OT - building a curved fence

Yes that helps thanks! and is pretty much what i was thinking/hoping! I have already visited B&Q and been confused by the choice! (though i found the treated section!)

I will look for some fresh looking rails with no knots in.

The radius isnt too bad as its a gradual curve. I suppose that the amount of uprights i require depends on how well i manage to bend it to go flush?

Any recommendation on how long my uprights should be? I suppose that if i make them so that they go as far down the inside of the wall as they can without touching the floor would be strongest. I also assume I am best drilling and rawlplugging and then screwing into breezeblock type wall blocks to fix posts to them?

In message , Tom Woods writes

Try uk.rec.gardening

Yes

Dynabolts or similar - rawlplugs won't be up to the job.

Do you think the brickwork is upto the stresses imposed by bent timber? if not, think about burying the end in a bucket of concrete.

depends on the material and thickness of the blocks - consider coachbolts (or similar) and dirty girtbig washers.

You can make curved timber by laminating it - use dressed strips thin enough bend to the required radius, make a jig to hold them in shape and clamp and glue using a marine grade waterproof glue. Then finish as you normally would. JD

Have a look for a local timber yard, the one I use is a fraction of the price of B&Q for far better timber.

Greg

If you've got the energy then dig good post holes about 2 feet deep and concrete the uprights in, 3"x3" treated timbers are the norm. Then you won't need to fix to the wall at all and won't put stress on it, remember the wooden fence will give naturally in the wind and transmitting that to a rigid wall is not the best idea.

Greg

the brickwork aint too bad, though it isnt perfect. im only after 3 foot of woodwork on the top, and using concrete introduces another few quid of cost per post and some more work.

the blocks are the size of breezeblocks but solid (no hole in the centre).

its a fairly nice area (as ex/council estates go) but we seem to be getting an influx of apprentice chavs from a road or two over(which has deaths from gun crime rather than old age). Im not expecting it to withstand a lot of force but mainly want it to keep prying eyes out and remove the temptation.

According to my book of words you can curve timber by making a series of deep parallel cuts about an inch apart according to required radius. Never tried it though.

You can - always struck me that this introduces much larger surface area and is therefore not suitable for outdoor applications.

The laminating method described above is IM(NS)HO much better for this type of job.

Like William says, kerfing is a terrible method, except in indoor applications, and only when its hidden well. Its alright for making templates for laminations though.

Steve

Or steaming. Building a steamer big enough could be an interesting project!

I can't see the point of going to all that trouble, why not just knock the wall down and rebuild it to 6 ft following the straight line on your deeds??

Martin

I would have thought that the bricks would be more expensive than wood for the fence, and judging by how long it took me to rebuild one end of the wall it would take a lot longer than working with wood! :)

I will check out the price of blocks that match the existing to see if i can just build 3 or 4 more rows ontop of it and but some buttresses on the inside.