Re: At what point does a car become not worth keeping?

In news:YhO_b.391899$xy6.2203355@attbi_s02, Crunchy Cookie being of bellicose mind posted:

I thought I'd get a little cost/benefit analysis discussion going. > I've always thought the best used-car deals were ones between, oh, > 2 and 8 years old. If it's too new, you might as well buy new, > but if it's too old, you're just asking for trouble, right? > What's the average (range of) mileage where cars start konking out > to a higher expense than their value? Most people seem to > casually say between 100K and 200K; most consider 200K to be a > long life. The engine and transmission rebuilds are the only > really huge items, right? How much does rebuilding those cost? > Anything else to watch out for? > And is it me, or do Japanese car alternators die really easily?

Lots depends on where you live. If the used car is 10 yrs old and rusting, a sound driveline may become immaterial.

WHEN you can get a decent used car REAL CHEAP, then you can put more money into it. But you better have mechanical skills.

My most satisfactory ownerships have been to buy new .... do as much as the preventative maintenance as possible (don't over estimate your skills either!) and then drive it 'til the wheels get wobbly.

Reply to
Philip®
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In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Brian Bergin being of bellicose mind posted:

Nonsense. Watch Destruction Derby sometime. The PREFERRED cars are ... full sized sedans from the1970's and earlier ... cars WITHOUT crumple zones. You engine does not end up in your lap. Good Grief.

Reply to
Philip®

"Philip®" spake unto the masses in news:GTQ0c.14735$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net:

I figure the insurance companies are in cahoots with the automakers.

Ever notice how a lot of cars are scrapped with minimal damage these days? It's the CRUMPLE ZONE. It's VERY expensive to try to pull one of those back into shape, therefore the car goes to the crusher, and GM, etc. makes another new sale (no repaired used-car left behind)!

Reply to
Tegger®

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