Timing belt on Fiesta Mk5

Not financially viable. Cheaper to buy a second hand unit for =A350 than=20 spend =A3100's getting the mess sorted out.

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

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Conor ( snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

But the first thing you do on an unknown unit out of a scrapper is to give it a damn good service - including a cambelt...

Ooh aye. Golden rule especially on Pintos where you can bet your botton=20 dollar that the oil spray bar hasn't been done for a decade or so.=20

Looking on the bright side, the OP will know how to do it properly now.

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

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Conor ( snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

You mean "the OP will have figured out ONE way to do it wrongly..."

spend £100's getting the mess sorted out.

£50 - Where from!? I've just phoned 15 breakers in the Nottm phone book. Non have cylinder heads, one has an engine for £150+VAT. Guaranteed for 3 months. There's one on ebay which looks like what I need, buy it now price £300!!! But no bidders yet. The garage quoted around £250 to fit, so I'm looking at over £400 at the mo.

What a chuffin expensive lesson. And all because I was trying to pro-actively look after it. I'm gutted.

At least I've learnt what a Woodruff key is. Every cloud has a silver lining...

I may be back for advice under the thread title "How do you swap an engine in a Fiesta mk5" but at the moment my home-mechanic days are over :-(

Thanks everyone. Steve

LOL. Too right. A further irony is I didnt get past removing the belt cover. There was still a whole world of evil tasks yet to conquer...

That's part of the reason I missed the vital instructions for refitting the c/s pulley - in my mind I hadn't actually done anything, so I was just 'popping it back together'...

Arrgghhhh! It's still hurting! I want my 1983 Fiesta back (finally went to scrap yard a year ago). I could fix anything on THAT! The joy of pushrod engines...

The breakers one is from a Ford Ka. They say it's the same as the Fiesta, can anyone confirm this?

This is the one on ebay.

Tell me NOW what sort of questions I should be asking BEFORE buying! You see, I learn quick... :-)

I dont understand what the problem is?

Support engine under sump with jack and lump of wood, remove engine mount entirely, jack then lower engine to facilitate belt cover bolts at widest part in inner-wing.

Remove cam cover and time engine to no.1 TDC with locking pins / bit of flat steel. Add tippex marks on pulleys relative to a datum point. Slightly slacken pulley bolts with impact wrench with tensioned belt in postion.

Remove belt, replace tensioners / water pump etc etc etc . install new belt, install new locktit-ed crank and cam sprocket bolts, do up hand tight... Tension belt correctly. Possibly move cam sprockets slightly to tippex marks. Ensure crank and cams havent moved against pin / flat plate.

Remove timing pins / steel plate and rotate engine twice by hand. Recheck pins / plate can be re-inserted. Repeat.

Replace belt cover and engine mount. 2hrs max.

Tim..

Yes, easy when written like that! And assuming you have a perfect set of tools.

However that doesn't take into account unexpected things like power steering pump pulleys covering one of the bolts.

I wish you lived next door, and had nothing to do yesterday...

You missed out at least one vital point:

DO UP THE CRANK BOLT FULLY

you only went to hand tight!!

MrCheerful

40 minutes is about twice as long as it can take. On those old F10/F15=20 boxes, you could withdraw the mainshaft into the gearbox and remove the=20 clutch through a plate at the bottom after using some clips to retain=20 the pressure plate.

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

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40 minutes is about twice as long as it can take. On those old F10/F15 boxes, you could withdraw the mainshaft into the gearbox and remove the clutch through a plate at the bottom after using some clips to retain the pressure plate.

I used to find that going for the bits took as long as the job, then they changed the end cap design, so you needed oil and gasket replacement as well, that slowed it all up.

Mrcheerful

In message , Stevie writes

Certainly not. Its a completely different engine from yours.

That looks OK.

Oh poo...

But I mentioned it to the mechanic who I'm lining up to sort out my mess and he also said it would be OK. Are you certain to Ka one is different?

Before I assume its a write off I thought I'd just do some final checks, as we've only concluded it's dead from what I've said (and by the fact that I'm in this mess, I don't know everything...)

I want to put my compression tester on it, but dont want to turn it over anymore, so I thought I'd check to see if the cams were still aligned.

I inserted the timing pin, wound the crank round til it stopped, and the slots in the cams were not quite level.

Picture here with camshaft setting bar stuck in right hand cam:

How far out do they need to get in order for interference of the valves? Is this ?20degree drift significant enough? (Of course this is the position it's in now, it may actually be a thousand and 20degrees off - I've turned the motor over on the starter ~5 times since I put it back together)

If this 20 degree out is enough to stop it starting, but not enough to damage it, all may not be lost... (hmm...in your dreams buddy...)

It would be the same, had yours been a 1.3.

Yup. Why not buy a 1.4, seeing as how you're replacing the engine anyway ;-)

The Mk4 Fiesta came with the same 1.3 8v pushrod style lump fitted to the Ka. Yours is the 1.25 16v Zetec lump, completely different animal.

You're looking for a 1.25 16v.....or even a 1.4 16v or 1.6 16v from a Focus ;-) (same as the Fiesta Zetec-S engine)

Line the cams up & try. What've you got to lose?

Is there a way of doing this without being able to get at the cam sprockets (see start of thread...)