Brake grease

Copper grease on the bolts, in the sliders, on the pad guide rails and on the back of the pads.

if it squeaks with the handbrake off and the car stationary then it is most likely the rear shoes squeaking against the back plate that needs a tiny bit of copagrease or ceratec

I think it's only when I apply the brakes while moving or releasing them afterwards but I'll check that later.

Thanks,

Peter.

: I think it's only when I apply the brakes while moving or releasing them : afterwards but I'll check that later.

Then it's probably pads or shoes wearing out, or a stone trapped. Generally they don't squeak while under load, because the forces in them jam them all together.

Ian

Pads are brand new (but bedded in). It's not squeaking under load, just when the brake pedal is moved.

: On Thu, 2006-09-07 at 12:11 +0000, Ian Johnston wrote: : > On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 12:04:37 UTC, Peter Spikings : > wrote: : > : > : I think it's only when I apply the brakes while moving or releasing them : > : afterwards but I'll check that later. : > : > Then it's probably pads or shoes wearing out, or a stone trapped. : > Generally they don't squeak while under load, because the forces in : > them jam them all together. : : Pads are brand new (but bedded in). It's not squeaking under load, just : when the brake pedal is moved.

Back of the pads it is, then!

Ian

Here is a contrary view to what has been posted so far: "Why You Should Never Use Copper Grease Anywhere Near Your Brakes"

I'm mindful this is going to roughen a lot of feather, but, it being a non-partisan reportage, I need not apologize for presenting what I have recognized a materially significant counterpoint..

The message from "Lin Chung" contains these words:

Most of it valid for bikes and for comparable bits in cars. However, the bit that bikes don't have - pads which slide in nasty rusty cast-iron guides are a good spot to put copper grease. Nowhere near the seals, or the friction surfaces, just on the sliding ridges where the ears of some pads bear. Also good for those Vauxhall guide pins that drive in - they don't seize with a smear of copper grease.

Oh, and round the hole in the middle of the steel wheel so it doesn't seize to the rear drum's lip.

OK.... I just checked, the squeak only happens when the car is moving but happens even if the car is only just moving, e.g. 1 mph. Furthermore it's coming from the drums at the back, not the front like I originally thought. Guess I'll have to whip the drums off to see what's going on.

Peter.

I'd better hunker down and see where the inevitable discussion leads :) Seems logical though.... do you know if white lithium is heat resistant enough to be used on brake components?

Use Ceratec most car shops have it

I don't have the answer, Peter. On checking up white lithium, I came across the 3-in-1 Oil Pro White Lithium Grease on the Screwfix site. If you intend to use that near any rubber, synthetic or otherwise, do be careful, it is mineral oil with lithium - the lithium soap is the thickening agent.

Yes, that's the stuff. Works a treat on door hinges :)

I like it where the fact sheet says "Product use: Not available". The other stuff I have is the 3-in-1 Anti-seize copper grease. It seems like the consensus here is use either type as long as it won't come into contact with seals. What do I use if it could! :)

Thanks,

Peter.

Yup, don't use lithium grease anywhere near brake seals as they will perish in mega quick time. A good quality synthetic grease is permissable.

PDH

Like what? I'm getting really confused now :)

Thanks,

Peter.

Like I said buy some CERAT|EC grease by Mintex it is a synthetic grease specifically for all brake components. You should not use metal containing greases on brake systems that have abs, so copaslip is out of date now.

The message from "mrcheerful ." contains these words:

On the thread of brake bleed nipples. And on the union bolts, too. Just don't get it in the pipe or down the hole into the cylinder/caliper. Water pump bolts - classic for seizing solid.