Rag tops

If your vehicle was hard top you will be missing two rear tie down points either side of the tailgate, you can buy these and rivet them on though I believe. Hope this helps, Fergus

Should be a pair of prongs on the galvanised corner piece next to the tail light, plus a bolted on prong about level with the inside of the tail light and a couple of inches below it. JD

Not a very clear view but the hook is supposed to look something like this:

Is that a special landrover drivers knot in Pic 1 :)

LOL!, The original canvas rope chafed through and snapped during windy weather, The blue nylon washing line did as second best for a time wound round the hooks :)

Steve.

On or around Mon, 1 Sep 2003 20:25:30 +0000 (UTC), Stephen Hull enlightened us thusly:

just been looking at your painting site... very good site it is too. I suspect i've not the patience to achieve a really good finish, so it's as well that on my vehicle it doesn't really merit it!

weather looks reasonable for it today, mind, might get the rest of the primer/undercoat done. Too hot the other day, paint was drying before it got out of the tin, almost. Mind, it's got splattered with mud again now. In an ideal world, I'd not have the thing in use... someone the other day was taking the piss and saying "are you ever going to finish painting that thing?"

I tend to go over the top painting vehicles in a higher standard than necessary even on Land Rovers, I suppose it could be something to do with me having to show an example, But I couldn't live with the fact if someone said my paint work was crap IYSWIM.

I must agree to painting Landys in any old paint and in any old manner will suffice most of the time but there are the occasional few who require a better than average paint job on their vehicle. Even I have shelved paint work during these unusual hot days eagerly waiting for cooler more suitable painting conditions.

I've had to abandon painting my S2A due to more pressing things, I just haven't had the time to do anything on it since August 2001.

To make things worse, As I tried to move the Landy out the garage a few weeks ago I ripped a huge hole in the canvas and bent one of the hood sticks in the process as it caught the door catch.

The clutch had siezed and I had to start it up in gear,

I've got even more work to do on it now :(

Steve.

On or around Tue, 02 Sep 2003 21:42:58 +0100, Tim Hobbs enlightened us thusly:

drive in low gear and stand on all 3 pedals at once. but then again, you said

so that won't work.

don't like the sound of that one, sounds like a recipe for bent conrods.

erm. last time I had a stuck clutch, I freed it more-or-less by accident by cornering hard enough to break traction on one wheel... that wasn't on a Land Rover though.

driving forwards and backards with feet on clutch and brake worked on an old tractor. You could try jacking up one wheel, putting it in top gear (more torque transmitted) and trying to turn the wheel that's in the air, with some suitable bar or other.

depends how well stuck it is really.

On top of everything else thats gone wrong a new canvas is also on the cards. Can you still buy them with a sun roof sewn in?

Steve.

My clutch appears to be the opposite having complete travel to the floor but without actually doing anything, just limp pedal pumping with no actuation movement, if that makes sense.

I think it may be the lower clutch cylinder at fault :(

Steve.

That's what mine is doing.

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

Have a look underneath as colleague depresses clutch pedal (we are talking about a 2/2a here??)

Slave cylinder is below drivers side floor on these and you can see if there is any travel in the rod, if not try removing the plate on the top of the clutch pedal box under the bonnet - if you can see movement in that rod then it is your slave cylinder.

Slave cylinder repair kits for a 2a are about a fiver and you can get a whole new (pattern) cylinder for about a tenner (but you'll need the rod from the old one). It can be refitted by getting the driver's floor up - you could try without doing that but I'd not fancy it.

If you remove it and decide to replace the flexible pipe then make sure you get sent the correct one. Twice now I have been sent a SWB flexible brake pipe which is shown as an alternative part number - on mine, at least, these will not fit the clutch slave cylinder as they have a slightly longer metal sleeve on the cylinder end than the original pipe and this sleeve fouls the bulkhead - Paddocks claim that's all they stock so I'd try elsewhere.

Graeme

I can manually move the clutch lever from underneath the vehicle but thats all, the clutch still doesn't work.

I renewed the slave cylinder a couple of years ago when I fitted a new clutch, The master cylinder is also quite new.

I suspect the problem is either leaking slave cylinder seals or the push rod has somehow become disconnected.

The clutch worked fine one minute then suddenly the pedal went all the way to the floor without actuating the clutch lever. The vehicle has not been used for nearly two years, It's just stood in the garage awaiting bodywork completion. I'll get round to finishing the vehicle one day but by that time it'll probably need painting again. :(

Good point :), I'll remember that when I get round to replacing the slave seals.

I'll have another look at the clutch mechanism over the weekend just to refresh my memory as to why it's not working.

Cheers,

Steve.

Sounds like the seals have gone - especially if you renewed them then did not use the vehicle for ages. I'd try bleeding it first though - you may get lucky (I never seem to so somebody must)

Graeme

On the 2a (and earliar) the shaft operated by the slave cylinder is linked to the shaft that operates the release bearing by a short tube. Torque is transferred by two pins rivetted through the tube and the shafts, and it is possible that one of these has sheared. JD

Pray it's the outer one of the two - the inner is a bugger to get to without splitting the bellhousing from the engine

Graeme

I forgot to mention it's a 2A 1970.

I've just had a look at the clutch mechanism and the problem appears to be a broken shaft collar (don't know the official name) just where the clutch operating shaft goes into the gearbox, At this point I can just see the clevis pin with a split pin through it and the broken coller which is what the clevis pin is supposed to be fastened to.

With the collar being split wide open the operating shaft is simply turning in the collar without activating the clutch mechanism at all. I can move the clutch lever with just my fingers to both ends of it's travel with no effort whatsoever.

How big a job is it to replace this split collar thingy?, There is no mention of the collar in the Haynes manual, will I need to remove the gearbox or just open the bell housing to replace this collar?.

I hope the way I've described this fault makes sense?.

Steve.

I wonder if this tube is the collar I've previously described?. :(

Steve.

Sounds like it is. Not a big job to replace - with the gearbox out. Without removing the gearbox? Never done it, but it may be possible. JD