Started the axle strip down...

steve uttered summat worrerz funny about:

I just used a forked chisel type splitter that you whack with an 'ammer. Found them to be much mure effective than the press types as they tend to f*ck the threads less. You do need to be careful with the rubber boots though.

Lee D

So you don't unscrew the buggers first ?

Steve

steve uttered summat worrerz funny about:

As in the castle nut? or are we like removing them from the track rods themselves now?

If you mean the castle nut.. yes.. split pin out (broken mine and got remain stuck for a latter session!), undo castle nut and wallop.

If the castle nut turns the threaded bit as well then insert spitter and wallop once then retry castle nut. If it carries on then invest in a nut splitter (huge satisfaction for little effort!)

If you mean the tre from the track rod then soak in plus gas for a good while... if that doesn't help.. heat it like a hot thing, clamp the TRE in a vice, mole grips on the track rod fixed good and propper and give it some therapy... check of course it's being turned the correct way to undo as some have left hand threads but I canner recall which right now.

Lee D

Steve's given a bit of an explanation. Let me try too.

What you haven't picked up on is that torque is a turning action, not just a pull (that's the lb. bit) and you also need to involve the distance away from the shaft centre line at which that pull is being applied (that's the ft. and in. bit)

Say you want to generate torque by wrapping a string round the shaft and pulling on the string.

The torque is the pull (measured on your spring balance) multiplied by the radius of the shaft where the string is wound round.

So if your shaft is 2 inches in diameter, it has a radius of one inch. If you then apply a 40 lb. pull on the string you will generate 40 lbf.in of torque.

Or put another way: Torque (lbf.in) = Pull (pounds) x 0.5 x shaft diameter (inches)

Fork type splitters f*ck the ball joint or tie rod end they are used on. The should NOT be used on any part that you wish to re-use.

look I knew I should have hit the bottle tonight, this may have been simpler ;-)

So if the hole on the flange is 2 inch for sake of argument from the centre of the pinon how many lbs should the spring balance show to be within tollerance of the guideance for new bearings? (30 to 40 lbf in in the book)

Lee D

Dougal uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Dougal , cheers... thats just registered now...

The radius is 2 inches. A pull of 20 lb will therefore give you 2 x 20 = 40 lb.in

Using the flange like that may not be very accurate. You need to overcome the initial 'reluctance' to rotate then keep the string at a tangent to the shaft whilst you attempt to measure the pull - so you're moving the spring balance round with the flange as it moves. Not very easy. That's why the string is often suggested as it is so easy. Is there not a cylindrical bit on the flange that you could wrap string around?

Dougal uttered summat worrerz funny about:

I'm sure there will be, I'll take a peek tomorrow and mesure the radius. Bit short on string but a nice length of wire should have the desired affect.

Glad I checked this I'd have been up the creek otherwise (like lb ft wise!)

Makes me wonder about the IIa now but it doesn't whine or moan so I guess I've forgotten all the above. I know Ashcrofts instructions were pretty idiot proof at the time.

Lee D

So ? T'buggers have to come off somehow ! Any other techniques ? There are 6 of 'em to split/ diconnect.

Steve

Press type remover, or a solid whack with a hammer onto the side of the bit that holds the taper.

On or around Sun, 30 Jul 2006 00:02:19 +0100, steve enlightened us thusly:

I use a fork-an-ammer one on buggered joints. You can also get a posh ball-joint separator with a fork and a hinged screw-arm thing which presses down on the top of the thread - correctly used, this shouldn't damage anything.

You can also pound on the outer periphery of the arm with a biggish hammer, as per ascii-art below: __ | | | | ______| |__________________ hammer | / \ ---> | / \ arm here |___/ \_______________ | | | joint |

hammering in that direction avoids an (slight) risk of damaging the arm. Get the nut off first, of course. Enough hammering will normally make the joint jump out of the arm. Some of them take quite a lot of hammering though.

You can hit it quite hard, they're generally big strong bits of metal.

Naturally, if you break things by following this advice, then I don't want to know. I've not broken any though.

Having said all that - unless the joints are new or near-new, they're not sufficiently expensive as to worry about - just lay in a stock of new ones :-)

Thanks Austin - your artistic skills are better than mine (so pathetic that I didn't bother with a pic).

As you allude, you want a FBH (feckin big hammer) and to give it a bloody good swat - if it takes more than a couple of hits you're either being a wimp or the hammer is too small.

Can't get the 'kin nuts off - the tapers are turning. Why couldn't they put a spanner flat beneath them ?

I'll have to check if they are standard parts, because I need to cut off

Steve

Get a big lever and apply force to the ball cup such as to seat the taper. ...... Assuming that there's something against which to lever.

Air impact wrench - buzz them undone.

Steve Taylor uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Nut splitter, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it.

With two 101's it's a must ;-)

Oh and if my memory serves me right some of the 101 TRE are quite hard to get ahold of but hopefully I'm wrong. a call to Darren should reveal all... and how much effort you need to put in to get them off.

Lee D

Now you're talkin'

Steve

On or around Sun, 30 Jul 2006 11:38:22 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:

air impact gun comes in handy for that bit. If the joints face upwards, try putting a jack under the joint and lifting it.

failing that, it's nut-splitting time, either with a nut splitter or a BFO cold chisel and a BFO hammer.