300 Tdi BHP

I've heard several numbers quoted depending if it's got EDC fitted so here goes.

Std 111 Bhp

EDC 120 Bhp

EDC Auto box 130 Bhp

The only one I'm sure about is the Std with a mechanical pump.

Peter

111.3 bhp at 4000 rpm as used in Defender and manual Discovery and RaRo Classic vehicles.

Automatic gearbox equipped Discos had the 130 (?) bhp version of the same engine. Do not remember whether the RaRos with autobox had the same treatment from the factory

Take care Pantelis

question is - how do I get my standard to 130, what is the diffent parts they put on the auto engine ?.

It's going to have the cat cut out so that should give me an extra few horses but the more the merrier!!

On or around Sat, 24 Jan 2004 20:26:38 -0000, "StaffBull" enlightened us thusly:

is yours an EDC or a standard pump?

Try reving the engine with the throttle quadrant on the pump if there is one (the one with what looks like a throttle cable on it) if the engine revs then its a mech pump if not its EDC. The "throttle cable" on mine only operates the kick down for the auto box.

Peter

On or around Sat, 24 Jan 2004 22:50:32 -0000, "Peter Seddon" enlightened us thusly:

most obvious difference is an airflow meter in the air inlet pipe between the air cleaner and the turbo. If it just has a simple pipe, then it's not EDC.

Also no.4 injector has an electrical connection.

I get the impression there aren't very many EDC 300 TDis around, compared with the number of normal ones.

Single pipe straight through to the turbo -

With the bonnet up looking for this I have noticed a rattling coming from either the aircon pump or the tensioner that is directly underneath the aircon pump (narrow v-belt) I think it's an idler ? I dont know if it's a drive for some ancilliary though.

On or around Sun, 25 Jan 2004 13:42:07 -0000, "StaffBull" enlightened us thusly:

if it's non-EDC, then you tune it mechanically.

first, you need to service it properly, replace the air filter and diesel filter, check the valve clearances.

then check that when you press the throttle fully, the pump lever is against the stop on the pump, i.e. that the cable is not too slack.

then check that the engine revs to rated speed. Warm it up to normal running temperature, ideally by driving at least 5 miles. Having made sure the oil is topped up, and floor the throttle in neutral, see what speed the engine stabilises at. Book value is 4600.

now you need to do your own version of the MOT smoke test:

warm the engine up as before (unless it's warm already). Floor the throttle, wait 'til it gets to max revs and lift off. Repeat several times, allowing it to come back to idle in between. Watch the exhaust for smoke. anything more than a very brief puff of not-too-black smoke is too much.

If there's no smoke and the thing feels gutless on the road, you can tweak it up a bit.

firstly, you can set the no-load max speed to about 5000. This isan;t so that you can run it at 5000 rpm on the road, but it will affect the mid-range response.

You can also turn up the fuelling. Looking from the "back" of the pump, you have the 4 injector pipes in a square pattern. Above and to the right of these is the fuelling adjuster, which will have a black plastic seal on it (unless someone's already been at it :-)) - remove this and you find a 13mm nut. The adjuster has a 6mm hex end on it. Loosen the locknut, holding the adjuster still with a spanner, then turn the adjuster in for more fuel, out for less. Turn it no more than 1/4 turn at a time, it's very sensitive. Hold it still and retighten the locknut, repeat the smoke test as above.

That's about as far as I'd go without specialised equipment. Further tuning requires turning up the boost, fitting a large intercooler, and it also requires knowing what you're doing, or you end up with a fried engine instead.