Araldite or super glue versus pop rivets

Restoration purists look away now.

I have never been keen on pop rivets, because they are devils to remove and because they are not exactly cosmetic.

On the other hand I do not like filler either, and in the case of my landie, it had been much used on top of varios bits of plating tacked on with the ubiquitos pop rivets.

I am contemplating using very thin aluminium (cut from food tins) and simply gluing this over some of the holes just to keep the weather out.

I reckon that this could easily be removed if I decide to go for something more substantial.

As for the load area, It's far too much trouble to replace the lot, let alone the hassle of sorting all those terminally seized bolts. Chequer plate is uneccesarily expensive, and varnished plywood will do just as well, and is not going to react with anything either.

Ahh but that is a fire hazard I here you saying, well so are the seats and wiring.

Now for a few oak beams for the chassis :) (not)

Reply to
Larry
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Some kit-cars use plywood as the base for the bulkhead. It's pretty good as a fire barrier, as long as you use a decent grade.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Twas Fri, 2 Apr 2004 15:06:55 +0100 when "Larry" put finger to keyboard producing:

I rather like pop rivets, drill a hole, pop, fixed.. drill the rivet off, apart come the two pieces.

not that easy with glue.

now where can I get oak outriggers?

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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mrniceATmrnice.me.uk
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110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

Glue is potentially much neater, and you can use a chisel to get the piece off later.

As for my drivers door, there is a plate pop riveted on in an attempt to give it some stability (it doesn't), I feel a good steel bracket held in with self tapping screws is going to be much more rigid.

However you would have thought the doors could have been designed in such a way that they derive the ridgidity from the design, which could have been executed entirely in aluminium. I guess though that the pressings would have been more expensive in the long run.

Reply to
Larry

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Mr.Nice. at snipped-for-privacy@-nospam-clara.co.uk wrote on 2/4/04 5:25 pm:

You could paint the bits you rivet on in different shades and have a patch work car.

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

Try to get some PENLOC 1:1 - this is now my fave adhesive - far, far better than anything else I've tried (and I've tried lots and lots!).

You won't get it off with a chisel though. Angle grinder maybe...

Reply to
Mother

(Note, I've snipped the previous text - Nikki)

Ah... a Cross Stitch Landie, how quaint - could you do a country cottage?

Reply to
Mother

For years my ex-army S2 had the various holes used for radio wiring blocked by little bits of aluminium held in place by contact cement (easier to remove than either super glue or araldite, and flexible so less likely to shake off) Problem with any glue is that to have any reliability the surfaces need to be absolutely clean and fit accurately. If it is done properly, Araldite can be structural, but in a home workshop environment is unlikely to be reliable enough for structural work. JD

Reply to
JD

One year whilst at the TT (isle of man road races) a mate had a mishap on his Storm and tore a large hole out his crank cover. Did a tempary fix using Aradite and a Coke can. Survived the rest of the TT, the ride home and a few weeks waiting for the part. Must have covered

1,000 miles plus and he wasn't taking it steady. After the new crank cover was fitted we tried to remove the can, never did manage!
Reply to
heckflosse

Run out of meths ?

;-)

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Pleeeeeease don't confuse me with Wayne Davies - I'm much better looking...

Reply to
Mother

Many years ago when I was serving at RAF Lossiemouth, they were decommissioning the old Shackleton airborne early warning aircraft. One of them was found to have about 2 feet of wing leading edge made from nothing but 'Shlitz' aluminium beer cans, riveted together and painted over. Some clown must have towed it into a hangar door during a U.S 'land-away' and hidden the crime.. very effectively as it turned out.

Reply to
Stuart Nuttall

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Mother at "@ {mother} @"@101fc.net wrote on 2/4/04 9:43 pm:

The programme I've just bought for converting pictures into cross stitch is better than the kits John Craddock sell. You use a photo of whatever you want the cross stitch of an it converts it into a chart...I might do a purple 101 if you ask me really nicely, after I've done Bruce's lightweight that is.

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

On or around Fri, 02 Apr 2004 21:41:49 +0100, Mother enlightened us thusly:

Having finally sourced some, I still like JB Weld Kwik (sic) which is pretty strong, sets in 4 minutes and full strength in 20[1], according to the packet. 2500 psi tensile strength, they say.

the slow one is stronger but takes 24 hours.

the JB weld website gives details of strength etc.

I did make a bit of an effort to find the Penloc 1:1, but it seemed a bit hens-teethy.

[1] but it's temperature dependent, I've known it take about 20 minutes to set in cold weather outdoors.
Reply to
Austin Shackles

You temptress! :-)

Reply to
Mother

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Mother at "@ {mother} @"@101fc.net wrote on 3/4/04 1:11 pm:

I know - I just can't help myself.

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

if you really want to stick ali sheet down get youreself a couple of tubes of polyurethane body sealant . some companies use PU to list it .

its made and sold by many maunfacturers , ie SIKAFLEX and also WURTH UK [or winzer wurth as theres 2 companies sharing same name almost] .

wurth also do some BOND AND SEAL sealant and also adhesive sealant for car bodies .

Reply to
M0bcg

in article snipped-for-privacy@mb-m21.aol.com, M0bcg at snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote on 3/4/04 9:05 pm:

caravan silicon sealer

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

Silicon isn't a good idea for cars, especially petrol ones. If petrol fumes get anywhere near it it turns into jelly.

PU is petrol resistant, it's also available as "Tiger Seal" in black, white or grey.

cheers

Dave W.

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Reply to
Dave White

in article 20040403234555709+ snipped-for-privacy@news.demon.co.uk, Dave White at davew snipped-for-privacy@yorkshireoffroadclub.net wrote on 3/4/04 11:45 pm:

you learn something new every day.

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

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