Sump pan stuck to engine block - help!

BFO rubber mallet.

levering/screwdrivers

I only have a LFO Rubber Mallet but I have a BFO club hammer and a useful block of wood (other than my head) - after I've had this cuppa I'll go give it a whack or three

BT

pry it off we do that with alot of motors. Engine blocks are pretty strong!

Although the block is strong, you really don't want to be damaging gasket mating surfaces using screwdrivers etc.

yes i know but as long as your not a gorrila about it you won't damage anything. You don't have to hack at it if your gental it won't put gauges and cuts into the oil pan gasket surface.

Seconded. I've used screwdrivers to pry sumps off many times, without ever damaging the contact faces on the block or sump. IME you're more likely to cause damage when scraping the old gasket off. Mike.

Whack it sideways with a large hammer if it's scrap anyway. Might also be possible to get mole grips on the bent up edge?

Hi all

Gentle tap with club hammer - nowt. Harder tap - dented old sump, still nowt. I ended up stuffing the sharp end of a three foot pry bar in below the gasket and walloped it in with the club hammer - sort of like a screwdriver with a 1" wide blade.

Worked a treat - no marks on block face and who cares about the old sump - it was scrap in any case.

Refitting was a total pig - there's a steel strengthening/blanking plate that fits behind the starter motor which fouls the sump if you try and offer it up vertically - try and offer it at an angle and the gasket gets disturbed - the plate seems to be immoveable.

Still, got there in the end - many thanks

Bawb

CVH is iron and sump is scrap. Wouldn't do this with an alloy block on any car or a sump you want to reuse. Nissan have a special tool, the Nissan big book of words says "Do not insert Tool into oil pump or rear oil seal retainer portion, or aluminium mating face will be damaged. Do not insert screwdriver, or oil pan flange will be deformed". (no doubt you beat that straight with a big hammer as well) It's a thin plate of metal with a chamfer on three sides, looks like the working end of a big wide wood chisel. The 4th side has a length of 15mm square bar welded on with a length of round bar welded on to make a handle pointing downwards. You whack the back of the square bar to drive the wide chisel edge into the middle of the joint and then you drive it along the joint by whacking the end of the square bar and then start at the middle again and whack it up the joint the other way.

If and when you come across a alloy ladder frame bearing beam I suggest you take some training before wading in with a screwdriver.

In news:43808fd0$0$1465$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader01.plus.net, Mike G decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

Thirded.