Na, just a fix, the rumble is now a fingernail / blackboard noise. I think the pinion is sliding freely into the diff cage, hence teh marks/weear metals.
Still, not a bad idea though.....
Steve
steve uttered summat worrerz funny about:
If only I could afford at the mo I'd do it but needs elsewhere are greater.. Like Percy needs to get back on the road, he's getting Ichy tyres ;-)
How the hell has the pinion got to that extreme though? Has the outer bearing failed big time allowing the bevel gear to mince the diff?
Lee D
First I've got to get mine in to the state you have yours... Bugger, that's all I need :-(
Steve
I just removed the swivel seals, undid the tre at the drivers wheel, unbolted the steering damper from the axle (3 bolts) and then pulled the swivel pins... be ready to catch the lower pins bearing as it'll plonk on to the floor in to what ever you have catching the EP90.
Swivels pull out pleanty far enough to draw the shafts from the diff.
Looking earlier today you may have a tight fit with the spreader where it's closest to the parabolic spring on the drivers side of the axle... though I guess it's not much different from the rear ones unless the rear springs are spragged out on hangars, I can't recall them being so.
Lee D
Tre ? Tyre ? So did the wheels come off or not ?
Greased my swivels :-))
Nice trick. Thanks.
Steve
On or around Wed, 26 Jul 2006 23:31:15 +0100, steve enlightened us thusly:
track rod end.
Bloody hell. Wracked my brains thinking what he meant !
Sound tip mind.
Steve
So, we are saying:
1.) Jack vehicle and support diff on axle stands. 2.) Remove wheels. 3.) Drain EP90 if applicable, 4.) Remove seals. 5.) Remove swivel pins. 6.) Push swivel housing, causing half shafts to lift out 7.) Spread diff and remove. etc etc. to reassemble, reverse above procedure yada yada ?I don't think the pinion teeth will be knackered looking at the pictures, but getting it out will be fun.
Steve
steve uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Yep spot on Austin.
First things first
UNDO THE PINION NUT! Guess you've BTDT before so you will have already fabricated a tool to bolt to the Pinion/Prop flange to undo this. Then again maybe you didn't need to when fitting the Locker on the rear. Important you do this early in my opinion.
Remove drivers Track rod end Remove steering damper bracket from axle
Both the above allow the link arm to be shifted so the diff can be removed. No need to do the passenger side one.. all assumes a RHD vehicle.
Safer to do this on the ground so you can give the TRE some wellie as required depending on your tool of choice.
then do the below after chocking the rear wheels
You may find another pair of axle stands useful to carry the weight of the cubs complete with half shafts to stop and sudden movements.
H'mmm rather you than me... I'd replace the pinion having seen that mess... It'll soon chew the crown wheel otherwise. You may also have trouble setting the pinion height correctly given the top must be deformed if the picture is owt to go by IYSWIM
Lee D
Thanks for the all preceding. We should write this up for the mag.
I'm not sure. The crown wheel is currently perfect, looking at it, so probably the spacer that's in now will still fit. Remeshing the pinion without the end notes will be interesting, but with decent measurement gear (which we have) not impossible. Probably.
BTW Don't forget you have a TWELVE THOU total spread limit. Measure very carefully !
Steve
Yes, the old bastard hasn't destroyed that tool. I took the pinion nut off so I could replace the oil seal, and I needed to turn off 1/2 thou and polished the flange where the seal fitted too.
Steve
Indeed.. no doubt Morphs diff would have looked like your's given a few more miles. Thing is at warp factor 5 on the motorway it' can't be heard so if they go at the start of a trip your stuffed, especially on a long run. I guess we were lucky.... could it be Landrover built in a self destruct date?
Got my sparkly new dial guage, just short of some way of fastening it at the mo... just a hole on the back of it of a bolt and nowt else, not impressed.
Been fabricating the spreader today... neat little device if it works, needs bolts yet and holes drilling it's 30mm by 10mm bar which I reckon should be enough for the amount of spread were looking at.. I may need to brace the top and bottom bars a little come the worest.
Also measures in mm and fortunately the military workshop manual quotes it as 0,33 mm which I recon is slightly smaller than a gnats c*ck ;-)
Lee D
No, the spindle is designed to be the primary clamp - but DO NOT clamp it to hard or you will fubar, and you will not be a happy bunny.
I make it 0.30 mm, and the difference is significant. My manual says 12 thou = 0.012 x 25.4 mm. Your measurment is 13 thou.
You could do with a finer thread than a standard 1mm metric, because spread is only a 1/3 rd of a rev, unless your leverage is working in your favour. Mine needs twice as much as the spread limit, so with a metric fine thread I have more than 1.5 revs to 12 thou spread.
Steve
On or around Thu, 27 Jul 2006 20:58:18 +0100, steve enlightened us thusly:
40 thou to the millimeter, near enough. I'd translate 12 thou as 0.3mm.Austin Shackles uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Right... having got my head around a thou and set the pinion height I now need to confirm one more thing.
The manual refers to the settings for tightening the pinion nut for new bearings it says to tighten the nut until around 250 fl lb wher upon the collapseable spacer beigins to collapse. From here on it advises that the rotaional force to turn the pinion should be between 30 and 40 ft lb (new bearings - old is somethingh closer to 25 ft lb)
How is this pull measured? On fish scales type spring balance through the flange bolt hole? I take it it's not the required turning force of a torque wrench on the pinion nut cos that would seem far too tight. I had to do similar with a bit of thin rope I recall when setting up the IIa transferbox after new bearings.
Lee D
Yep , double checked, I was working from memory.
Right, now got 4 days off , Caravan has gone for it's service, I want to have the Diff sorted and trailer sorted by the time I'm back at work. Least then I can run him to and from work for a while prior to setting off for Malvern with the caravan on.
I'll double check the distance on the bolts I'm using. I won't be cranking it up thats for sure.
Got to get the bolts on Monday, Today I'll mock up/sort the pinion height, leave the leather seal to soak overnight in some finest EP90 and then throw it together tomorrow ready for phase II of throw the spreader together and slide the diff in. Tueday can be fine tuning... like sort crappy stuff like split pins stuck in the track rod end & Another set of UJ's as two of the new ones are showing signs of excessive heat so they aren't right either. You never know I may even get him going again Tuesday we can live in hope!
Lee D
Lee_D uttered summat worrerz funny about:
OK I know I'm replying to myself but I've sussed it now...
Right.... it pays to have several workshop manuals covering the salisbury rebuild...
Defender one specifically mentions a spring balance... 101 Military workshop manual one leaves you to work it out for yourself, otherwise the article and paragraph is identical... dangerous given most things measured in lbs used by the Armed forces would tend to blow a big hole in the axle case.
Lee D
As you've realised it doesn't matter how you apply the torque - whichever you have the tooling to manage. You could apply this torque to the flange attachment nut once you've disconnected the flange counterhold.
BUT - read your manual carefully. The 101 Military manual quotes the desired resistance to rotation as 30-40 lbf.IN for new bearings - NOT
30-40 lbf.FT which is a figure 12 times higher. The inch figure is of the right order of magnitude.Dougal uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Well spotted! I thought it was a bit ott :-) So am I right in thinking that it'll be between 2.5 lb and 3.3lb pull on the sping balance? I'm confusing myself more as the spring balance makes no reference to ft or inches... just kg and lb.
Lee D
Remeber you're applying a TORQUE, the greater the lever arm the less the pull, so 1 lb ft is 1 lbf at 1 foot. 2 lbf at 6 inches etc., so the product of lbf and inches is constant.
Whole axle is coming out of Bob, when it stops raining, full strip down, rebuild and diff rolling
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