Now that I've bought a BMW......

Nope. The service lights tell you. The actual mileage between services is governed by the way it is driven. The ECU monitors engine loads, stops starts etc. I,e one with high m/way miles will do more miles between services, than one used for short trips.

Can be done quite simply by shorting pins 7 and 19 with the ignition switched on.

About the cheapest code reader I know of is the Peake Research one, that Dave and I have mentioned. S/h ones seem pretty rare.

That's because BMW don't recommend changing the auto oil. Supposed to be filled for life. However the consensus by many owners is that changing it on high mileage cars is definitely worthwhile.

Not that I know of. Most of the servicing is no different to any other car. Mike.

You can do it with a piece of wire, or make up a lead which you clip to a body earth which is my preferred way if you don't have a pukka tool. I'm not keen on using the paperclip method so often described as I don't know what might happen if you shorted something you shouldn't. I've got a code reader which re-sets mine, but made up this lead for my brother, who reports it works fine.

I thought I had the URL for a website that describes this lead and the resetting proceedures in great detail, but can't find it. However, a search on 'BMW service indicator reset' should find it.

From memory, I used a large crock clip for the earth with a 5000 ohm resistor in series with the lead from it, and found a 3.5mm mono jack plug a snug fit to the socket on the multi-pin connector. But that was an E28, and I think the socket on the E34 is different.

Just remembered. I have one of these to reset the service lights.

"Mike G" wrote in news:42ee9ffb$0$92395$ snipped-for-privacy@authen.white.readfreenews.net:

Never seen a 10w40 FS. Can get 5w40 or 0w40 (theoretically superior, 'cos the warm viscosity is the same but they don't thicken as much when cold). Will one of those do?

So, despite the fact that I'll be doing some short trips, it won't just count to 10k, it will compensate and ask for a service earlier than this? Clever bugger! I thought that it was just the latest ones that did this!

Ta for that.

Got it. Will do a bit of eBay/general net trawling.

Surely it can't hurt? Is it easy to drain and refill or is it 'sealed for life' ? Anyone know the capcity? How about the diff?

Thanks, Mike

"Mike G" wrote in news:42ef3cb5$0$3429$892e7fe2 @authen.white.readfreenews.net:

Thanks for the offer, Mike. I think I'll use the DIY method that Dave describes. It sounds pretty safe for the ECU. I'd rather manage with this method and hang on to my money until I find a code reader at the right price.

Stu wrote in news:Xns96A6A703EEFECnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144:

Following on, the Primera had a setup where one could get into diagnostic mode by shorting two pins. The fault codes would then by shown by a series of flashes of the MIL. Is is possible to do this with a 5 series, or is a code reader essential, here?

I notice the little cheapy one I've got, appears to allows the oil and inspection service indicators to be reset individually. Presumably if the oil service LED's are reset on their own, the inspection setting carries on with it's own countdown regardless.. Do the DIY ones like yours have the same facilty? Just interested because most DIY methods just mention resetting the service indicator period. Mike.

OK. I'll stick it on eBay. It's no good to me.

A code reader is essential. Mike.

The diff is straightforward to do. Simply drain and refill with 1.7 Litres of BMW SAF-XO synthetic oil. That's for diffs without limited slip BTW. No doubt a google will come up with an equivalent oil.

The auto box is not as straightforward to refill, as the level depends on temperature. This is what the Bentley book says for the A5S 310Z 5 speed box.

"For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a level surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a temperature between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug. Place the transmission in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until it spills from the filler hole. Reinstall the filler plug."

The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove the sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O' ring, then fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II. HTH. Mike.

"Mike G" wrote in news:42efb7ca$0$88538$ snipped-for-privacy@authen.white.readfreenews.net:

Mine'll be a non-limited slip, then? That's at inspection 2, right? How would I tell when my inspection 2 is due? Is is a different indicator or do I just count the previous services up?

Good info, thanks

"Mike G" wrote in news:42efa994$0$14652$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net:

Just had a look on the net. You put the jumper wire in then turn on the ignition for:

- 3 seconds to reset an oil service (or just until the light goes out)

- 12 seconds to reset an Inspection service

HTH, not that you really need to know ;-)

Yes. Inspection 1 you just top up if necessary.

How

The same indicator, but as you say. Inspection 1 and 2 just alternate.

Starts off with 5 green LED's. The number drops, until they all go out, and a yellow LED shows with either OILSERVICE, or INSPECTION. If you carry on driving a red LED comes on to indicate the service is overdue. A clock symbol in conjunction with INSPECTION shows that brake fluid renewal is due.

You also have CHECK CONTROL which sounds a gong and displays on the dash if you drive off and forget to release the h/brake, leave a door open, bulbs fail, brake, tail, head, dip etc. Oil pressure, coolant temperature. There's many more but I wont bore you with the list.

About the ESD Regelt.

"It has not actually been sorted but he's been on the forums (BMW were no help) and seen posts from others with the exact same error. Apparently, it is cause by a bad earth or a faulty brake light switch, but he hasn't got round to tracing it yet."

Apparently this is a known fault that BMW know about. They recommend replacing the 'Check Control Module' the CCM. This is in the 'Front Power Distribution Box' (At the l/h rear of the engine compartment) But the ESD Regelt fault can be triggered by a faulty f/brake switch. I also found someone who reckoned, that rather than replacing the CCM. Resoldering the R60 resistor in the CCM will cure it.

I also found out that 'Regelt' in german, is 'regulate' in english. Now there's a really useful bit of information. :-) Mike.

"Mike G" wrote in news:42efde8c$0$95476$ snipped-for-privacy@authen.white.readfreenews.net:

My word. I never realised I'd purchased all this technology for such a (relatively) measly sum.

I still can't find out what the ESD stands for, in this scenario. A couple of posts say it means electronic differential lock :-/ Surely this car doesn't have such a feature?

Just done a google groups search and it showed one post where the owner fixed the fault just be cleaning the CCM contacts. I hope either this or the soldering fix will cure it. Having to fork out on a new CCM would not be a good start :-(

Only if I can find out what the ESD bit really means ;-)

Thanks Again

No. I wouldn't worry about ESD's meaning. My guess would something like Electronic Service Display, but I don't think knowing will help.

Brake switch contacts maybe. I'd be surprised if the CCM contained any contacts or moving parts. Mike.

I assume that's only a partial drain then as I seem to recall both my fathers BMW's wanting many litres to fill the boxes from totally empty? Or have I got that wrong? They were both E34's AFAIK

"Mike G" wrote in news:42effda3$0$91518$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net:

I think he meant the contacts that connect the unit to the wiring loom. I could handle a new brake switch, they're cheap enough. I'll start investigating once I get it, if the seller doesn't solve it first.

Chris Street wrote in news:93gyoze9ghl.1xyxh7jqfhy2a$. snipped-for-privacy@40tude.net:

Nope. Just checked on autodata. 1996 E34 525, ATF capacity: 3.0 litres :-)

ISTR that we needed something like eight litres. I must be getting it confused with something else!

All this talk about the CCM has started me thinking it might be causing the fault on my car. Occasionally I get the gong and the check control tells me there's a SELF LEVELING fault. My car hasn't got self levelling so it's a bit of a mystery. Presumaably it's the Check Control Module that's throwing up the error. Thing is, it could be weeks between the fault appearing, so I'm reluctant to spend money to sort it. Mike.