SWB Series IIA - Vibration & Noise

Hi all,

I have a metallic 'squeaking' appearing to come from the transmission tunnel area now accompanied by an increasing vibration. It only happens when the drive is engaged.

I had the UJ's on the rear prop done about 4 and a half years ago and am ashamed to say they have not been greased for years. It would appear that this has caught up with me. The rear diff was replaced by a sound recycled unit in April,the clutch has only about 15k miles on it and the gearbox/transfer box seem ok and have enough oil. Wheel bearings are sound.

I guess rear prop is the starting point? I have a couple of questions:-

(i) The flange bolts on the parking brake drum end are quite recessed ...is it easier to remove the brake drum?

(ii) I have ordered a new unit but have seen stuff about props being installed '180 degress' out of alignment. Is that irrelevant to Series vehicles?

(iii) I take it greasing the UJ's was more crucial than I bargained for!

cheers

Reply to
Shaun
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the flange bolts undo with a socket, just spin the prop till you get a good fit with a 13 mll socket/1/2 inch the spin next nut to same position.

as far as im aware it doesnt realy matter, whats more crucial is LUBRICATION. but even with correct lube excessive offroading/articulation can put severe strains on the props. which shortens their life, abit like my steering box ( see previous post)

andy

Reply to
Andy

all part of the fun!

Reply to
SimonJ

The 180 degree stuff does matter! It is simple to check, the 'prongs of the yolks nearest to each other on the prop should be in alignment. If they are correctly aligned, then the prop centre speeds up and slows down twice per revolution, but the ends run at the same speed as each other (if their flanges are parallel) resulting in a LITTLE vibration. If they are 180 degrees out then the flanges change speed with relation to one another, causing MORE sever vibration, like driving on eggshaped wheels almost! It is for this reason that the Constant velocity (CV) joint was developed, as it does not suffer from this effect.

Also, the effect is only noticed when the propshaft is not in a perfectly straight line, ie when its fittted on your vehicle!

||== __________________ ==|| flange || o==|PROPSHAFTSECTION|==o || flange ||== ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬ ==||

Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal... ;-)

Hope this helps a bit, good luck, Terry

Reply to
terry

Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was ever damaged by over-greasing.

Reply to
EMB

Ooops, not 180 degrees out, I meant 90 degrees....

Regards, Terry

Reply to
terry

As long as the grease doesn't pop any sort of seal... I know of greased bearings which have a seal to keep the dirt out, and having grease spurt out was a bad sign.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Thanks for all this. I've been held up though. The last mechanic (wjo was a professional) to disconnect the prop shaft from the output shaft flange clearly re-used butchered nuts (thanks mate). I've therefore only got two off. The other two I've made worse! It doesn't help the nuts are recessed and my spanners and sockets aren't a good fit.

Anyhow I am on my bike until I work out how to deal with 'butchered nuts' oooer missus ...any tips ...would heat help? They aren't in a good position for sawing.

Would any of those little cutting tools help or are they for hobby/craft work only?

Cheers

Reply to
Shaun

Angle grinder works OK - I use a small (3") air cut off tool normally for these. Take your time with them, and make sure the propshaft is supported before you cut the last one!

Remember you can spin the propshaft round if you lift a back wheel - make sure the rest are chocked, you'll have no handbrake.

Regards

William MacLeod

Reply to
William MacLeod

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