RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X

One more question....should I get my stock steering stabilizer replaced with a more heavy duty one due to the increase in the size of the tires? I am going from 215/75/15 up to 31 X 10.5 X 15.

The alignment won't change because of tires, so no issues there.

You 'might' have issues when you turn the steering hard to either side. The tires 'might' tag on one side or the other.

If this happens, you can easily remove the steering stop and put one washer under it so the wheels don't turn 'quite' as much.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

No, your new tires 'are' a stock size that is available for the J in some trim packages. That is also why your speedometer 'may' become correct with the 31's. (It used to work that way, but the new computer tweaking might make yours different, you will just have to check)

Now if you start off roading hard, then a new stabilizer may be in order.

Your 'perceived' gas mileage will drop for sure unless the speedometer gets changed because the new tires travel farther than the old one for every rpm.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

So as far as the alignment goes, I take it that I will need one AFTER the lift is installed?

In article , Mike Romain wrote: #No, your new tires 'are' a stock size that is available for the J in #some trim packages. That is also why your speedometer 'may' become #correct with the 31's. (It used to work that way, but the new computer #tweaking might make yours different, you will just have to check)

I use a GPS to check my speedometer on my 04 TJ and it's off by 10% or so (reads 55 mph while the gps says 50 mph). This is with stock Rubicon MT/Rs.

/herb

Yes, always get your vehicle aligned when you change suspension/steering components. Any time you lift or lower a vehicle, the alignment will change, at least slightly.

Chris

Correct, a toe in alignment and a drag link alignment to set up the steering wheel.

I recommend you bounce the Jeep off road before doing the drag link alignment because they tend to settle in a bit after the lift is used so the steering wheel will then move again.

This can be done in the driveway if you are handy with tools, if not, use a shop.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

I have to remind you that the TJ has a coil sprung suspension with upper and lower arms, which alter the pinion angle when it is raised - lowered, unlike the leaf sprung suspensions which keep the pinion angle constant.

Raising 2" does create driveline vibes because the rear pinion is no longer parallel to the transfer case output shaft. You can chose to ignore them or may not notice they are there, but the truth is that they exist. I have seen TJ of friends of mine that said they didn't have any driveline vibes after a 2" lift, but when I drove their rig I could feel the difference. With a mismatch in pinion - output shaft angle, it feels like the engine is running rough and they blame the engine or the exhaust. The only way to convince them was to drop their thansfer case 1/2 inch and ask them if they cound feel the difference, which they could.

Yes, the TJ has a double cardan joint in the transfer case front end, which requires the pinion angle to be set almost parallel to the driveshaft (0.5 degrees lower). You won't notice driveline vibes when in 2wd mode though. But the front pinion angle also affects the front caster angle. By raising 2" in the TJ, the caster increases from -7 degrees to about -5. The front pinion also gets 2 degrees higher than the driveshaft. By re-adjusting the front pinion angle, you fix the caster angle also. When the front pinion is adjusted properly, you loose only 0.3 degrees of caster angle for the 2" lift compared to the factory caster setting.

Now I speak all this from personal experience on the exact same vehicle as the O.P., as I have installed the same lift on my TJ and setting the pinion angles was what made it to ride smooth like stock again.

About adding cargo and upsetting the rear driveline angle to create vibes, this is what happens in the TJ. There is a range that the pinion angle may be off, which doesn't create noticeable vibes. The rear pinion is set to the upper side of this range. When you load the TJ and the suspension its lower, the rear pinion will operate to the lower side of the range, and you won't get any vibes. With slight load, the pinion angle is at the center of the range and it feels like running a bit smoother. But if you remove the hardtop and the rear seat, which makes the suspension sit higher, you will notice driveline vibes.

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ, '06 TJ.

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A correction, Caster angles should be positive (7 degrees), not negative.

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So what you're saying is this:

I get a 2.25 inch spacer lift with new shocks

When I do get this lift setup, I will have to do two things: a.) drop the transfer case 1/2 inch, and b.) readjust the FRONT pinion angle which in turn readjusts the caster angle.

Will I have to adjust the REAR trackbar as well with a trackbar relocation bracket?

THANKS

1) Insert spacers 2) Install new shocks 3) Adjust rear pinion, if necessary 4) Align (caster, toe) 5) Adjust draglink to straighten steering wheel 6) Drive until you save money for the 4.5" lift you really want.

No, with a 2" lift you do not need a FRONT or REAR Track bar relocation.

tw

Tracie wrote:

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You keep trying to push the envelope with your lift choices. 2.5" is getting up there as Bill points out quite well.

I think a smaller spacer and a body lift will be a lot less trouble and give you the same overall look.

Once you get over 2" with 'suspension' lift, you are looking at relocating 'both' track bars to center the wheels back under the Jeep and adjustable control arms to set the pinion angles back right.

Mike

Good points. The OP wants to go 2.5" also.

Mike

Bill Spiliot> A correction,

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OK everybody.....new scenario.

I have found a lift kit that contains the following. Let me know what you think of this kit vs. the kit with the 2.25" coil spacers, new shocks, and my stock springs. Just for reminders, I have a 2006 Wrangler X with 6 speed manual, A/C, and 3.07 gears. I now have 31 X

10.5 X 15 tires on my stock rims.

The new kit that I have found is this:

1=2E) Rubicon springs (front and rear) that are 1" longer than my stock springs 2=2E) 2" coil spacers for front and rear 3=2E) A 1.25" t-case drop kit made by Daystar 4=2E) Four shocks that are rated for a 2-3" lift

This will give me a total lift of 3". Do I need to worry about a rear track bar relocation bracket or getting a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit with this type of setup? Anything else I should know with this type of setup? And lastly, will 31s look too small with this type of lift setup? Feel free to give me any other information that you can think of regarding this lift vs. the original lift I was thinking of (the one that was going to use my stock springs).

THANKS

Has anyone really verified that Rubi springs are 1" taller? I've got a Rubi and I'm not quite sure it isn't a myth. However, I've never physically compared to a standard TJ spring.

With 3" of suspension lift, you need to start looking at adj. control arms, SYE/CV, track bar relocation, etc. Just buy the size springs you want or stick to the spring spacers ONLY.

tw

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Mike and Bill --

You both have VERY good points and I am grateful for the information that you've provided to me. I am just really new to this and don't want to have to do this lift 5 times over to get the results that I want.

So on that note.....TW The instructions that you gave a couple of posts above (#1-#6).....I assume that this is good for the 2.25" spacers as well.....not just for 2" spacers? (I am assuming that 1/4 inch would not make much difference, but with stuff like this, it wouldn't surprise me if it did make a difference).

Mike.... If I just do the 2.25" spacer lift like you are suggesting, would a 1" body lift in the future cause any headaches in the future as far as the installation goes? I have heard some body lift kits are not compatible with jeeps that have A/C.

Yes, the 2.25 as well. As far as a 1/4" making a difference...as a rule, no. Vibes are a funny thing, though. Basically, it seems that what you are trying to do is get to the threshold of vibes so you don't have to spend the money on the SYE/CV kit but get the highest lift you can. Problem is, the threshold is not a 'carved in stone' lift amount. You can lift 10 TJs 2.25" and probably one or more of them will have vibes. If you want to play on the razor's edge, you need to be prepared for the worst case. Expect vibes on the 3" susp.lifts.

tw

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Bill/Mike/TW --

That's what I thought. I didn't think there was a difference in the height either. In order to save myself all the headaches (and you poor guys as well :D), I have decided to go with a 2.25" coil spacer lift with the new shocks and my stock springs. I will most likely add a 1" body lift for 32" tire clearance in the future. Which will still give me roughly 5.5" of lift (with the 32s). And that's close enough to what I wanted overall anyway (I wanted 6" of lift overall, but will settle for 5.5").

Someone mentioned that when you get over 2" of suspension lift (Mike I think this was you), that you start to have all sorts of headaches. Not to sound silly, but will the 2.25" spacer vs. the 2" spacer make much difference in the way of potential headaches associated with driveshaft, adjustable control arms, etc.?

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And TW....

You stated that with a 2" inch suspension lift you do NOT need to relocate the front or rear track bar. Same question....does the 2.25" spacer vs. the 2" spacer change that?