Btw, your shock sensor only has three wires, right?
If it has four, it could be that you have an minor and major trigger function. The minor will just trigger the alarm when someone taps on the car - your horn may only bleep a couple of times. The major wire will truly trigger an alarm condition. It could be that the unidentified wire H/T is related to this kind of functionality.
Does your shock sensor have one or two adjustment screws? (one minor, one major). The simpler ones don't have any kind of adjustment.
One more thing: you have to determine whether your horn is an electronic horn or just a loud speaker. Most of them are electronic horns, so the yelping circuitry is actually inside the horn assembly.
Get a 1.5V battery and hook the - of the horn to the - of the battery. Very briefly - a fraction of a second - tap the + wire of the horn to the + of the battery. If you hear a fairly loud click when you do this, chances are that your horn is actually a speaker. If you don't hear a click, try the same with a 9V battery. Most likely you'll hear a sirene when you hold the + on (get ready to be startled because they tend to be loud).
If it is a speaker, most likely you'll have to hook the alarm's horn output to the horn's + input. The horn's - input will most likely go to ground (vbat-). If it is an electronic horn, hook it up according your your findings of the horn output level (see above) or report back.
so what i can unstand from this is this, to run the 12v from the siren to an always 12v power, and then the ground to the siren out-put from the module. correct?
and what i understand about my sensor is to hook always 12v up and the ground and the third wire is for the out-put from the module that says O/S. this is pretty much what i came up with from researching around. could i mess anything up by trying the O/S as the - out-put for the sensor?
once again i really appreciate the help with the START on the module i was thinking that maybe this could be what you called the ACC and maybe the ACC is just another out-put for another sensor?
yes i do believe that the D/L and D/UNL is for the door locking to which i dont need untill i can throw a kit in my car =)
the DOOR + and - im thinking could be the dome light or door trip, not sure, guess im just going to have to troubleshoot
H/T i've come to a conclusion is the Hood and Trunk trip or the remote open so i'll just leave that alone also.
Now with the PARK im not sure if that could be a parking trip or the flasher out-put
i think the only thing that i havent figured out is the LED and the valet switch, is the valet switch really necesary? if not is there anything special i have to do to not hook it up? theres another two wire harness that comes out of the side to which is labeled on the board VALET and F/L im lost with these connections and on how to hook up the LED.
Good - that's the sensitivity adjustment. Fiddle with that after you've installed the alarm. Your alarm may not have a warning based on the severity of the shock. It may just time the length between shocks. One shock is warning, two shocks between some time is an alarm condition.
Good.
Right. I am assuming that they have a driver or relay in the alarm that basically grounds the negative of the horn. Most alarms are hooked up that way, but there's always an exception..
That would be my assumption as well. To make sure that O/S in indeed an input, set your multimeter to amps (probably have to switch leads to a different input on the meter too) and tap between this connection and ground. You should not see an appreciable amount of current (in the order of mA), if any current at all. If that is the case, you cannot harm your sensor by hooking it up.
I forgot what the blurb on that wedsite said now. Does this thing have a remote start option? Usually those things are wired through a remote relay. Do you measure anything on ACC with the alarm armed, etc? Or does your remote have a remote start button? If it is indeed an output, it is most likely remote start and I would not mess with it on a stick shift car.
Often alarms like to know that a key is in the ignition so the alarm cannot be armed with a remote button when the car is being driven. Usually you wire this to a fuse that's is live when the key is turned to anything but off.
Some really simple alarms use the ACC to disable itself. It assumes that when the key has been inserted and turned, everything is ok. Those alarms are very easy to defeat (basically a clip lead across two fuses disables the whole thing).
Right. :)
Sounds right. Put a multimeter set to resistance across these connections and see when you try to remote open the door. If closes, it most likely is a dome switch and wants to be across a door contact so the dome light comes on. It could also be a door switch input, where it wants to measure when a door has been opened.
Forgot you had a remote trunk opener. That contact may pulse to ground when you press the hood button.
Probably parking lights - a car finding function, I suspect.
Valet is a physical switch? (I was under the impression it was a remote control button) It probably is an alarm disable. You don't have to use it.
What does "F" measure with the meter set to volts? Perhaps the "L" is the LED drive, "F" the other side of the LED. Weird that it has a separate harness. Measure its voltage with the alarm armed. It probably pulses so you may see a voltage on your meter that does not stabilize. Let me know what you see there.
Thanks for the help, i may not get around to testing everything out today, as it is raining and very cold in the good O high desert of CA. but when i do get to really dig into it and test it all out i will be posting.
Thanks Super Nick
P.S. Can i check it all out without hooking it all up in my car? maybe just using battery power? if so then i can maybe get to it today some time. then i can do all the trouble shooting and the testing and making sure its all going to work before i throw it in my car. Remember i did get it at a swap meet lol.
I feel your pain -- we we had about a week of solid rain. (CT - drops the length of pencils). We finally have some sun again.
Sure -- in fact, you don't want to experiment with a car battery on some of these contacts because of the current it can supply. If something goes wrong, you can vaporize stuff inside your box. I'd figure it out on a work bench and then hook it up to the car.
Once you get it all working, you've saved yourself a bunch of coin. Hacking into stuff and puzzling to make it work is kinda fun, isn't it? Congrats!
Yes, I love this kind of stuff, especially once its done with and i forget to lock my doors with the alarm on and it spooks me lol. That will be great. Plus i'll feel a lot more confident about putting a good stereo system in it.
Thanks I'll be posting upon my finished work( in a new trend lol) Nick
I've been in and out today. Replied to you, went out to get some groceries, painted my left floorpan, cleaned up the garage, came in for lunch, typed replied to you, went back out and re-arranged the garage, came back in for some coffee and am typing this. Now I'll be out again for a couple of hours, but you can try me if you see me on.
Just use my email address to find me on MS messenger. I don't use Yahoo's instant messenger.
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