Tony Bond ( snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
15", 4-1/4 PCD, 4 stud, RWD type offset wheels?
Apr 28, 2007
38 Replies
Get a Pinto shoved in - you'll not regret it. The wiring connects the same as the Kent so no issue there. Should get marginally better fuel economy as well. Go for a 205 Injection motor if you can. The head has better flow than a carb one and it's unleaded. You can still use it with carbs.
Apart from re tax and insurance time possibly?
The kitcar is currently sporting a Luminition system and I guess that would be redundant with Pinto (that's crank timed isn't it)?
Hmm, if it's only marginal .. as we don't (or haven't so far) used it for any big miles ...
I already have the 2L lump sitting on an engine frame. It was out of my Sierra Estate and owned (well, driven by me as to start with it was my Company car) by me from new and never faultered once over it's 97k miles (when I broke the Seirra and excluding the cam belt once, 200 yards from home ). And that was including towing my mates Jaguar Cougar on a 4 wheeler trailer .. , 14' dinghy, folding caravan ..
I have ready for it a new oil pump, cam, spray bar and sump to clear the Escort Xmember. For the kit I have a raised strut brace, engine mounts (tacked awaiting welding) RS2000 throttle cable, front road springs, poly bushes and 2L Cortina rad (with modded in/outlets to suit Escort but can be put back) and 12" electric fan.
Things to do that I wouldn't have to with the 1600 Kent would be fit flow return fuel system (?), new exhaust (wrong side but currently nice stainless) and re-work the gear stick hole and mounts.
Things I'd probably have to do for both 1600 Kent or 2L Pinto would be new prop (although it might just be new nose piece on the 1600 as I think there are a different number of splines on the 1600 over 1300 ..?). The first prop I made up myself and served for 10 years. Then I got it re bearing'd professionally.
I would get a longer legged box with the Pinto (or could I use the 5 speed with the 13/1600's?).
All of the above would be 'worth it' if there was any chance of getting our 17yr old on as a named driver . (she want's to drive it)[1]. if not at the moment's (while the (£100) Rover and (£300) Belmont are still running .. ;-(
All the best ..
T i m
[1] If not the Ranger then it might be a Ka.T i m ( snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
VED would cost the same for 1600 or 2000. Can't imagine the insurance would be a big difference, if any.
But more than the (old) 1300 (£115) I guess Adrian?
Hmm, I must admit I haven't checked / changed in a while but just assumed that the little 1300 would be considered 'less risk' (in general) than a 2L (like my 1000cc BMW bike is seen as 'less risk' than a 1000 cc "Super-rocket" ..)?
Maybe my fears are more based around how any insurance company might respond to it being driven by a 17yr old rather than an 'old git' .. ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
Tax is the same no matter what you drive pre 2001 AFAIK. Certainly it makes no difference to mine if it has a 1L or a 5.7l V8 in.
No it wouldn't be redundant. The Pinto uses a mechanical points system the same as a Kent.
You don't need one. I don't have one, even on a 32/36 Weber..just plug the return union. The system runs at so low pressure it doesn't need one. Just make sure the float needle isn't worn.
Whatever you do, sounds like it's gonna be a lot of fun at the end of it.
There are two bands, and 1549cc or something like that is the cutoff point.
cheers, clive
My mistake.
Hmm, I swear I removed an ignition unit from the offside engine bay?
Ok, that would make one less thing to do. ;-)
Well, that's the hope but although we enjoyed building it all them years ago I don't really have the time (or money) atm to do what I'd like to do (you know, the sort of work that get's people that know what they are doing nodding in silent appreciation of your efforts / attention to detail).
All the best .. and thanks .. ;-)
T i m
So, today I was mainly stumbling on a set of 4 suitably scruffy / ideal / cheap 15" Pug alloys ;-)
A quick measure with the leatherman shows 107.95" PCD and a 63mm bore.
I'll probably have a quick measure up of the offset in a mo and see how close they are to the existing white spokes.
Interestingly, he also has loads of the basic steel Pug wheels (that look more like basic old Landy rims) but they are only 14" again.
So now I might need a set of 'off road' (but road legal) 195/70-15 tyres (as they should end up the same size as the current setup and I know that works) ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
T i m ( snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
Think Suzuki.
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Doubt anybody does 70 profile chunkies, though, you'll probably have to go to full profile.
Here y'go...
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Sahara, 195R15. Job done.
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Them is *proper* tyres...
...and 195 will fit on 2cv rims - I think the 4x4 may be getting some new rubber...
I must be looking in the wrong place Adrian .. all I can find on there that fits a 195/70-15 is the Michelin Synchrone (which is ok performance wize but not 'rugged' looking)
And that would be ok if I could stick with the existing 14" rims ..
Hmm, the Snow T10 comes in a 185(80?)14 and looks fairly rugged .. wonder how much though ..?
Them is monster truck tyres Adrian!
Nice .. ;-)
So, I've had a quick n rough measure up out there and have found the following ...
The existing 14" white spokes have a ~95mm offset. With the 185R14's on there's about 10mm between the inner top corner of the tyre and the spring cup on the damper. Any less offset or wider tyres / wheels may cause trouble. Under heavy braking (pre poly bushes and h/d front coils anyway, not tested properly since) the front tyres just clip the top and rear of the wheel arches (so couldn't be much fatter on either side).
The 15" Pug alloys look about ~110 mm offset so the tyre would probably foul the damper without a spacer.
The 14" Pug steels have a ~120mm offset but are narrower.
Some 13" Rosstyles I have are ~115mm offset but being smaller the tyre would end up short of the spring cup so would have more room on the inside ... hmmmm ...
So, stick the Rosstyles on for the moment, get the Colways off the white spokes and get them shot blasted / painted (as I obviously bought them in the first place for a good reason ). Find a set of the best looking / price 185R14's I can find and carry on driving ... ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
.T i m ( snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
Umm, offset is the distance between the mounting face and the centre line of the wheel...
Ah, ( .. makes sense) doh! (I said it was a long time since I looked into any of this) .. ;-(
That said, the distances I measured are useful (to me at least ) and help to demonstrate how well a wheel will (or will not) fit etc?
Is there a cheap simple wheel measuring gadget thing, before I try to make something do you know please?
I guess some big external calipers would do the rim width (with the tyre on) and a straight edge plus vernier depth gauge in the inside and some quick calculations?
All the best ..
T i m
T i m ( snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :
They may just have been very, very wide wheels...
Well, yes, but it won't take into account the things the offset really matters for - wheel bearing life, and steering.
You may find that the wheel actually has the size stamped/cast onto it somewhere...
Sounds about right to me...
Hehe .. they may have been eh! ;-)
I'd just be happy to have them fit! I can't really comment on the steering other than it's always been nicely light (considering the size of the tyres / vehicle weight etc). It's a bit weird atm as the springs are just too stiff (sorta done ready for the Pinto etc). I can stand on the front (all 16 stone of me) and it doesn't budge. ;-(
I've had a quote today of £45 each +Vat for some 'std strength +1" springs'.
That will be under the rust on the (once) white spokes then! ;-)
Ok, well I'll give it a better go tomorrow ...' if you can measure it you can manage it' etc ..
All the best ..
T i m
I'm guessing that *in general* if you built it yourself, you tend not to want to bend it.
And the sort of Yoof who has the drive and patience to build a kitcar isn't the sort to be gooning out the side window shouting at his mates at 60mph through town...
Quite probably. Sierra/Granada MK3 etc used electronic ignition. Cortinas, Capris, Granada up to MK2 and early Transits all used points.
My Scrote diesel is now £165 Fully Comp.
My Almera pertol, smaller engine and slower acceleration, is £225.
My Wife's Fiat Panda would be over £600.
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