Trunk dome light?

Hi All,
2006 Forester
Can anyone confirm for me that this is the correct lamp for my trunk/cargo/luggage dome light?
https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2006_Forester-XS-25L-AT/BULB-LUGGAGE-ROOM-LAMP/49295569/84920AA020.html
And that this is a suitable LED replacement?
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-6-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/1728/4112/
Also, how do you remove the thing? My hands are a bit big to get in there and I don't hand to use pliers for fear of breaking the bulb.
Many thanks, -T
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On 9/7/2018 6:09 PM, T wrote:

That first link is really strange: according to it this identical bulb has three different power ratings, one of which would probably melt its holder within minutes.
Part Number: 84920AA020 (84920AC020) 12V-13W 12V-18W 12V-55W
What I would do in your case is to remove the existing bulb and examine it carefully for whatever type markings it carries and then work from there. For the fumbling-fat-fingers problem, wrapping each jaw of long-nose pliers with a couple of mm of masking tape and then being careful to not squeeze too hard will probably work a treat.
OH, and looking at the illustration and specs in the second link I'd think it would be a suitable replacement assuming that the existing bulb is truly a wedge base.
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On 09/07/2018 03:18 PM, John McGaw wrote:

-ROOM-LAMP/49295569/84920AA020.html

bulb-6-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/1728/4112/

b

Thank you! I was a bit freaked out about the three power settings too.
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T wrote:

I suspect they are comparing the light output of the LED to that of an incandescent. See it all the time on the packaging: 13W LED is rated the same light intensity as a 75W incandescent. Usually you want to compare lumens but that measurement is foreign to many consumers.
Lumens    Incandescent    LED 450     40 W         6 - 9 W 800     60 W         8 - 12 W 1100     75 W         9 - 13 W 1600    100 W        16 - 20 W 2600    150 W        25 - 28 W
Found another lumen equivalency chart at: https://www.viribright.com/lumen-output-comparing-led-vs-cfl-vs-incandescent-wattage/
There are 3-way LED bulbs, too, and maybe why there are multiple lumen, er, wattage ratings. Do the lamp decrease intensity rather than immediately go black when you close the rear door?
By the way, there are bulb extractor tongs. They look like miniature salad tongs with rubber-coated tips. They're usually straight for the legs, so you need enough room for the tongs to grab the bulb and pull back on the bulb.
https://sep.yimg.com/ay/levineauto/cta-tools-1012-mini-bulb-and-fuse-pliers-3.gif
You could use cosmetic plier-style tweezers available at Walmart, Walgreens, or anyplace that sells cosmetics, like:
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/87732451-1e51-4945-9429-027f1d0d913b_1.f1639a44681c05ccb5a1b0853885e469.jpeg
If you're worried about crushing the bulb by applying metal against glass (I doubt that applies to the LED bulb), you could jam a soft moldable silicone ear plug on each tine or wrap with butyl tape (the stretchy soft tape you use around an electrical connection before wrapping with electrician tape) or dip the tines in silicone coating.
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I've used SuperBrightLEDs.com for several LED conversions on my Japanese motorcycles. They have great customer service; shoot them an email and they'll get back to you rapidly and with good info. The big question is whether you need a "load resistor"; some conversion LEDs need one, some do not.
On 2018-09-07 22:09:50 +0000, T said:

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