Tyred Out and Jacked Up

It's the "web" part that's given way, yes? So the jacking tube is pointing up at the sky when looking from the back?

You need to replace the rear crossmember to do the job properly, yours sounds like it's pretty rotten. A hundred and fifty quid for the parts, quite a lot for the labour to do it properly. Make sure to buy the crossmember with extensions, it'll make life easier to fit and the rear end may be thin anyway. A bottle jack will get you by for the moment, though I'd always recommend a trolley jack if you can spare the space to stow it as they're so much quicker and safer to use, especially the ones that lift in one stroke. Less time spent with lorries whizzing beside your head the better in my book.

No. It may be a lorry tyre? Have never seen an off road tyre of that brand.

Regards

William MacLeod

Richard - how much for the rear crossmember (with extensions) 1990 110 CSW TD

Anything else I'll need? (Apart from patience, skill, experience, welder, time.........) all of which (except the welder) I'm lacking!!

Cheers

Peter

Yes, I've got two on the front of my 109", same tread as Goodyear Extragrip (Army type) 7.50x16, done a lot of miles and hardly worn, can't knock 'em, not remoulds either.

Martin

Yep - good tyres, we've sold a lot of them and not had any complaints.

Derry Argue did this fairly recently, so his memory is probably fresh!

Ehh.. station wagon, take off towbar + wiring if fitted, drain, disconnect + drop fuel tank. Roll bar may need disconnected as well. Wiring for the back lights + fuel gauge goes through the chassis off side leg - well, you're going to be chopping + welding there so you'll have to take care of that. You'll do a better job if you have proper access to the top side of the chassis, ideally with no body on but that's a large job on a 110 SW! You'll probably get by with lifting the body to get access, it depends somewhat on how rotten your rear chassis legs are and where you have to cut the new extension overlaps. Some form of jig can be usefull to make absolutely sure that your new crossmember is in exactly the same place as the last one! Other than that you just have a few visible bolts at the back for the body (don't bother with spanners for these, cut them off as you don't have to worry about damaging the old crossmember) and one exhaust hanger, a few minutes with the grinder and a heavy lump of rusty metal full of mud drops with a lound clang onto the floor..... Make sure and paint the new one afterwards, especially around the welds and a dose of waxoyl wouldn't go amiss either. A blast from the jetwash to keep it clean on a regular basis to shift the muck that collects there and harbours damp will ensure you don't have to do the job again for some time!

I suppose it would be an idea to check very carefully first that the rest of the chassis is in good fettle, if it looks like you're going to need new outriggers or dumb irons soon as well then maybe saving the cash and putting it towards a new chassis is an idea.

Regards

William MacLeod

Arguably the tube is part of the crossmember, and so I'd view at as a warning that the rear crossmember is not happy. Mind you , under the latest rules thats not a MOT failure!

Ha! Going from where I live to where I used to! (Well, ok, Bratton, but spent a lot time in Trowbrige - Pee Wee's to be exact).

You should have rung here - I could have lent you one!

Can't say I have - but for emergencies who cares? BTW Bronco in Leek have a good price on Rangemasters - £85 inc VAT for 8 or 12 ply.

Richard

Possibly a few bolts etc (the tank has to come out, the anti-roll bar off and the tow hitch off). If you assumed all bolts (except the main towing hitch ones) would need relplacing then about £15.

A good time to have a look at the state of the tank.......

Richard