101 Radio Body Panels

Did you see the article back in Six Stud - 3 editions back ?

Failing that, if they're buggered, why not cut a hole in them and see what holds them in from the inside ? My new 'uns are going to be made in galvanised steel !

Steve

In article , Graham G writes

That goes for the ones behind the 2nd row doors on the 110 too...

How do I get they orf?

Regards,

Simonm.

Dunno, on the 101, there are some self tappers and a smidgeon of pop rivets, all cunningly concealed behind at least three other panels. It is, I am afraid, a bugger to get to.

Steve

I did, I followed it when I did the ones on the GS. There were several glaring omissions, such as two rivets cannot be replaced without removing the seat, and a further half dozen cannot be replaced without removing all the filler assembly on the one side. It was a complete b*****d to do.

Had a look again this evening, it looks as though I have to un-rivet a large panel to the roof, remove all the cross bracing and all the verticle bracing, then remove the capping, remaining pannels and battery box etc. If it goes smoothly I recon half a day each side. If it goes like the ones on the GS then a day plus, each side.

Trouble is that with the above proceedure, it looks as though I'm going to have to bugger up all the paint on the inside too :o(

I know what holds them, thats the trouble. They are kind of slid in, so that they have to be lifted up before they will come out. This means that all the nice bodywork that is above them and the caping has to be removed.

My new 'uns are going to be made

If you want my advice and can afford to do so get them made in stainless, you really don't want to do the job more than once a lifetime. Secondly, you won't be able to sus out where the holes are in the panel until you have removed it as everyone is different (drilled as built), therefore you wil have to remove the panel before you can make the new one. Further to this it leaves no room for error, and as a galvanised one is likely to need the holes re-drilling out, you are on a looser to begin with. Stainless would be the best bet as it means you vcan drill it as required without fear of buggering up the zinc coating. Should have thought the cost would be pretty similar. There's a chap that advertises mild steel ones in the club (rob hallam??), he may be able to make stainless ones or be able to give you a pattern to work off. I can't afford either solution, so it will be mild steel for me with lashings of oil paint and silicon.

Graham

I'm making my own ! I am very, very lucky to have all the stuff at work to do it. I am (will be...) using hankbush fixings to screw the little bleeders in.

Steve

Is it not possible to chop the panel into pieces using a jigsaw or nibbler and thus make it easier to remove? pop rivets can me removed using a chisel and brute force too - especially if the panels is scrap.

I've always seen references to these panels that are 'right buggers' in six stud, but it seems that they must have been lost when the ambis were conveted :) (as i havent noticed any horribly corroded panels on mine!)

Getting it OUT isn't the problem, putting it back is !

Without looking, I think the Ambi still has them, but the body will give it much more protection than on the GS, where the tilt drips straight down the offending bit.

Steve

Don't think its that the tilt drips down it that causes it. The problem comes in the nature of the design. It sits directly behind the wheel, and there is a space that can accumulate dirt. That in its self isnt the problem, it appears as though the designers left enough of a gap for water and dirt to emply out of this channel. However as time passes this gap gets filled up and the panel begins to rot from the inside out. Everyone I have ever seen has been full of dirt and rotted from the inside. I'm sure there must be scope for a design modification to stop it happening.

Graham

Graham G wrote: >However as time passes this gap gets

That's true too - mine are literally packed with mud.

I'm sure there

I agree. I'll have to have a go myself.

Steve

If you come up with any suggestions I'd be very interested. Esp if i haven't doen this one yet. Equally if you were able to fabricate stainless ones, I might be interested, although have a set of mild steel ones on the shelf.

Graham

Mine is up for his MOT tomorrow, then we are off to Gaydon and across to Pembrokeshire after that. Then I'll do the panels, for the cost of materials.

Steve

Might see you on or after gaydon!

Graham