Swivel Pins or bearings?

Percy Failed his MOT amoungst other things on a wheel bearing which needed tightening up. This turned out as expected to be a swivel pin.

Now then, this is the first time I've had cause to remove a series swivel pin. Upon removal it appeared as though it may have been machined slightly thinner at the point where it sits in the bearing. Is this the case or is this wear thus causing the problem. I've removed one shim from the top pin and now the slack has gone but the steering feels like someones fighting it at the opposite end... It doesn't stick but is decidedly heavier.

Also at what point do people become aware it's a bearing issue? Is it a process of elimination or is there another way to work it out.

Cheers

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D
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If its anything like defender swivel pins you may have to play around with the shims. I did mine by the book and tested it with a spring balance to get the pre load right. It took me quite a while swapping shims over & retesting to get rid of the slack but not to be too tight on the steering. It could be worth while checking the thickness of the shim you've removed & putting a thinner one back in. this will give you a little more slack (which i belive is allowable in the MOT) and easier steering.

Stu

"Lee_D"

Reply to
HobGobSnakyWaky

Cheers Stu,

I've removed only 1 shim but it was quite a thick one, theres only 1 other there which is also quite thick. I think I.ll take the Pin allong to LRS and see what they say... if it's deemed ok then I'll have to get some thinner Shims.

I did our rangie my the book to but I was in a hurry on Percy. Now it's got the MOT I can sort it out properly. It's just this ridge on the pin that has me bafled at the mo as to if it's supposed to be there or if it's worn. I suspect the latter.

Cheers,

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

It is narrower a where it sits in the housing bush.

If the wheel can be rocked with hands in 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions *and* with hands in 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock then the bearings are suspect. If it only with hands in top and bottom, then either the swivel pin and/or bush is worn, or the lower bearing is worn.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

richard.watson wrote in news:31deee374c% snipped-for-privacy@ntlworld.com:

What does it do if it only requires a pre-load adjustment? (Fingers crossed....).

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

Assuming you mean that its a bit sloppy or tight - pull the swivel pin out cnd check it for wear, and as far as possible look down the hole to see if the bush is worn. If you are satisfied, then check that the fibre washer that sits in the bush is ok and put the pin back in. It's then simply a case of adding or removing shims until the appropriate spec is met (see Haynes for Workshop manual) - is that what you meant? Since the swivel pin/bush is effectively a plain metal bearing some wear in use is inevitable. The bush is made of a porus alloy or something and will absorb oil splashed up in the housing to provide lubrication, so lack of oil in the housing wil not help here! It's also why grease in a Series or Early Disco/90/110 swivel with a Railko bush swivel pin is not vnecesserily a good idea, IMHO.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

If it rocks top-bottom only then it's swivel pins, if it rocks in all directons then it's the wheel bearing.

If it's either, then change em. If the swivel pin is starting to wear, then tightening it bby removing shims will only mean it wearing quicker. The kits are readily available, and include the shims and bearings you need to do the job, it's not hard. The only thing you will need is a spring balance to set the pre-load.

Alex

Reply to
Alex

Cheers all ,

I'm inclined to beleive it is the swivel pin past it's sell by date. I've found the kit on paddocks site , can anyone tell me if the Stage 1 has the same swivel kit please as Percy has Stage 1 axles.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

No movement in any direction JD

Reply to
JD

Nope - not the same, the pin and bush are different FRC1942 and FRC1930 respectively.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

Rich the offending Pin is the one on the upper near side minus any steering linkages, does the pin come seperate to the cast bit that the bolts go through to the hub? Can't imagine it does but felt the need to ask....and do you have / can you get this item ? In which case I'd be adding it to the growing list of bits (rear mud flap extensions for the rangie classic both sides) That I need. It also doesn't appear to have any locking tabs on the bolts... am I alone or as some halfwit left them off in the past?

Not that I'm a vain tart or owt..(mudflap bits)...just don't want to spray crud all up my nice new caravan.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

The cast bit is part of the pin - it very definately should have tabs, I'm amazed that the bolts have not come loose!!! Don't worry about vanity, mud flaps are my best seller at shows!!!!

For obvious reasons I don't stock these pins, but I'll order one on Monday - though it'll be comming through LR Parts, so it could be two days or it could be............... (the record is three months for a Td5 Defender bonnet spare wheel pointy bit!!)

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

I agree, it definitly should have locking tabs. Although I confess to never having actually bent the tabs up on my SWB!

Alex

Reply to
Alex

Cheers,

I'm in no immediate hurry and that should fall nice for my restdays (days not months :-) ). I'll also take a peek to see if the other 3 pins have the tabs in situ.

Lee D

-- Project Percy - Jaguar 4.2 and Auto in to Series IIa 88 see it @

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Reply to
Lee_D

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