insulating speakers...

I recently upgraded to a Pioner DEH-P3500 head unit with Pioneer 6880R speakers in the doors and Pioneer 6870R's on the rear deck. I'm noticing a hum/buzz from the rear speakers at certain low frequencies. I'm pretty sure I did not blow them. I'm suspecting it's the metal speaker housing making contact with the metal mounting tray in the rear deck. The factory speakers had a rubber cushioning strip on the back of the speaker housing to insulate it from the metal of the mounting tray, the 6870s do not.

Is there narrow rubber stripping I can get for this? Preferably adhesive on one side? Back in Europe I used to use a special silicone. You'd squeeze it on the mounting tray and let it cure. It would adhere to teh tray and form a soft cushioning bead on which you could mount the speaker. Sort of like a 'gasket out of a tube' :-) However, since it cured, it would not adhere to the speaker so removing the speaker was easy. Is there such a thing available? or another way of insulating the speaker from the mounting tray?

Thanks in advance!

Reply to
Paul
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Go to Lowes and get some Peel n Seel. It's almost identical to Dynomat and works well especially in low-stress areas like this. Also I'd insulate thigs with some cheap carpet padding underthe package tray and fill in any open spaces with expanding foam. You'd be amazed. For someone that is into audio it gets addictive coz the sound deadening really works in quieting the cabin and improving sound quality.

///Mike

1993 BMW 525i
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of all the old cars
Reply to
TurboMike

"Paul" wrote

You can get strip caulk. It's usually grey or white and is sorta

*clay-like*. It's fairly cheap too. I use it when I seal subwoofer drivers to the enclosure.
Reply to
66 6F HCS

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and look for door trim selant. I dont remember what the real name for it is. It is rolled up like tape but it it is foam with one sticky side. You can get it in all sizes from a 1/4" to 1" with and it is exactly what Pioneer use to include in there speaker packages for sealing speakers and drivers (subs). I have see it in Autozone aswell only Home Depot and Lowes offer it in more sizes. It is in like a plastic clear bag you cant miss it.

Reply to
Carver

Except that it's foam and couldn't possibly seal an enclosure for that exact reason. It could stop the rattling though. Strip caulk is cheaper and WILL seal the enclosure. The foam stuff that's usually put on the *front* of speaker frames (usually on the terrible paper OEM crap) helps with rattling when the speaker is mounted to the inner door frame and has some space that needs to be filled between the speaker and the inside of the outer door panel. This is *not* used to seal the enclosure and *does not* have any effect on the way the speaker actually works or sounds. Sealing the back of the speaker *is* what's important and *does* effect the sound produced.

Reply to
66 6F HCS

From what I read he was talking about a regular speaker like a 6x9 ect... For sealing off the foam tape will work great. Once you screw the speaker in over the tape it is like a soft cushion gasket that gets mashed. Never heard of using chalk. Very interesting.

Reply to
Carver

at 16 Aug 2004, 66 6F HCS [92bottledance_spammit snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

That's what I need. Where can you get it? Homey Depot?

Reply to
Paul

at 16 Aug 2004, Carver [ snipped-for-privacy@Carver.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have that stuff, just used it to draftproof a door. Used it before and it does work, but I would prefer a more caulky/silicony type of stuff. I'll use it if I can't find what I am looking for though.

Reply to
Paul

"Paul" wrote

Yes.

Reply to
66 6F HCS

"Carver" wrote

That's cause I didn't say chalk. Read what I wrote again...

Reply to
66 6F HCS

"Paul" wrote

I'd stay away from actual caulking from a gun or any silicone type stuff. It's messy and too hard to keep where you want it. The strip (or rope) caulk will stay put and is not messy. Just stick it on with a little pressure and it will fill all the gaps once screwed down.

Reply to
66 6F HCS

V'ger jma(NOSPAM)@snowcrest.net

1965 Mustang Fastback 2+2 Vintage Burgundy w/ Black Std Interior 289 ci 4v V8 oem A Code Dual Exhaust C4 Auto converted to AODE 8" Trak Lok Vintage 40 wheels BF Goodrich gForce T/A 225/50ZR-16 KDWS tires Built in San Jose, CA on my birthday, May 10th ; ) Restoration by: Cool Mustang Restorations Cool, CA
Reply to
V'ger

I prefer to use rope caulk (Frost King "Fingertip Caulk") from Home Depot for sealing purposes. Remove a single rope strand from the roll and then work it with your fingers to make it longer and skinnier; you don't need much. Here's a link to a pic of what I'm talking about.

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Reply to
66 6F HCS

lol, I was wondeing !! hee, hee !!! you know how it is when you speed read. Chalk, thats a good one.

Reply to
Clark Kent

at 18 Aug 2004, 66 6F HCS [92bottledance_spammit snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net] wrote in news:bPidnTqqu5hfZr snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

That's like what I used in europe. but it came in a tube and was translucent. Thanks! I can get that humm out now hopefully. :-)

Reply to
Paul

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