Almost too embarrassing to tell, but my first attempts in off roading were not too good. I got stuck in the small sand hole and had only one tire spin in low and high gear mode. The same in a small tire rut crossing.... nothing you can do. Why would the traction control not kick in? It does on snow surface when you accelerate.
any help
In news: snipped-for-privacy@19g2000hsx.googlegroups.com, ralleboy wibbled :
Does the Disco II have traction control, was that not introduced on the III?
Yeah, it does, i guess his TC wont be working & it will be an auto with no diff lock.
In news:c snipped-for-privacy@pipex.net, Nige wibbled :
I stand corrected, thanks Nige.
I think Nige owned one for a few minutes..... ;-)
-- "For those who are missing Blair - aim more carefully."
To reply direct rot13 me
bURRt the 101 Camper
... and did the same thing about 20' in front of me on a steep hill, which I didn't fancy stopping on. Wheels spinning, smoke coming from front tyre ... I'm fairly pleased he got it moving again ... ;)
On a DII the traction control will kick in progressively above around
2500rpm, trick to getting out of this situation is to allow revs to build, if the TC isn't working you can try applying the brake gently with the left foot whilst keeping the power on, this forces power across the axle to the stuck wheels at the back and may help you out. It highlights the major mistake LR made by deleting the centre difflock on most versions of the DII.Andy
When the rear suspension deflated on mine It couldn't get on to the back of the low loader the moment the plough at the back touched the tarmac. I don't think I'd like to try getting the revs up that high and touching the brakes to kick the TC in with only 10' in front and a 5' less than a foor away each side side...
I'm fairly sure mine has a center diff lock, I've fondled (oh er...) the transfer box and I think there is a spigot in the right place. I now carry a 10mm spanner but of course I forgot all about this when it refused to climb on the the back of the low loader...
The centre diff-lock is often fitted on the TX case but there is no lever in the cab connected to it (bizarre). Discoparts.co.uk do a kit to connect it back up if the spigot is there.
I don't think TC was needed in your case :-) but off-road, a dab on the brakes if the front wheels slip works a treat, effectively manual TC. Taught to great effect by the chaps at LRE Coniston!
Andy
I had a manual D2 and reckoned the TC was useless. It was only when someone told me that you need a fair amount of wheelspin before it kicks in did I realise what I was doing wrong. I was trying to trickle over obstacles as you would with a locked diff. Apparently, TC doesn't like that.
The TC is brilliant, but I still agree with the guy who said that a locked centre diff helps you *before* you lose traction - the TC waits until you are in trouble and then tries to sort it out. I know which I prefer.
Well I've got three of the buggers and while they are good, they're not the be-all and end-all by a long stretch. They have to be engaged and disengaged, and they don't always do it when you want them to, plus of course if they're locked and one wheel slips, this can often make the other wheel slip which can slide you sideways. Ditto when you turn, a locking diff will *force* wheels to break traction and on a slippery uneven surface this again can make the truck move sideways into something you'd rather it didn't. Having said all that, it's ludicrous what you can get over with them. You do have to be careful when off-roading with trucks that don't have them though as you can get to places that they can't get you out of!
I reckon the ideal setup would be what I thought the landies had these days, a TC system that would try to keep the wheels turning at approximately the same speed by applying brakes per-wheel even if you were just crawling. You'd have to have some means of turning it on or off though to stop it kicking in when you were going round roundabouts ;-)
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