YJ Windshield Hinges

I'm replacing my windshield hinges. I got the torx bolts out for the top portion of the hinge. And replace them with socket cap bolts

For the bottom portion of the hinge I know there are bolts holding the torx nuts on behind teh dash. The sad part is I didn't know this before I tried to remove the torx bolts and now a few are FUBAR.

I.m going to drill them out. Does any one know if the holes for the bolts in the body are threaded? Or are the lower hinge bolts held in just by the nut behind the dash?

Your can just drill off the bolt heads with a 3/8" I think it is and punch them out usually. The sealer used on the nut needs torch heat to release the bolt so you can't usually just unscrew the suckers.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

Thanks. Weather permitting I'm doing it this weekend

I had to put in some of those bolts because they were messed up by the previous owner. The holes were not threaded, the bolts just thread into the nuts.

Had to drill one out. At one point the bolt started spinning instead of getting drilled and I had to pry with a screwdriver between the bolt head and the hinge hole to keep it from spinning. One hand for the drill and one for the screwdriver, it was fun...

The other technique I had to use on a door bolt was to use a punch to turn the bolt by hitting it with a hammer. First punch straight in to get a good deep hole and then angle the punch to allow turning the bolt. It worked very well.

Well I drilled out the 8 lower hinge bolts. Also had to drill out 4 of the upper hinge bolts and replaced the hinges. While I was at it I pulled the windsheild and painted it, new cowl seal, new front speakers and sanded and painted underneath where the windshield sits..I under estimated the amount of drill bits I needed. I also learned that the good quality bits last longer and drill better if oiled every 15 secs or so and by not using the highest speed. Just use the speed that makes the shavings curl put when drilling.

Good quality bit, SLOW speed, LOTS of pressure, some lube.

Most portable drills are way too fast for drilling steel. I have an old aluminum case Black and Decker that turns 200 rpm. I set that up with a

2x4 through the 'D' handle for leverage and it just chugs through.

I just replaces my windshield frame on my 87. Had to drill and re-tap every thing . Spent 6 hours on a Saturday . But the nice thing is every thing is new. And now it gets to sit in the garage all winter to keep the salt off. Plus gave her a new paint job while i was at it. Should be good for anouther 21 years.

Later Mike

Did you put a thread locker on the threads? The blue stuff is removeable and prevents the entrance of water, thus preventing rust. I use stainless bolts and thread locker for this application. The YJ is almost sixteen and I had no trouble removing the windshield hinge bolts in order to install roof rack hardware.

Yes i did. I'm hopeing to never have to mess with it again .But if i do it should be no proublem . Just bought a Grand Cherokee . So i've been thinking of building it up for my new trail rig.

Later Mike