MoT shock!

If the bump stops are fitted to the shocks, it makes sense to have new ones fitted when the shocks are replaced. Your local VW dealer should stock them.You could always buy them and give them to whoever does the shocks. Mike.

The VW part number is: 191 512 131 A for the rear bump stops

Do it yourself. You should be able to get the parts for =A340.

--=20 Conor

"No trilogy should have more than four books" - Arthur C. Clarke

Do it yourself. You should be able to get the parts for £40.

Good advice if someone has the aptitude and the right tools. Not everyone does. Changed both front discs on the Puma that had the steering failure yesterday. About an hour for both discs, taking it easy. The reason I got the job, was because the young guy tried to do it himself. He used a bi-hex socket on one of the caliper bolts, which rounded the head. He then tried filing it to make it fit the next smaller sized spanner, as if that was ever going to be successful. After realising that that wasn't going to work he asked my Guvnor to see if I could remove the knackered bolt, and do the disc change job. All goes to show that what might be a simple job for any reasonably competent DIYer, can be difficult for someone with little mechanical aptitude.

BTW. On the inside rear of the Puma bonnet, was a black plastic box about

14" long by about 3" square. Fitted across the bonnet. Looked like some sort of air box, with a stubby 1,1/2" dia tube opening that simply pointed vaguely into the area behind the firewall when the bonnet was closed. What's that in aid of? I couldn't see any reason for it. It wasn't connected to anything. Mike.

Blowing air on the Alternator?

I only suggest that because there was a screensaver doing the rounds a while ago which showed an engine being put together.

One of the odd things was a moulded black plastic cover that fitted over the alternator, which had a ~2" black plastic pipe feeding air to it, rather than sucking in hot air from around the exhaust.

Pete.

Been there, done that.

So how did you get it out?

Definitely not that. I don't think it has anything to do with the engine. Adding to the description, it was screwed to the underside rear of the bonnet. The stubby pipe opening appeared to be the only opening into the box, and as I said, that opening was directed into the area between the firewall and the bulkhead. Where the w/screen wiper linkage and heater parts are.

I think you'll find many modern cars have ducting to direct cooling air onto the alternator. My '90 Toyota Celica even has it. Mike.

"Mike G" wrote in news:44d28dba$0$971$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader01.plus.net:

Something to collect drips, and divert the water from a vented scuttle? If a Puma has one.

Some are water cooled these days. ;-)

It appeared to be sealed, apart from the opening referred to. And it was attached to the bonnet. I can't see water getting into it. That's the weird thing about it. It had no obvious purpose. Mike.

Simply knocked the next size down six sided impact socket onto it. Probably an a/f or imp one, and whipped it out with the air gun. Didn't really take any longer than if it had been undamaged. Mike.

Irwin do some vicious damged bolt removing sockets that mangle the old head but remove the remains anyway.

I justed looked them up and you can get rear shocks for about 15 quid. Usually it's a bolt at the bottom and a nut at the top, remove both, remove the shock and replace. Takes as much time as taking the car elsewhere.

I'll have to check them out.

TBH, I've never had a problem with rounding off bolts since I invested in a decent six sided socket set [1] I know there's been a bi hex vs hex debate before, but when I first started messing around with cars a few years ago, I used to use my brothers "Argos special" bi hex set. It was nearly enough to make me give up as even simple jobs became a headache.

[1] When I say decent, I actually mean a 25 quid or so Thorson set, with a marketing hype "Camdrive" design. I know the Snapon and Britool et al brigade will sneer at me, but so far they've never let me down, despite some hugely tight and rusted bolts sent their way.

I have some of them somewhere, I have in the past used them mainly on rusty old gate fixing and found them most successful if a little violent.

I must be unique in never having chewed up a nut or bolt head with a bi-hex socket. The bolt/stud usually snaps first. Perhaps mine fit properly - or I take care to keep them square on?

For anyone wanting a cheap strong set of 6 sided sockets, they could do worse than buy a set of inpact driver sockets. They're not as pretty as those in combination socket sets, having just a chemical black finish, but for around £10 a set for a/f or metric, they're very good value. Mike.

On 03-Aug-06 23:58:21, Mike G said

Excellent point, and right on the money in my case.

Thanks for the advice, guys.

All the best, Angus Manwaring. (for e-mail remove ANTISPEM)

I need your memories for the Amiga Games Database: A collection of Amiga Game reviews by Amiga players

Nope, I've never chewed one, I've split an Elora 17mm single Hex socket on a Cavalier wheel nut that a Facom Bihex socket then removed.