source for petrol pipe / hose 110 V8

Sep 01, 2008 32 Replies

Hello all, Due to my fuel starvation issues ('86 110), I want to replace all the fuel lines from tank to engine and back before I delve into the carbs. The fitting on the in-tank pump and tank return connector is 8mm OD, so I'm looking for 7mm ID flex hose to get a good fit, but I can only seem to fnd 6 or 8mm stuff. Does anyone know of a mail order source for this? Looking to pay around 2.50 /m (price of 6 or 8 on ebay). Otherwise do you think 6mm ID will be OK?



Thanks,



Andrew


On or around Mon, 1 Sep 2008 04:25:49 -0700 (PDT), "Andrew T." enlightened us thusly:

8mm and hose clips?

Although the 8mm OD will be 6mm bore anyway, I wouldn't wonder.

If you're talking rubberoid fuel hose, then it'll stretch.

However, normally you use rigid pipes with rubber at the ends. You could use 8mm OD micorbore copper, which should clip nicely in place of the existing pipes on the chassis. Although if it's plastic pipes (most things are these days) I doubt that's where your problem lies, to be honest.

what engine? I had loads of fun with a twin-choke carb on a 2.5 petrol, in the end determined there was a very small amount of spooge in the bottom of the carb, between the 2 barrels in a bit where it was easily overlooked.

yeah, I reckon the 8mm OD will be 6mm ID anyway as you say, I have some 8mm ID rubber stuff and that is too loose fit for my liking, even with clips etc, hence my desire for 6 or 7. The existing system (1986 V8 + solex carbs) is a mixture of rubber,

8mm copper and original steel & plastic pipe. I also do not think it is the pipes, but I want to replace the whole lot with 1 piece of rubber as a final test, also bypassing the main filter on a temporary basis as the tank looks very clean inside and the new in-tank pump I have fitted has a very fine filter on the pickup. Is there any reason why it shouldn't be rubber all the way from tank to carbs and back?

Cheers, Andrew

On or around Mon, 1 Sep 2008 05:55:35 -0700 (PDT), "Andrew T." enlightened us thusly:

I'm betting on fuel filter, if you've not changed it, or carb issues. I don't see why you shouldn't use flexi all the way along, except for neatness and cost.

The only specific pipe issue I can think of which would cause starvation is if a rigid pipe has got dented and made a restriction in it. The normal pipe bore is such that it has plenty of capacity.

Thanks Austin, The fuel filter element currently has a large hole in it, in order to eliminate this from the list of possible causes. I really think it will be crud in the carbs, but the existing pipe setup is such a mish- mash of different types, connectors etc that I want to replace it, at the same time also eliminating this from the possibles. I replaced the pump due to the old terminals on top of the old pump corroding away. This had no effect on the problem. I did actually disconnect the fuel lines from the carbs and turned on the pump, there was a fair flow of fuel coming out so I think it is OK, but how much fuel does the V8 need at full power going up hill towing a 2 ton trailer, quite a lot I think. The problem only happens at long uphills (like when the float bowls have time to empty??), I'm guessing the float valve thingy full of crud, or something further in the carbs (solex). Cheers, Andrew

Or a kanckered flexable one that collapses under suction. Maybe just a thin inner layer or flap that comes across the bore.

Solex on a V8 - that's news to me.

As to fuel flow required, it's easy to work out. Let's assume fuel consumption of 5MPG towing said trailer uphill at 30MPH. We need 6 gallons per hour of fuel to do that (which equals 1 gallon every 10 minutes, which is a bit under a pint a minute). Try measuring the flow from the pipe at the carbs, and so long as it's greater than a pint every minute all should be well.

Yes, solex it is, also called stromberg I think CD175, short fat round ones as opposed to the tall thin round SU's a frightening calculation in =A3 / minute! But an interesting one that I will test when I fit the new pipes. Andrew

Well it is an in tank pump so no suction from that point forward, so I don't think that is the issue, but thanks for the idea. Andrew

I'm with Dave on the last bit, when someone's pushed some copper pipe or steel into the rubber pipe it usually shaves some rubber off as they never seem to smooth off the sharp ends of the metal pipe where it's been sawn and consequently part blocks the system. To find out you will have to remove each joint and inspect the bore of the rubber pipe and it could be hard to see. Best to replace the lot I reckon.

Martin

Ahhh.... with you now. In my mind a Solex is that abomination fitted to the Series II 2.25 petrol.

Could be the flow waggling a flap across the bore, see Martins post. Suction was really for the pipe collapse.

Good point, might not be suction, but high flow could cause a flap to fold into the stream, and also a good reminder to check the ends of the metal tube before pushing on the new rubber pipe.

Andrew

Huh? Mine came with a Zenith IV. Possibly not original, as the engine's not the original, it was built as a diesel.

I swapped it for a Stromberg & it does a *lot* more mpg now, as well as going faster.

For reasons best known to themselves LR always refer to Stombergs as Solex - maybe when Solex went bust Stromberg took on the mantle, or is Stromberg a type of carb, as opposed to a brand?

Cheers Richard

I've never heard Strombergs connected with the word Solex but, never matter.

I can't understand why you're trying to replumb this thing without doing the easy things first. You already appear to have doubts about the carbs, so get in there and see what you find. That bit's easy. Whilst you're there be sure to check the carb diaphragms - they have a habit of growing holes.

Also associated with Zenith, one bought out the other, don't know who turned out superior or even if they're not all part of one of the major motor manufacturers now.

Well, I reckon it will take me less time to re-plumb the lines that it would to remove and dismantle both carbs. Anyway as I said before the lines are a mix of old, new, bodged bits so I want to replace them anyway. Yes, I have new diaphragms on order, I hate those things, even if they are not holed you can't get the old ones back in as they seem to expand with age. Andrew

Well, I reckon it will take me less time to re-plumb the lines that it would to remove and dismantle both carbs. Anyway as I said before the lines are a mix of old, new, bodged bits so I want to replace them anyway. Yes, I have new diaphragms on order, I hate those things, even if they are not holed you can't get the old ones back in as they seem to expand with age. Andrew

Bit pointless putting the old ones back anyway, they're usually knackered. Don't forget to fill the dampers with oil.

Martin

Currently branded as Burlen Fuel Systems

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who also make SU Zenith and Amal carbs and supply lots of bits.Derek Kato 200TDi Disco Scooby Outback Wagon there are more questions than answers the more I find out the less I know

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