Gearbox swap, advice required

I managed to remove the gearbox complete with transfer box from my 110 on my own using an engine crane in through the passenger door (after removing the seat box and floor panels). However I had already removed the engine, which allowed me to remove the bellhousing. Maybe that gave me an edge - it was 5 years ago, so I can't remember whether the bellhousing bolts are internal or external.

When I took it to the gearbox repair shop he was surprised to see it as a single lump - so it is clear that most people split the transfer box from the main gearbox as they remove it.

Two people should make it easier, but I reckon its better to lift it rather than dropping it down (which required the removal of the cross- member). It was a Santana box with standard transfer box, but it must be about the same size - and it is a very heavy lump - easily 100kg - two of us could barely lift it. Using an engine crane is the safer alternative to trying to man-handle it under the car in cramped conditions.

Of course there is a fair bit of work just getting all the seats and floor out due to corroded bolts, and thats before you start with the propshafts, mounting bolts and mating to the engine.

I rented the engine hoist for the removal, but have since bought one. Luckily I had a second Land Rover to pickup and collect the hoist - as it was pretty heavy itself.

Steve

It's freaking HEAVY!! Don't lay under it whilst working on the last couple of bolts ... you have been warned .. it'll squash you flatter than a Citroen with hydraulics failure.

I second the advice about taking it out from the top. I've recently swapped my 110 gearbox & Tbox TWICE (don't ask) in the last month - first time I did not take out the seatbox and lowered it - not easy at all, 2nd time I took out the seatbox and lifted them out using chain hoist, then out sideways through the door. Easy peasy if you take your time, make sure everything it well secured etc etc. I took of each box seperatly, it would be possible to take both out together, but it just gives you less room to do it, and of course double the wieght.

I also took off both front doors, a bit of a pain, but gave much easier access.

Remember to carfully support back end of engine before removing bellhousing bolts.. :-)

What I found really usefull was to jack up the front end, then place wooden blocks between the axle and the bump stops, then lower onto these blocks. Meant that front end was high and easy to get under, but not wobbling around as it does on axle stands, as it was still sitting on the wheels.

Andrew

Cheers folks, SCARY looks like after working hard all week on other folks cars it will be getting paid for. Really don;t care how much. I aint doing it. Most jobs I will do just fine, but the thought of working 7 days and maybe not getting it right dont appeal to me. Thanks tho fellas. Stu

On or around Wed, 15 Aug 2007 20:47:34 GMT, "tomtom" enlightened us thusly:

it's a big job but easier in a 110: take the floor, seats, tunnel and seatbox out...

you can then split the T-box off the main box and lift each bit out from above, not hard with 2 of you.

Timewise, if you've not done it before, I'd allow 2 full days.

And unless you know the clutch is nearly new, replace that at the same time, including the release bearing; also check the clutch release arm condition.

On or around Thu, 16 Aug 2007 01:16:56 -0700, "Andrew T." enlightened us thusly:

On my 110 with the ZF and BW T-box, it wouldn't come out in one lump - 's about an inch too long.

easier and safer to split 'em, though.