The first symptom you mention, the brakes killing the radio, raises the big red flag for a bad engine-to-chassis ground. (The others sound like it, too -especially the wiper thing - but some could be a number of things.) I'm not familiar with the '91 Integra, but typical Honda practice is a braided wire from the front of the valve cover to the frame in front of the radiator. Wherever it is, find your engine ground wire and clean/tighten the connection at each end... then see how it works.
Does anyone know when the 2006 MDX's come out? I was interested in leasing a new MDX. Should I wait for the new models? Any changes anticipated? or should I just go with a '05 left over?
"Jafir Elkurd" wrote: > No scanner should be needed. Turn the ingnition switch on > (but don't > start the car). There is an LED on the transmission computer > under the > passenger's seat. Count the blinks. > > > Thanks for your help. I will have to try autozone. One of > the trans > > shops told me they tried to hook up a scanner but were'nt > able to. > > They said that there was a severe power drain and they were > not able > > to pull any codes. Who knows. One step at a time I guess. > Thanks again
Got only one blink. I did notice that the cooling fans kept turning on and off. Could this be an ecu problem? Maybe the AT computer? Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
Do you know which one that is upper or lower? Also I read an owners manual and they said that 7 quarts for the whole transmission. I?m asumming that includes the converter. I only put in 5 could that also be the problem? I read in other forums that it could be the speed sensor. Do you have any ideas what the two sensors located on the transmission are for? Is there a way to check the solenoids themselves? Again thanks for your help. I guess I just don?t know where to start first on this car.
Hello, I have a 1989 sterling 827SL which has a acura legend engine. The car stopped while I was driveing. I checked for spark out of coil using a spark tester. with the first crank of the engin I get only one spark and then there is no spark after that. If I turn the ignition switch off and repeat the process, I get one weak spart out of the coil and then nothing. I checked the resistance of the coil and it is within spec. the ECU flashes 15 times indicating a igniter problem according to the code. I replaced the coil, the distributer, and the igniter and I saw no change in the spark. Battery voltage is present to th ecoil and the igniter. If I disconnect the igniter connector and turn the ignition switch on, the CHECK ENGINE warning light will stay on, but if I connect the igniter connector back on, the and turn th eignition on the CHECK ENGINE warning light will go OFF after 2 seconds. The troubleshooting steps tells me the CHECK ENGINE warning light should flash ON and OFF during cranking of the engine, this is not happening. Please help.
my battery light in my integra keeps coming on. At first i thought it was the battery not being able to keep a charge, so i replaced the battery. Now with the new battery in there it still comes on and i dont think it will hold a charge anymore. I just put it in there right now and let it run for a few minutes and the light came on. What do you think it is??
Sterling wrote in news:1_590481 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:
Under normal conditions, the Check Engine light should illuminate solidly for TWO seconds when the key is turned to START. During this two seconds, the fuel pump will run, then the pump and light will simultaneously turn off.
It is distressingly easy to damage the coil by failing to provide it with a good path to ground through its secondary connector (the one that leads to the rotor). You can effect this by cranking the engine with the distributor cap off, wires disconnected, or using aftermarket plug wires without the correct resistance.
Using aftermarket plug wires with insufficient resistance will damage the RF capacitor in the rotor, and then wreck the coil soon afterwards.
That code 15 you see only means the ECU is not seeing current when it attempts to ground the white igniter wire. It DOES NOT necessarily indicate a problem with the igniter itself. Code 15 can be set if there is a corroded or broken white wire between the igniter and the ECU.
Check that white wire. It supplies the ground to ECU for both the igniter and the coil. If it and ALL its connectors are OK, including the one inside the distributor, then I suspect you have damaged your new coil.
Replace the coil with a new one, and also replace the rotor, distributor cap and wires with brand-new OEM, or aftermarket with the correct resistances. DO NOT attempt to crank the engine until everything has been replaced and reconnected.
Also make certain that the plug gaps are reasonably correct. Very excessively worn plugs can increase secondary voltage to the point of damaging the coil.
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If you have a voltmeter across the battery, you should see about 14.5V with the car running. If you don't, the battery is not being charged. It could be a slipping belt, dirty battery contacts (including those from the battery to ground or engine to ground) or the alternator.
"kriberwalker" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
Does it flicker, go on and off? Did it start out flickering then eventually go solid?
If so, it's the alternator brushes. Cheap fix. New brush holder is $20 at the dealer. You can replace it without removing the alternator. I can give some tips.
If the light was, and is, on solid all the time, then listen to remco.
"Jim Yanik2" wrote: > Rachemon wrote in > news:1_582615 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com: > > > Hi everybody, > > I am wanting to put Greddy headers in my Acura Integra GS > Non VTEC and > > was wondering if the difference in VTEC or not would affect > the type > > headers. So, basically is there a difference in VTEC GSR > Greddy > > headers and Non VTEC GS headers? > > > > In the JC Whitney Sport Compact catalog,DC Headers lists > diferent headers > for the 94-01 GS and 94-99 GSR ,but the same one for 92-93 GS > and GSR. > > A quick glance at the first site Google turned up shows > different Greddy > headers for the 94-99 GS and GSR models. > (doesn't anyone do Google-seraches first anyomre?) > > -- > Jim Yanik > jyanik > at > kua.net
I understand that in all those sites that it is placed under a different name, I am asking if there is an actual material difference or not, and if so what are the differences
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