92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

I had an '84 Chrysler 600ES - essentially a LeBaron - with the Mitsubishi

2.6. It was a terrible car. The windows didn't fall down, but the driver's window jammed every few months. Far, far worse was the Mitsubishi power train... don't get me started. The chassis was no blessing, either. I spent an entire day tracking down a wiring short in the lights to find it was a wire in the passenger door that had been banging against a metal edge until it cut through the insulation. The headliner started to fall nearly the day the warranty expired. The CV boots lasted nearly 4 years, so I guess I shouldn't complain much. But I traded the car and got nearly nothing for it when it was 6 years old and needed a new timing chain. Step 1: remove engine. The clearance in the car was not enough to remove the timing chain cover, and remounting the engine required a special alignment jig to prevent destroying the torque converter from misalignment (that happened to a friend's 600). It was obviously designed by people who wanted it to sell and didn't care what the ownership experience was after that.

Maybe they have changed their ways, but I'd be a fool to take the chance.

Mike

"Hello" wrote in news:wEWke.1478366$6l.1402543@pd7tw2no:

More definition of rough idle needed:

1) Steady roughness, as though idle were too low? 2) Idle irregularly rough, then smooth,? 3) Idle speed irregularly fluctuates up and down?

I'm a bit puzzled why you had no success getting air out of your system with the bleed screw. I drain and fill my '91's cooling system every year, and have done so for 12 years. Never a problem of any kind.

I wonder if you have a bad head gasket. When you drive it, do you see bubbles in the resrvoir? Does the reservoir level climb, then not go back down again when the car cools off?

Does the temperature gauge ever climb higher than 2/3 of the way? Does it never get to 2/3?

Do you have an aftermarket thermostat?

Or maybe they just last longer than Honduhs.

If my previous Chrysler products actually needed replacement... I would!! (Actually, I'd buy a Magnum- I like the styling better).

Uh. Yeah. Maybe the price of tea in China is up this week... or not.

My 2002 TL wouldn't start at lunch time this afternoon. It is just 3.5 years old and nearly 49000 miles on it. I am surprised if battery dies that early. When I open the hood and see, battery indicator is bright green. Please if anyone has any idea, let me know. I was just thinking that original battery should last min. of 5 years.

Thanks SGoura

Depends on your climate and conditions. I'm routinely told that a new battery won't last much beyond two or three years here in the Phoenix, AZ area.

Wait, wait, wait... You're telling me that you're considering buying another car from the same company that made you rebuild a whole transmission twice in 11 years? I drive a 1994 Civic DX, which I drive like I stole it. It has 188,000 miles and still has the original clutch, shocks, springs, and drums. I only just recently had to replace the radiator for $100. The most money I ever spent on a repair was $385 to replace the A/C compressor. If my Civic gave me half the trouble your Concord did, I would never buy a Honda again. Think about it.

Nate

hi there, I have a 2000 Integra GSR but i lost my drivers manual. My "maintenance light" in my guage is on, but the problem has been fixed. I tried dismantling my battery's negative plug but the light remains on. I heard there is a button under my steering wheel i could press but i tried so hard to find it but i couldn't. Please help

"rickylee8685" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

I must post this at least once a week.

"Sterling" wrote: > The code 15 error is gone. I check for good ground path and > check the resistance of the spark plug wire set, they are all > within the spek, it has a new totor and disributer cap. there > is no short in in all the wire in the ignition circuit. I > replaced the coil with a new one and still have the same one > spark problem. I think as the ignition is turned ON the ECU > will see the crank angle senor, the crank angle sensor wires > are directly connected to the ECU. The two wire from the > disributer also directly connected to the distributer. the 12 > volt and GND are present at the primery coil and to the > igniter, there is good continuity between the blue/red wire > going from ECU to the igniter. there is a single blue wire > going between the igniter and the primery coil which Idon't > know what it should mesure. so this is a close loop circuit > for the ignition. The only thing Ihave not changed is the > crank angle sensor. what do youthink? thanks

Here is what found out so far.

1 ? The two wire from distributor is connected directly to the ECU with good continuity and no short

2 ? There is GND and +12 voltage present to the igniter and the coil primary.

3 ? There is good continuity between the ECU and the igniter via the blu/red wire 4 ? The crank angle sensor is directly connected to the ECU. I don?t know how to test this one. 5 - There is good continuity on the single blue wire from coil primary to the igniter. I don?t know what is the reason for this wire.

So I am guessing that the distributor sends a signal to ECU and the ECU looks at both signal from the crank angel sensor and the distributor before it can decide to send a signal to igniter via the red/blu wire and if everything is well then the igniter releases the signal via that single blue were to the primary coil. Am I even close in my understanding of this circuit?

This cover all the wiring in the ignition circuit which includes, distributor, ECU, Igniter, coil, crank angle sensor,. So what am I missing? After disconnecting the battery the code 15 error disappeared and did not come back, it would show up only if I disconnect the igniter 4P connector. Someone suggested to use a NOID light to check for Injector pulse. I am still dead in the water. Thanks for your help.

"Doug Holtz2" wrote: > The trans only takes 3.3 quarts on a fluid change. I do mine > every 35000 > miles. Drain out the 5 quarts you put in and put in 3 quarts > and you will > be OK. > > As far as the trans not working and the engine not running > correct after the > trans was replaced, has this been resolved? > > Doug > > "suemoma" wrote in message > news:1_589909 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com... > > "Jafir Elkurd" wrote: >  > > One blink is the code for the converter lockup > solenoid. >  > >

I cahnged the trans fluid to honda atf and I also cheched the solenoids. Both sets I had on ther did not work. I took the used ones from the other transmission and they worked ok. One set(upper) didn?t sound that strong though. I test drove the car and still the same problem exists. Any suggestions??

Thanx for your response TeGGeR:

Unfortunately it's too late for any cheap solution....The head gasket is blown. I'm gettin my motor swapped out with a used motor (115 KM, 200 compression). It's gonna cost me over $2000 CAN.

Wish me luck.

When I lived in Phoenix I never got one to last more than 2 summers. I've been in Flagstaff 4 years and haven't replaced a battery yet!

The green eye isn't a positive indicator of battery condition. Any chain store that sells batteries will test it for free, and they are usually honest about it. I think the battery is toast.

Mike

"TeGGeR®" wrote in news:Xns9662E1115991Ategger@207.14.113.17:

That and the 'main relay' data. Google must be underused,or unknown to these folks.

After a long passage of time and much dithering, I've finally finished two big updates.

1) New section on igniter function 2) Coil failure Any critical advice is welcome. I'm not an electronics engineer, so there are surely mistakes somewhere.

Sterling wrote in news:1_591733 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

Unplug the 8-pin round connector from the distributor. According to my manual, there are six pins arranged in a 2x3 grid. The two middle ones are for the CYL/TDC/CRANK sensors. There ought to be 350 to 700 ohms between those two wires. Also check that there is continuity to ground at each of the two individually.

Which side of the primary? If the plus side, that's the trigger (old SW terminal for Kettering points). If the negative, that's the side that carries the coil charging current.

All the ECU does is ground the igniter's white wire. Nothing else. What inputs it uses to determine when--and for how long--to ground that white wire, that's up for some debate.

Take a look at this new page. Maybe it'll help.

Maybe look at these too:

Good job, John. Thanks!

"Remco" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Thanks.

Thanks are also owed to all those (including you) who helped by supplying much valuable information.

Tegger, Thanks again for your help. I just wanted to let you know that I received a letter from Honda and the title of the recall notice was: Ignition key is removable with the shift lever out of Park

I took my Honda to the local Honda dealership and they installed the following as per the service report:

1 06351-S84-000 KIT, LEVER (A)

I don't know whether the first number 1 is part of the part number or means that only one kit was installed. I hope this helps. I have not yet had a chance to revisit your web site.

The only thing I saw wrong was the 5 qts of trans fluid. If you got it to run down the street you would undoubtedly damage the trans from the excess fluid.

I don't know anything about replacing solenoids.

Doug