The wear is more likely to be on the track rods themselves. One end screws into the rack. The track arm ball joint screws on to the other end. Track rods complete with the steering rack ball joint, and track rod ends can be bought separately. Maybe around £25 would buy both items for one side. Not difficult to replace. Certainly a lot easier and cheaper than replacing the p/s rack. Tools req'd. Certainly a ball joint splitter, and a decent spanner, maybe Stillsons to unscrew the track rod from the rack, which may be staked to prevent it coming unscrewed. Those and a set of combination or open jaw spanners should be enough to do the job. Not forgetting of course an axle stand to support the car whilst your working on it. A jack alone is not safe enough. A Haynes manual should give all the information needed to do the job.
That you'd certainly need, but even a very basic set of spanners is a good investment, so shouldn't be regarded as an expense to do one particular job.
Unless you 'can' do the job yourself, you're probably better off scrapping it. If I were you I'd have a go at repairing it myself. Good experience, and if it all proves too much, all you've lost is a few quid, but you'll have a better idea of what you're capable of, as far as DIY repairs are concerned. Mike.
I am not aware that failures are qualified as "safe/usafe to drive". A car is by definition "unroadworthy" if it fails MOT and that information has been entered into the computer, thus superseding previous MOT information.
If it fails an MOT it means it failed an MOT. If an existing MOT certificate is still in date, then you can still drive it with exactly the same legality as when you drove it in.
You can fail an MOT for a blown bulb or damaged wiper blade. Or on emissions. None of those make it unroadworthy.
Yes, a car with a blown bulb is unroadworthy. I have seen the cars being pulled dover for random Vehicle Examination one day in Slough. a WPC waived some cars of the street and into the forecourt of a bingo hall. the cars were then checked for lights, steering and other faults. Blown bulbs are particularly obvious faults.
If you look here , you will see the VT30 'Refusal of an MOT Test Certificate' form. The unlabelled 'Box C' is mentioned under 'Horror Story' at - to save you the trouble, here's a quote:
"But what can do you do if they decide to drive away in a dangerous vehicle? What you can do You can?t refuse to give the vehicle back, or ask the presenter to sign a disclaimer, but you can point out some facts: ? ?Box C? of the VT30 has been completed, warning the presenter that the NT considers the vehicle to be in an unroadworthy condition. ? Unroadworthiness is recorded not only on the VT30, but also in the vehicle?s history on the MOT Computerisation system. ? Although a vehicle can be driven to and from an MOT station for test without a current MOT or after failure, an offence could be committed if the presenter is knowingly driving an unroadworthy vehicle (and the presenter would be doing so knowingly, having been warned on the VT30)."
So, basically, you *are* now aware that "failures are qualified as "safe/ unsafe to drive"."
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