A rumble in the jungle (not quite a front wheel probably!)

Timewise, if I take the prop shaft off, I might as well change the UJs at the same time.

It's not the handbrake, I backed that right off and it had no effect. I also think its getting worse.

The problem is going forwards and it's worse at around 30-40mph (sympathetic vibration).

I'll have a go at the job tomorrow night.

Cheers

Peter

notice........well,

Sometimes the joints can be seized or partly seized and you can't really tell unless you remove the prop but yours sounds like it's just badly worn. A 3/8" drive socket and a short extension is just as good as the special tool which is mentioned, crack them whilst the wheels are on the floor but jack up one wheel to reposition if you can't get the tool on squarely. I've never had the need to use anything but a good fitting ring spanner with an open ended spanner but it takes a bit longer.

Martin

On or around 31 Jul 2008 18:57:34 GMT, "Paul - xxx" enlightened us thusly:

personally, I think flickr sucks. takes ages to load and doesn't always work reliably. It's also now apparently a part of the BT-yahoo power-grab.

however, each to their own.

On or around Thu, 31 Jul 2008 12:42:40 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:

nifty. I've generally managed it with good quality ring spanners, but that looks a lot easier.

not sure about the LDV convoy. later ones at least have bigger flanges and bigger bolts.

On or around Thu, 31 Jul 2008 20:11:58 +0100, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

there's not much money tied up in a spare UJ or two, and they always manage to fail on friday afternoon when you're about to go away for the weekend.

I haven't had a problem with it, ever. Only issue for me is that as a free repository there's a limited number of folders available and it'd cost $25 a year to upgrade ... ;)

Never noticed as I'd always logged on with a Yahoo id i have ... ;)

One of these days I'll get a domain and hosting, but cba for now, I only need a small amount of 'stuff'. ;)

Good fitting ring spanners is the key, but even with them it's a ball-ache doing it on your back, outside, turning 1/4 turn at a time ... ;) Best I found was an old 3" long deep socket (rusty, back of shed find) that I ground the ends off as far as I dare so it fit easily between the yokes and grease nipple etc, but it didn't last long.

I found it much easier with the tool, so much so that you don't even need to rotate a wheel to get to the fourth nut, I can put a ratchet on it and even a power tool with a flexible shaft to spin them off when they're loose.

Speeded up the job no end.

I now replace them as pairs. Reasoning being that if one's gone it may well have vibrated enough to start the other off ... and I always have at least one new one sitting at home 'waiting' ... ;)

I have spare propshafts ready to go in the cupboard in my garage. I often sell them on an exchange basis to other people who need one in a hurry so they are an appreciating asset. But Murphy's law dictates that I always need one for my own vehicle about 2 hours after I have sold it.

LOL ... I know the feeling ... just sold a pair of front shocks on ebay which I'd bought 'cos I thought one was bent and sticking ... it wasn't, it was a broken spring which i was replacing anyway!

This might give you a tip.

Thanks for that.

Makes the job seem a little easier when you can see a few pictures!

Cheers

Peter

Looks about the right way to do it if you haven't got a press, but you need some soft jaws for the vice when you hold the body of the propshaft, otherwise you knock the paint off it and dent it.

notice........well,

Didn't think about it, I always have a few in stock, and spare props built up, but yes, in total agreement with that. :-)

Martin

It helps to show what's in there to someone who hasn't done it before. But it doesn't show the removal method. The yoke should be marked in relation to the prop so as not to upset the balance. The prop is better supported near the yoke at the weld. It may be just the picture but it looks to me like the nipple is leaning towards the yoke which makes it nigh impossible to grease without removing the prop, the hole is usually angled slightly away frum the centre line of the bearing axis. Also I usually keep the bearings to their own spigot, in case of any anomilies in manufacture.

Martin

Just didnt take any pics when i used them.

I think its just the picture.

They were grease able fine when back on the vehicle.

It was not held in the vice like the last image, only to take the picture.

That's the other real boon when changing UJ's ... a decent set of circlip pliers. Lots of faff without ... ;)

Nice pictures though. :-)

I should have added make sure the circlips are seated properly.

Martin