Next step after blasting and etch primer?

Hi all, The body will be back tomorrow from being sandblasted, and I'm unsure of what to do when it gets back. I figure I'll smooth the metal a bit with something around 300, then etch prime, but am unsure where I need to go after that. The finish coat will be acrylic enamel. After etch priming the car, I plan on doing some minor body work, going back to bare metal where I need to use small amounts of filler, re-etching, then what? Primer-surfacer? High build primer? Sealer? How do I get from where I am to the final sanding and spraying with AE? TIA,

-Chip

'56, ghia, '66 bug

Reply to
Rlococ
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Some tips:

- You'll need to sand the sandblasted metal with 80 grit (DA sander) if you're going to use HB primer.

- Etching primer is only for bare metal, don't use on filler

- After etching metal you can use 'regular' primer

- If you go with HB primer, use 3 coats then wet sand with 400 grit before topcoat.

- Sealer is used only when painting over existing paint. It's purpose is to encapsulate the old paint so it doesn't pop or cause problems under the new paint.

good luck

Reply to
Mel P.

Tell me you don't really mean 'sandblasting', or at least let me know the guy is real gentle with it. It can be real bad for sheetmetal.

Reply to
one_of_many

Thanks for the tips, and dont worry John, the guy who's doing the blasting has a great reputation and is supposedly the only one in the area that does work without warpage. He knows what he's doing (I hope). Best part is, he's sandblasting the entire car, and I mean eveything (besides the inside of the roof) and is only charging me $250. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

-Chip

Reply to
Owokie

OK: You need to *throughly* sand the car with a DA using 80 grit. Then metal-prep the entire surface, & prime with epoxy primer (I use PPG DP50). Then you can bondo over that (only primer you can do so), as you get better adhesion & feathering of the bondo. After finishing the bondo, re-prime with epoxy, & prime any areas that need blocking (or the entire car) with a high-build primer (I use Sikkens). After blocking & re-priming as much as it needs to be straight, re-prime with epoxy again. Let it dry for several days, & final sand with 400 or 500 wet before shooting. Use base-coat clear-coat if you want it to last (I use PPG base & Sikkens clear). BTW I have over 30 yrs. exp. in customs & restoration, if you're curious.

HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

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(cars on the "About Me" page, the "parts for sale"page, & in the photo section). Also the repaired Cabrio is at
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Reply to
ThaDriver

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