs, the suspension

Reply to
twaldron

Sorry, I can't understand what you mean.

? "twaldron" ?????? ??? ?????? news:qZABi.12317$Yg.5171@trnddc02...

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

You 'certainly' would 'not' be able to run any of the trails I run set up like that, you would drop the wheel into a hole and snap the shock off faster than you can say oops....

Been there, done that with my 'leaf sprung' CJ7 even.

The downward motion 'must' be limited by something other than the shock or you will break things like the frame or 'just' the bar pins if you are lucky.

That is why the TJ has a rear antisway bar in it, it limits the range of motion. Take that off and the rear springs can literally fall out.

I am not sure what stops the front springs from falling out on a TJ.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > In TJ as in almost every other vehicle without leaf springs, the suspension
Reply to
Mike Romain

Meaning that the compression side, by bottoming out on the bumpstop, limits the travel of the other side's expansion as you go over terrain. They are dependent on each other by design. Your shocks need to expand longer than your extended suspension or you WILL destroy the shock.

tw

Bill Spiliot> Sorry, I can't understand what you mean.

Reply to
twaldron

My TJ came new without the rear anti-sway bar installed. As they come from the factory, the shocks are what prevents the springs from getting un-seated. If you remove the shocks, the axles drop much more and the springs almost fall out. The only other thing that limits the axle from dropping all the way down, is the track-bar in combination with the upper/lower arms.

This is the wheeling I do, not very extreme but not too light either, with

2" spacer lift, disconnected swaybars and the stock shocks with home made shock extensions so that the shocks are not limiting the suspension travel when the suspension is fuly compressed. I am very pleased from this setup and it only cost me $100 for the spacers.
formatting link
Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ, '06 TJ.

? "Mike Romain" ?????? ??? ?????? news:46d6e341$0$5519$ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com...

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.