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Clutch gone AWOL

Marge let me down today - had to call the RAC.

Noticed going down Whiteladies Road the clutch was biting lower & lower. It recovered to near normal, until I got to the end of the road, then pedal all light and couldn't de-clutch. Tickover at the side of the road didn't restore it much.

Checked the reservoir: normal fluid level (i.e. plenty). When the RAC man arrived he bled the slave cylinder very slightly, and bingo, all worked again! No air noticed (neither heard nor seen in bleed), and plenty of fluid, so nothing getting in at the top. Topped up with about a tablespoon's worth (after the bleeding). I took her across town to Bedminster/Hartcliffe and left her outside Landrover Services (haven't got time to look at her tomorrow & need her back ASAP), and all was fine on the way over.

She had a new clutch a year ago (last Feb) when the TDi was put in (TD originally) and new master cylinder. The lines are in good order and no visible leaks.

I'm highly suspicious of the slave cylinder, but without any real reason to go on (not much else left really!).

Any thoughts, anyone?

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig
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If the hydraulic loss wasn't much I'd suspect the master. You can usually notice a difference if you apply gradual pressure the clutch doesn't disengage but stamping on it causes the seal to expand and it has more effect.

AJH

Reply to
AJH

Master cylinder leaks are usually linked also with a wet pedal as the fluid travels downhill.

My guess is the seals in the slave allowing air to be drawn in and not necessarily fluid to escape which does happen.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Everyone should watch for that tell-tale sign if it happens on the brake pedal. I had it once and a few days later the pedal went to the floor - no brakes (this was not a Landy). Luckily I was only slowing for a speed-bump and not a junction !!

I thought worn clutch slaves generally let air out, but not in, the clutch lever forces the piston back and the fluid up the line, it is not sucked back by the clutch pedal, so it should always be at positive pressure. In fact I have always thought the system was self- bleeding in that department. I used to have one that leaked fluid slowly, and then a long pedal would happen when the system needed topping up. I used to top it up, and then it would find a way on its own to get rid of any air bubbles.

Steve

Reply to
Cheshire Steve

In article , Lee_D writes

Could be! I can't go look now, as it's on t'other side of town, but the shaft of the pedal was glistening slightly. It used to squeak and I oiled it, so I didn't pay it much heed earlier assuming it was oil run off the hinge (or a wet toe of my boot). I should have wiped it and sniffed at the rag!

Could also be. The master cylinder is new-ish, so not as strong a suspect.

Thanks for the thoughts everyone. Hopefully I'll know tomorrow...

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

It will be a bit of crap in the master cykinder, the slight bleeding will have moved it. The oil on the pedal can easily be identified, see if it washes off with a small amount of water, if it does it's clutch fluid, if not it's the oil you put on it.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

In article , Oily writes

Well, Marge now has a new master cylinder, and the clutch now feels like it oughta, and the bite point is back nearer the top with some decent control to it.

Turns out the failing one was clean-ish (thought it was new-ish), and the liquid was indeed clutch/brake fluid, not oil. Of course it may have been changed before, but if not, 150k miles can't be too shabby.

Thanks all.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

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