SPi to carb MINI conversion

Well ken I think its time for me to ask YOU a question for a change. Just to test your vast knowledge and abilities.

On this rolling road, how would YOU determine the correct exhaust emmisions (what would they be? Approx values and why please) CO, C02, Unburned hydrocarbons, oxygen, nitrous oxides etc? Tell me how you know when timing and mixture is correct at say 4000 rpm at WOT.

Remembering of course that I can and have mapped and set up many cars and bikes, turbo and standard, fuel injected and carbed etc on many one off special setups. Using four gas ehaust gas analyser, my ears, my nose, my years of experience on my own dynamometers and others. Tell me EXACTLY what you would look for and how you choose your ignition point and fueling? Not interested in dynamic conditions or different rpm, or part throttle here just the simplest WOT 4000 rpm setup.

Go for it. I cannot wait!

Unless it's a sprung needle, then the needle ought to be centred in the jet and not rubbing against it anyway.

If it is a sprung needle and you're tweaking it for best performance, replace it with a non-sprung needle. For one thing, the sprung needles _did_ wear the jet out and for another the crude surface finish of OEM needles is worse than a hand-filed finish.

[About Kenny Wenny]

That's a gross overestimate of Ken's talents. He's well into negative numbers nowadays.

PLenty of people running 40's and 45's on Pintos do with no consequence=20 whatsoever.

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In it's most basic form by running it with and without the vacuum pipe=20 connected at various speeds.

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No but I have heard of Ron Harris who regularly gets >200BHP out of 2L=20 Pintos on carbed engines....

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The OPs car is a std 1275 Mini............he would like an accurate answer to his question (which I have provided already), rather than your ridiculous piffle, whose only point seems to be to impress the clueless fuckwits on here!

k

PLenty of people running 40's and 45's on Pintos do with no consequence whatsoever.

You have tdc timing mark on engine, you need 10 degrees of advance at

1000rpm. Set advance on timing light to 10 degrees, revs to 1000 and check. Just as easy to retard the point the light flashes in the self same way. k

I don't know if these have hit the cheap tools market yet (my old Sealey certainly doesn't) but it's hardly difficult to do this electronically -- just use a phase-locked loop.

Because it isn't. Have you not yet noticed you're the only one not=20 agreeing?

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Did the standard Mini come with a bolt on K&N filter or a paper one in=20 a metal cover?

Did the standard mini come with a 2" exhaust or a smaller one?

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Yet the people running these engines have experienced no such thing.

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Bass player for Maiden ?

You really are showing your ignorance which makes me think you've never even used a timing light.

The flash is triggered by the spark. You can delay the flash by any amount you want to, and timing lights to do this are available, and the delay marked in degrees of advance. What you can't do is make the flash work

*before* the spark which would be needed to retard the ignition in the same way.

Maybe Ken uses a telepathic strobe? The one that the aliens who tell him about masons left behind after they had experimented on his brain.

Nah, he means the bloke who has spend his working life with his hand up the arse of a giant green bird.