106 Diesel Lack of Power

Hi,

That is my idea, too. This lack of power may well due to a bad valve clearance. That is critical on TUDs (AX, Saxo, 106). Since oil & filters are new, valve clearance is my only guess.

HTH, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

Hi,

Although it seems possible, I guess it is highly unlike.

Come on, I ain't got any experience. I'm not a mechanic, I don't work for PSA by any means, BTW I've got no job for the moment.

Just a performance problem could well occur because of an incorrect valve clearance, once you changed oil & filters. And TUs / TUDs are known to be sensitive to valve clearance.

For the pump setup, it is possible, but I guess it is very unlike to happen... Who woudl be so nut he'd like to modify the fuel pump setup ? Yeah, some John Doe, OK. The valve clearance is the easiest thing to check, if I ever had the problem, I'd look at this at first time.

BTW, one car at my brother's work has the same problem (306 1.9D estate), doesn't take more than 120KPH, whatever it is on 4th or 5th gear. I also do suspect an incorrect valve clearance, but I don't know what's wrong (they've got a division which has to overhaul cars, but they seem as good as Halford's technicians).

Regards, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

My guess was some ecconomist tweaking the pump down for better fuel consumption. But I don't have your experience of these things GT.

jim.

You mention that the timing belt was recently serviced - what's the odds it's one tooth out? Worth a check before doing anything drastic. Dave

It was the lack of smoke on a 150K car along with low power that suggested pump fiddling to me, I know they usualy get fiddled for MORE power (less ecconomy) but that always gives more smoke when clogging it along with a bit more power. I wondered if the previous owner had twiddled the other way for the ultimate in ecconomy (next to a push-bike). Or even fiddled it down to get it through an emmison test? I'm even less of a mechanic though ;-) Sorry to hear you're 'between jobs'

jim.

I agree with Dave. First check the belt is fitted correctly. Could well be one tooth out on the pump, which will give a "cammy" noise. Then maybe check the tappets. Then see if you can find a friendly garage that will check the emissions for you. These cars are not usually very smoke free unless someone has been "playing" and turned it right down for some reason.

Hi,

Not really a criteria to diagnose it, IMO, as my 83k miles 205D doesn't smoke and has all its power. And I guess it will never smoke.

True, some ppl try to increase fuel ratio, and it smokes more than usual. I've heard of a lad which has done it with a 106 D, which was able to reach

I'd rather say for an emission test.

OK then :-)

Well, to be honnest, that's the kind of problem any french young man has to cope with :-(

Regards, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

Hi all.

Many thanks for all the replies - much appreciated.

Yep! thought about the timing being out too - but the car performed as badly before the belt was changed, so that's that ruled out - I think... unless it's been like this for 72k!!.

To answer the other questions, the pump still has the original seals on the high speed and low speed end-stops, so fiddling with the pump can also be ruled out (to a certain degree). Why anyone would want to make the car BETTER on Diesel though,is beyond me... If 58 - 70 MPG isn't good enough, you shouldn't own a car!

I think I'll have to bite the bullet, rip the rocker cover off and measure the clearances before deciding what the next step will be. By the way has anyone ever changed the shims on a 106 1.5 with the camshaft still in-situ? Apparently it can be done, I've done it on numerous Fiats so it's not too different I would imagine. Any feedback on this would be helpful

Although I normally do all my own work, I got a garage to do the t/belt as I did not have the necessary tool to tension the belt (or the time...) and I don't have a great deal of experience with Peugeots (I'm a FIAT man). So if doing the shims means taking the camshaft out I'll either have to find some way of measuring the belt tension or give it to someone else to do. Either way, I can't live with the car any longer the way it is.

Thanks again for all the replies,

Niall

Hi all.

Many thanks for all the replies - much appreciated.

Yep! thought about the timing being out too - but the car performed as badly before the belt was changed, so that's that ruled out - I think... unless it's been like this for 72k!!.

To answer the other questions, the pump still has the original seals on the high speed and low speed end-stops, so fiddling with the pump can also be ruled out (to a certain degree). Why anyone would want to make the car BETTER on Diesel though,is beyond me... If 58 - 70 MPG isn't good enough, you shouldn't own a car!

I think I'll have to bite the bullet, rip the rocker cover off and measure the clearances before deciding what the next step will be. By the way has anyone ever changed the shims on a 106 1.5 with the camshaft still in-situ? Apparently it can be done, I've done it on numerous Fiats so it's not too different I would imagine. Any feedback on this would be helpful

Although I normally do all my own work, I got a garage to do the t/belt as I did not have the necessary tool to tension the belt (or the time...) and I don't have a great deal of experience with Peugeots (I'm a FIAT man). So if doing the shims means taking the camshaft out I'll either have to find some way of measuring the belt tension or give it to someone else to do. Either way, I can't live with the car any longer the way it is.

Thanks again for all the replies,

Niall

There is a tool that can be used to change the shims with the camshaft in-situ. Peugeot garages should have it, as it was a mandatory issue, BUT it wasn't too successful, and a pig of a job to use it. It is just as quick and easier to remove the camshaft. The shims are the same as the Fiat ones, by the way. The way I do it. Measure the clearances. Get four cable ties and tie the belt to the pump pulley and camshaft pulley (after timing the engine up of course) at the points where the belt enters and leaves the pulleys (if that makes sense!). Then remove the camshaft pulley and let it hang away from the camshaft. Take off the camshaft, and measure the thicknesses of the shims and calculate what shims are needed. (This bit is as for Fiats, so should be easy for you). Then replace all parts. Make sure the camshaft is in the right position and push the pulley back on, tighten the bolt, remove the cable ties and start the engine (after putting the cam cover back on!!) The belt tension should be the same as before. I use this method to remove the pumps. Never had any problems.