Disco II Diff Lock

Had the center diff lock warning light come on this morning. Clever, this motor isn't supposed to have a center diff lock, it has (semi-useless[*]) electronic traction control insread. Anyway I guessed the the picture of the transmission layout with a cross in the middle would be the diff lock but thought I'd check in the handbook. No image of the light icon or indeed *any* warning light in the dash at that position... Rang dealer (it was going into have the new rear brake discs and pads looked at as they hadn't bedded in after 3,000 miles). They didn't recognise the lamp description and where a bit unsure about it being ok to drive the 20+ miles to them.

Now on tarmac is it pretty obvious when going round a corner if the diff lock is actually in? I assume the outside tyres hop, skip or otherwise complain that they can't go round fast enough but is that a correct assumption or do things break first?

[*] Semi useless in that if you aren't moving or moving very slowly and a wheel spins the traction control doesn't cut in to stop that spinning wheel. As happened when trying to get the thing on to a recovery wagon when the backend was deflated and the tow hitch was grounding last month...

Now all this has me wondering, this Y reg DII obviously has the were with all for a proper center diff lock, seems a shame not to be able to use it. Does a Disco I have a manual diff lock selector on the H/L shift? Would the cables, links and mounting plates etc fit a Disco II?

I'm aware of various bodges with fabricated links or grovelling underneath with a 10mm spanner but just moving a lever inside has much more appeal. B-)

Oh and the rear brakes. After the front desk service people passed on the fact the motor had done about 3,000 miles since the previous non-bedded in set where fitted, they fitted another complete new set of rear discs and pads, gratis. Time will tell if this set bed in, strangely the inner

3/4" or so of the outer face of the discs appears to have some form of coating is that how they come?

Diff lock light? A wiring fault, it had gone out by the time I'd driven

10 miles. I still got 'em to look at it though.
Reply to
Dave Liquorice
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If you can find an area where there is a looseish surface, and then drive round in a circle on full lock, it will be immediately apparent if the diff is locked as you can hear/feel the tyres scuffing, as you've guessed. The same is probably true on clean tarmac, but it's more of a "don't feel quite right" thing. If you are doing a lot of short trips, the diffs will often unwind when you reverse so it can be hard to tell, particularly if it's wet. The 110 put itself in diff lock, with no light on, and I only found out when it wouldn't accelerate, then started slowing down! Completely mystified I went to reverse into a side road and there was na almighty band as the center diff unwound (and the light came on!). No reprecussions, it's still going strong

100,000 miles later......... (why do I get the feelig I'm going to regret saying than).

I've heard of similar - driving across extermely splippy field - no problem. Moving off on said field, not easy.

I've heard tell of vehicles where "everything was there" and people have simply added the appropriate levers and bits from diff-lock variants. I'm sure I read that LR had deliberately, for a while, arranged things so this couldn't be done - until they gave in and put the diff lock back.

The Genuine Parts one's come with a protective coating of gunge, which is supposed to be cleaned off when fitted. I don't think it's the end of the world if it isn't though.

Could be - an insufficently blanked off connector? Or maybe the Body Controller got it's knickers in a twist!

Richard

Reply to
BeamEnds

In message , Dave Liquorice writes

Put the hand brake on and jack up one front wheel. If the difflock is engaged then you will not be able to turn the wheel (make sure it is in neutral).

Yes you should be able to get all the bits you need to enable the lever to work.

TC will not work until the engine is doing over 1,200 - 1,500 rpm.

Reply to
Marc Draper

When trying to get the thing onto the recovery wagon with one spinning rear wheel I'm pretty sure the revs would have been higher than that.

It's quite steep hill onto the back, even steeper when the road isn't flat and the recovery truck is parked facing up hill. Probably some clutch slip though.

The TC does work as I've had it cut in going up snowy hills.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Good, it felt fine even on quite tight corners, I'd expect some form of complaint.

Probably down to a technique. From rest one would normally be gentle and try your best not to get the wheels spinning in the first place. Perhaps with TC you have to be a bit brutal until (if) the motor is moving.

From what I've read elsewhere early DII's where not much different underneath from DI's. A few years after launch they started to fit transfer boxes without the diff lock bits, presumably on a cost basis. I've an early DII (2001) and the transfer box has the bits. I'll have to track down a breakers with a few DI's and see if I can get the bits.

Anyone know anything about Nigel Price, Stanegate Garage, Newbrough near Hexham? Not a breakers but an independant LR specialist, much rather use someone like that than the dealers.

These look as if they are painted black and possibly the metal blued over the inner 5/8" or so of the flat wearing face.

Looked electrical, winking and flickering before coming on steady. Then a few flickers and winks before staying off. I msut grovel underneath and have look sometime, bit cold and wet today.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Knew him in off-road racing circles many years ago. Haven't seen him for ages.

Nice chap, well regarded.

Reply to
Dougal

Blue-black waxy stuff, used for moisture-proofing in storage. I've always been meticulous about cleaning it off before fitting new discs - I can't see the waxy nature being any good to brake pads at all. And it's a total bastard to get off.

Reply to
Rich B

Petrol or brake cleaner both remove it fairly easily.

Reply to
EMB

I'd expect that to be over the entire face though not just the inner edge. The boundary between bright shiny metal and this bluey/black is well defined. It does look as if it is coming off/wearing through this time though.

Quite agree, now fronts the heat would burn most things off but rears don't get anything like as hot.

Not my problem...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

So they've put it on with the coating in place, and it's wearing off.

But a reason why the fitter didn't make the extra effort to clean them up before he fitted them.

Reply to
Rich B

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