Re: Weber Carb Revisited

I don't know the Weber idle control.

> >'Most' Idle controls I am familiar with just open the throttle butterfly >plate. This won't dump gas. What does yours do, is it a jet or >something? >Someone with a Weber can take over from here, I am out of ideas. > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

I've got a Weber sitting in my shed, waiting on time for install - idle is just a screw against the butterfly linkage - are you maybe confusing the idle speed screw with the rich/lean screws? If you are talking about the screw on the side of the carb, where the throttle linkage is connected (where you can give the car gas by hand under the hood) turn it until you are happy with the idle, that's what it's there for. The linkage could be just a little bent, and need a little more screw in than normal. If they were all the same, wouldn't be a screw there! :) Tookie - Denham Springs, LA

88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10s
Reply to
Tookie
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Hey Sleestak,

I have had trouble with my Weber in the past also. Did you buy yours new or used? I had to rebuild mine(bought used) before I had mine running right. Dirty passages caused my problems.

When you set up the idle speed, make sure the vacuum secondary is disconnected from the carb and distributor and plugged on both. Then set the idle to 450-500rpm. It should fall into the 700-900 rpm range with the vac hoses hooked up.

For those who want to check on the Weber design, please read the install/setup instruction on Weber's site for more info.

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Luck, Brian

Reply to
Bulletsnbrains

Thanks for the info Brian. I bought this carb new from

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I'll try setting it up with the vacs plugged. btw, how far in do you run your idle speed screw?

Thanks again.

Reply to
Sleestak

Yeah, that's kinda thought. Oh well, I'm going to run it with a high enough idle and just live with it!

Thanks.

Reply to
Sleestak

You are worrying too much about what some $5.00 per hour sales drone told you...

If you read the link above it tells you how to set up the carb.

I warns that the idle will be slow like a tractor at the 'base line' setting of 1.5 turns in on the idle speed screw and you are to turn this screw 'after' setting up the mix screw to get it up to 7 to 900 rpm for a stable idle.

No 2 engines will have the same setting on the idle speed screw or they wouldn't need a screw there to start with.

I see the identical carbs set up with wildly varying screw settings. These settings change after a carb kit too.

That above site also tells you what jet size you need according to where your mix screw sets.

This setting of the mix screw makes a radical difference in the idle speed screw setting.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

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Thanks again Mike. I think you are absolutly correct, and I am going to stop worrying about this idle screw business. Now for more important matters, need to pick a gear ratio and lockers for the axles... 33x12.5 Dana44 rear, Dana 30 front, 258, t-5. Thinking of a Powertrax no-slip for the rear, but can't decide on the front -- with 4.56 gears.

Reply to
Sleestak

My Weber is happy at 500 to 600 RPM. I can idle it up higher or down lower using the screw. Webers don't light high supply pressure. Some have had good luck with pressure regulators. This must be one for around 4 psi. If you use a large range one and turned down to this low pressure you'll kill the flow also and starve for gas. I put on an electric fuel pump of this pressure rating and everything is groovy. Another cool trick if your installed on a one barrel manifold is to turn the carb 90 degrees (bowl toward the driver's side fender). With a little float tweeking mine will not stumble or load up unless it is rolling onto it's side (don't ask). It also won't flood going directly up hill. I hope this helps.

Reply to
cj573cj5

Thanks for the info. I am using the stock fuel pump and the k551 32/36 kit. I can get the idle up plenty high by just cranking the idle screw in. I need to check the fuel pressure anyway. Its running really good at the moment, so perhaps I should just leave well enough alone. :)

Reply to
Sleestak

I can get the idle up plenty high by just cranking the idle screw in. I need to check the fuel pressure anyway. Its running really good at the moment, so perhaps I should just leave well enough alone. :)>

I put one of these on my '76 CJ5 232, using a 2 bbl manifold from a 258, rather than the 1 bbl adapter. Runs like a top. It's critical you follow Redline-Weber's setup instructions to the letter when adjusting the base idle.

Reply to
Jerry McG

Jerry, thanks for the note. I've followed the instructions to the letter, and with the idle speed screw at no more than 1 1/2 turns in once it hits the linkage, the idle is like 350-400 rpms. I have the idle mix set just right, and I have to turn the idle speed screw to about 3 turns to get the idle up to 650. The mix screw, with the stock 75 idle jet, winds up at 2

1/2 turns -- right at spec, set to lean best. I have no vacuum leaks, and the rest of the ignition system/fuel system is tweaked just right. So I'm going to live with the speed screw in 3 turns. I have tried 80 and 85 jets. With the larger jets, the mix screw gets good at less turns out from base, 1 1/2 turns for the 85 for example, but the speed screw still has to be turned in 3 turns or so to get a decent idle. I talked to a guy at carbs.net and he said just turn the idle screw in unitl I'm happy, and that it won't hurt anything. The carb and engine are running great with the idle screw set at 3 turns, so I'm not complaining about performance. I just got concerned when the weber tech support guy told me that running the speed screw in at more than 1 1/2 turns would dump gas into the crank case and destroy the engine.
Reply to
Sleestak
< I talked to a guy at carbs.net and he said just turn the idle screw in unitl I'm happy, and that it won't hurt anything. >

The carb and engine are running great with the

LOL! ;-)

Redline-Weber's instructions are meant to get you to a baseline with the idle mixture screws, you can than set the idle spee screw where ever you want it. As a check, you may want to take tit to a shop that can check the exhaust CO readings.

Reply to
Jerry McG
I

Don't worry about it, if that was true then running the engine at partial throttle in traffic would do it too - after all, the screw is doing the same thing you do with the gas pedal. Tookie - Denham Springs, LA

88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10s
Reply to
Tookie

The screw was not more than 1.75 to2 turns in from the contact with the stop lever. Meaning only an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn was added from the initial setup.

Brian

Reply to
Bulletsnbrains

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