Rachemon wrote in news:1_590661 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:
If they have different PART NUMBERS,they sure are not the same physical part,otherwise the manufacturer would only stock the single part number,amd list both models for the same part number.Different engines are going to have different cylinder heads that the headers attach to,with possibly(probably) different port configurations,thus the reason for different parts for each model. It will also matter if you have a SOHC or DOHC engine.
Maybe you should just go to a couple of import speed shops and ask your questions.
Not good -- That used to be the way to tell on the old cars to see if your alternator/generator has a problem, but not the thing to do with a newer car. You may now have done damage, but let's hope that you didn't.
Go to Sears, spring for a cheap digital voltmeter, learn how to use it (should takes 5 minutes). Set it to voltage, range 20V and measure across the battery with the car running.
I was told by the guys at the parts place to try the negative terminal. If i rev the car over 3600 rpm the light go's off. then i drop it down and it turns back on. I can get a cheap reman'd one for 50 thru a buddy, i will do that then if it isnt the brushes
I was told by the guys at the parts place to try the negative terminal. If i rev the car over 3600 rpm the light go's off. then i drop it down and it turns back on. I can get a cheap reman'd one for 50 thru a buddy, i will do that then if it isnt the brushes
Sometimes the money is more important than the labor (been there), but be aware rebuilt starters and alternators have a bad reputation for reliability, especially in Hondas. If money is pretty tight, go for the rebuilt. Otherwise a new Honda alternator is the way to go.
Found a car I might want. It's a 1990 L Coupe with a 5-speed. 180,000 miles. No rust, runs good, interior is good and paint is good. It's going to need a clutch, the AC does not work, and I can get it for aroud 2 grand. That sound like a good deal?
i have a 1999 acura 1.6 E.L. with over 200km and i am thinking about an engine swap. I would like to drop a 2.2 v-tec into the engine bay,will a honda 2.2litre engine bolt on to my existing tranny or is there some modifications that need to be done,is that the only engine i could use without any major mods...ANY info on this topic would be grately appreciated!
I have a 89 Coupe. I'm not aware of any radio that can accomodate the second set of controls on the dash. Couldn't find a radio other than an original Acura one that would work with that.
The trans only takes 3.3 quarts on a fluid change. I do mine every 35000 miles. Drain out the 5 quarts you put in and put in 3 quarts and you will be OK.
As far as the trans not working and the engine not running correct after the trans was replaced, has this been resolved?
"Marvelousmarv" wrote: > hello, i was wondering if anybody knows how to turn off the > "maintenance > light" in the gauge? Its been on but the problem has been > fixed. Thanks
It depends on what kind of acura you have. What year and model?
"TeGGeR®" wrote: > Sterling wrote in > news:1_590481 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com: > > > Hello, I have a 1989 sterling 827SL which has a acura legend > engine. > > The car stopped while I was driveing. I checked for spark > out of coil > > using a spark tester. with the first crank of the engin I > get only one > > spark and then there is no spark after that. If I turn the > ignition > > switch off and repeat the process, I get one weak spart out > of the > > coil and then nothing. I checked the resistance of the coil > and it is > > within spec. the ECU flashes 15 times indicating a igniter > problem > > according to the code. I replaced the coil, the distributer, > and the > > igniter and I saw no change in the spark. Battery voltage is > present > > to th ecoil and the igniter. If I disconnect the igniter > connector and > > turn the ignition switch on, the CHECK ENGINE warning light > will stay > > on, but if I connect the igniter connector back on, the and > turn th > > eignition on the CHECK ENGINE warning light will go OFF > after 2 > > seconds. The troubleshooting steps tells me the CHECK ENGINE > warning > > light should flash ON and OFF during cranking of the engine, > this is > > not happening. Please help. > > > > Under normal conditions, the Check Engine light should > illuminate solidly > for TWO seconds when the key is turned to START. During this > two seconds, > the fuel pump will run, then the pump and light will > simultaneously turn > off. > > It is distressingly easy to damage the coil by failing to > provide it with a > good path to ground through its secondary connector (the one > that leads to > the rotor). You can effect this by cranking the engine with > the distributor > cap off, wires disconnected, or using aftermarket plug wires > without the > correct resistance. > > Using aftermarket plug wires with insufficient resistance will > damage the > RF capacitor in the rotor, and then wreck the coil soon > afterwards. > > That code 15 you see only means the ECU is not seeing current > when it > attempts to ground the white igniter wire. It DOES NOT > necessarily indicate > a problem with the igniter itself. Code 15 can be set if there > is a > corroded or broken white wire between the igniter and the ECU. > > Check that white wire. It supplies the ground to ECU for both > the igniter > and the coil. If it and ALL its connectors are OK, including > the one inside > the distributor, then I suspect you have damaged your new > coil. > > Replace the coil with a new one, and also replace the rotor, > distributor > cap and wires with brand-new OEM, or aftermarket with the > correct > resistances. DO NOT attempt to crank the engine until > everything has been > replaced and reconnected. > > Also make certain that the plug gaps are reasonably correct. > Very > excessively worn plugs can increase secondary voltage to the > point of > damaging the coil. > > Please report back here. Feedback is necessary for the > functioning of > Usenet. > > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ >
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The code 15 error is gone. I check for good ground path and check the resistance of the spark plug wire set, they are all within the spek, it has a new totor and disributer cap. there is no short in in all the wire in the ignition circuit. I replaced the coil with a new one and still have the same one spark problem. I think as the ignition is turned ON the ECU will see the crank angle senor, the crank angle sensor wires are directly connected to the ECU. The two wire from the disributer also directly connected to the distributer. the 12 volt and GND are present at the primery coil and to the igniter, there is good continuity between the blue/red wire going from ECU to the igniter. there is a single blue wire going between the igniter and the primery coil which Idon?t know what it should mesure. so this is a close loop circuit for the ignition. The only thing Ihave not changed is the crank angle sensor. what do youthink? thanks
Just finished flushing radiator and bled system. Problem with bleeding system is that steam just comes out of the bled screw. Not a steady stream. So I had to disconnect the upper radiator hose and pour antifreeze in. Then it seems OK, steady stream does come out with occasional spurts or air. Now my car is rough at idle...it's rough when the engine is warm and when the engine is cold. Checked for vacuum leak but could not find one.
Anyone know what could be causing this? 92 Integra GS.
"miyan8r" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
I saw some info in a Honda Tuning Magazine awhile back about a company that makes the custom motor mounts and other pieces needed for such swaps.I can't remember the name of the company,though.The mag had an article about the new K-series motors and swappping them into another car.
I think you will find ads for them in some of the import tuner magazines. They can tell you what fits with what,and what you will need.
I also think the K20 motors are reversed from the earlier B or D-series motors,so you need a lot of extra stuff for the swap,and you will need a new ECU and wiring harness. Hondata,IIRC,makes a programmable K20 replacement ECU.
Sterling wrote in news:1_591444 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:
Somebody from there may know what the ECU uses for ignition dwell.
(Note to non-British readers: The Sterling 827 is basically an Accord with a 2.7L engine.)
The ECU uses the crank angle sensor to determine if the engine is turning or not. The TDC sensor is used for ignition timing at startup.
You are suggesting that a faulty crank angle sensor may cause dwell time to be too short. Too short of a dwell time would result in a weak or non- existent spark. It sounds plausible...but I don't know what the ECU's input for dwell is, and it does not explain your "one spark" phenomenon.
However, a problem with the CRANK, TDC or CYL sensors circuits are /supposed/ to set a 4, 8, or 9 error code.
There are two connectors at the igniter besides the white one to the ECU. Unplug them. Both should have battery voltage with the ignition ON.
You need to be 100% certain that that the ignition switch and battery feeds to the igniter, and the white wire to the ECU, are sound all the way. Since you live in Britain, the probability of corrosion somewhewre is very high.
I don't see that you've actually done anything with the igniter itself, though. Have a read through this page, from a countryman of yours:
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